If you want to bring a new dynamic to your garden, then try planting pampas grass. This ornamental grass is popular in American gardens, even though it’s technically an invasive species.

Pampas grass produces thousands of seeds at the end of the growing season, and strong winds can carry the seeds over lengthy distances. Pampas grass germinates in a variety of climate conditions, and almost any soil mixture.

Once pampas grass establishes itself, it can take over the area within a season. However, prudent gardeners can keep pampas grass under control with some end-of-season maintenance. Both South Carolina and California list pampas grass as an invasive species, and it’s also in the global invasive-species database.

Pampas Grass Quick Facts

Growing Pampas Grass

Still, pampas grass is beautiful and complements other plants in your garden. The grass also makes a fantastic filler for areas of the garden that look sparse, such as around the pool or the corners of your yard.

All your pampas grass needs to thrive, is a sunny growing site, with fertile soil. We outlined a brief growing guide for pampas grass to give you an idea of the techniques used to manage these grasses in your yard.

It’s crucial for you to plant your grass in the early spring, as planting in the fall or winter may impede its growth the following summer season.

Starting with Seed

Unlike most other plants, growing pampas grass from seed is easy. All you need to do is select your variety, and then sow your seeds in the early springtime. Pick a spot in your yard that receives direct sunlight all day, and sow your seeds.

Don’t cover the seeds with soil, as the heat from the sunlight and a light watering are all the seeds need to germinate. We suggest that you give the soil a light raking before you sow your seeding. Raking the ground loosens the soil, providing aeration to the roots of the grass, allowing it to thrive.

However, if you live in an area with plenty of birds, you’ll need to cover the planting area with netting to stop the birds from eating your seeds. If you don’t have any netting, then you can start your seeds in pots or trays indoors and then transplant to the garden after it gets to an inch in height.

Starting your seeds indoors is also a good idea if you live in colder regions of the United States. Mix up a growing medium using sol and perlite in a 2:1 ratio.

By adding perlite to the soil, you get better drainage. Always ensure that your container has adequate drainage, and wet soil may cause root rot in your grass.

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• Pampas ornamental grass grows fairly fast, so is an ideal choice for filling in large, barren landscapes. It will also grow thick creating an effective privacy screen, wind break or sound barrier.
• Pampas ornamental grass grows fairly fast making it an ideal choice for filling in large, barren landscapes. Its long, graceful blades and delightfully fluffy pannicles (flower plumes) are beautiful. Unsurpassed for glorious texture and color in the landscape, this classic White Pampas Grass (Cortaderia Selloana) is the star of any garden it graces!
• It is also highly drought-resistant and, once established, never needs watering. It will grow in most soils with hardly any work. Low to no maintenance. You can shear ornamental grasses each winter so that new growth comes out clean in Spring. You can do this every other year or less often if you like.
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Choosing the Right Planting Site for Your Pampas Grass

When selecting the ideal spot in your yard for your pampas grass, you need to take into account the final height and width of the grass flowerbed you plant. Pampas grass grows wide and tall, and if you don’t account for the growth, it could result in the area looking cluttered.

Select an area of your yard that receives full sunlight throughout the day. Planting in shady areas is possible with pampas grass, but you need to be aware that the lack of sunlight will affect the final height of the grass, and some species might not flower without direct sunlight all day.

Avoid planting your pampas grass next to the driveway or the road. This grass grows tall and wide, and it may obstruct your view of the road and the driver’s view of your driveway. Don’t plant the grass near any air-conditioning units, as the blades of grass might end up caught in the machines fan.

Make sure that you keep the grass away for any areas of the yard where children play. Pampas grass looks beautiful when flowering, but the leaves have razor-sharp edges, and children might cut themselves if they try to pull on the grass or fall into the grass by mistake.

If you’re transplanting pampas grass, then dig a hole that’s the width and height of the plant’s root system. Place some mulch or fertilized potting soil in the hole, and then add the grass. Pampas grass doesn’t need lots of fertilizer to grow tall and healthy.

Use your hands to separate the root ball before planting, and gently pat down the soil around the roots after planting. Water the grass thoroughly to reduce transplant shock.

Caring for Your Pampas Grass

Always water your newly planted grass thoroughly after transplanting. The roots require plenty of moisture to recover from the stress of the transplant. Failing to water your pampas grass could stunt its growth, or cause it to die.

Ensure that you keep the soil uniformly moist. Push your finger an inch into the soil. If it feels moist, then your grass is fine. However, if it’s dry, it means that the roots aren’t getting the moisture they need.

During the first year after planting, fertilize your grass in the early spring, early summer, and at the beginning of the fall. After the first year of growth, cut back on your fertilizing protocol, and only fertilize the grass in the early spring.

It might take up to 3-years for your grass to establish itself and bloom. Every year, you’ll need to prune away old grass and trim the roots of grasses that are becoming wild and overgrowing in the planting site.

Dividing Pampas Grass

You can propagate your pampas grass in late August to early September before the winter rolls around. However, we recommend that you do your propagation in the early springtime, after the last frosts land on the ground. Check your local listing for frost dates in your area and plan accordingly.

Propagating in the early spring gives the pampas grass the entire growing season to grow a strong root system. Follow these steps when propagating your pampas grass.

• Cut the grass back to 1 to 2-feet in length until you can see the base of the plant.
• Examine the stems of the grass at the soil level.
• You should see that shoots are forming at the base.
• Using a sharp knife, cut away the new growth from the middle of the plant.
• Plant your new grass clumps at a similar depth to what they were used to with the mother plant.
• Water thoroughly to reduce transplant shock.
• Always make sure you wear gloves and a shirt, as you might cut yourself on the sharp edges of the grass.

Pests and Diseases Affecting Pampas Grass

Pampas grass is an invasive species. Therefore, it does not serve as a food source for any animals like deer and rabbits. Many insects and birds like to nest in the grass, so be careful when propagating in the early springtime.

Pampas grass does occasionally experience an infection with a fungus that shows up as spots. This fungus typically arrives during warm and rainy parts of the season. Use a general plant fungicide to treat the infection and restore your pampas grass to health.

Ornamental and Decorative Purposes

Pampas grass is popular as it creates an ornamental feature in your garden. This decorative grass produces large plumes of flowers that look attractive. Pampas grass is ideal for planting in the western states, as the plant is hardy and drought-resistant.

If you live close to the ocean, pampas grass is ideal for planting around your yard, as the salty air doesn’t damage the grass. Many hotels and guesthouses on the beach use pampas grass as a windbreak and for beach-front landscapes.

Pampas grass grows anywhere from 6 to 13-foot tall, and it spreads to a width of the same height in most cases. Use this grass to create privacy around your patio or pool, and plant it in the corners of your yard to give your garden a seamless look and feel.

Overwintering Pampas Grass

Pampas grass can survive the cold months of winter, and even snowfall provided that you prepare it for the winter season.

During the last days of fall, cut back any old foliage to make room for new growth the following season. We recommend long-handle loopers for trimming your pampas grass. Make sure you remove all of the flower stalks that are blooming, as the seeds may spread into your neighbor’s yard and start to grow wild.

Remove any stalks that are over 1-foot in height. Before you trim, use string to tie the plant together. This process helps to drain any excess water from the plant before cutting. If you live in a region of the United States, then you can overwinter your pampas grass without any hassle.

Spread mulch around the base of the plant and cover it with burlap to provide the grass with protection from the cold. Remove the burlap in the early springtime after the last frosts fall. Using this method, the roots of your pampas grass stay warm and dry during the wintertime, ensuring that your plant survives the season and thrives the following summer.

Varieties of Pampas Grass

Here are some popular varieties of pampas grass:

1. Cortaderia selloana ‘Pumila’: This dwarf variety of pampas grass is perfect for small gardens or areas with limited space. It grows to a height of 4-6 feet and a width of 3-4 feet, producing silvery-white plumes in late summer and early fall. ‘Pumila’ is a more compact option that still provides an impressive display.
2. Cortaderia selloana ‘Sunningdale Silver’: This variety is known for its tall, arching stems that can reach up to 10-13 feet in height. The silvery-white plumes emerge in late summer and can last well into winter. ‘Sunningdale Silver’ is an excellent choice for creating a focal point in a landscape or for providing privacy.
3. Cortaderia selloana ‘Pink Feather’: As the name suggests, this variety boasts stunning pink plumes that add a splash of color to any garden. ‘Pink Feather’ can grow up to 6-8 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide, making it a suitable option for medium-sized gardens or as a border plant.
4. Cortaderia selloana ‘Rosea’: Another pink variety, ‘Rosea’ produces plumes with a soft rose hue, offering a more delicate and subtle color compared to ‘Pink Feather.’ This variety can reach up to 8-10 feet in height and 6 feet in width, making it a striking addition to any landscape.
5. Cortaderia selloana ‘Patagonia’: This variety is known for its robust growth and thick, silver plumes. ‘Patagonia’ can grow up to 12-15 feet in height and 8-10 feet in width, making it ideal for creating a strong visual impact or for use as a windbreak.

Alternatives to Pampas Grass

Here are some alternatives to pampas grass that you can consider for your garden:

1. Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis): This ornamental grass has a similar appearance to pampas grass but is more manageable and less invasive. Maiden grass comes in various cultivars, offering different sizes and colors, and features elegant plumes that emerge in late summer.
2. Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora): Feather reed grass is a clump-forming, non-invasive ornamental grass that can reach heights of 3-5 feet. It produces feathery, purplish-green plumes in early summer, which turn golden brown as the season progresses.
3. Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides): Fountain grass is known for its graceful, arching habit and bottlebrush-like plumes that appear in late summer. This perennial grass can grow up to 3-5 feet tall and is available in various cultivars, including the popular ‘Hameln,’ which is a more compact variety.
4. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum): Native to North America, switchgrass is a tall, upright grass that can reach heights of 4-6 feet. It features airy, reddish-pink plumes in late summer and boasts impressive fall color in shades of yellow, orange, and red. Switchgrass is also drought-tolerant and adaptable to a variety of soil conditions.
5. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium): This native grass is ideal for those seeking a smaller, more compact option. Little bluestem typically grows to a height of 2-4 feet and features stunning blue-green foliage that turns coppery-red in the fall. This grass is drought-tolerant and perfect for naturalistic or prairie-style gardens.
6. Purple Moor Grass (Molinia caerulea): Purple moor grass is a clump-forming perennial that grows up to 3-5 feet tall. It produces delicate, purplish-green flower spikes that emerge in late summer and turn a golden brown color in the fall. This grass is suitable for mixed borders and provides an elegant, wispy appearance in the garden.
7. Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens): With its striking blue-gray foliage, blue oat grass offers a unique color contrast in the garden. This evergreen ornamental grass can reach heights of 2-3 feet and produces tall, oat-like seed heads in early summer. Blue oat grass is drought-tolerant and works well in rock gardens or as a border plant.

When selecting an alternative to pampas grass, consider the specific needs and conditions of your garden, such as available space, sunlight, and soil type. Many of these alternatives are non-invasive, easier to manage, and offer similar visual appeal to pampas grass while being more environmentally friendly.

Conclusion

Pampas grass is a beautiful and popular ornamental grass that can add a stunning dynamic to your garden.

Despite its invasive nature, with proper management and maintenance, it can be controlled and complement other plants in your garden. By following the guidelines outlined in this article, you can grow and care for pampas grass effectively.

Keep in mind the importance of selecting the right planting site, providing proper care, and being mindful of potential pests and diseases. With its attractive plumes and ability to create privacy, pampas grass can be a striking addition to your landscape, especially in coastal areas where it thrives in the salty air.

Pampas Grass FAQs

Is pampas grass easy to grow?

Yes, pampas grass is relatively easy to grow, as it can germinate in a variety of climate conditions and almost any soil mixture. Just ensure you provide it with full sunlight and fertile soil.

Is pampas grass a good idea?

Pampas grass can be a good idea for adding an ornamental feature to your garden, as it provides a dramatic look with its tall plumes. However, it is considered invasive, so proper care and maintenance are essential to keep it under control.

Does pampas grass come back every year?

Yes, pampas grass is a perennial plant, which means it comes back every year. It may take up to three years for the grass to establish itself and bloom fully.

Can pampas grass survive winter?

Yes, pampas grass can survive winter, especially if you take proper measures to protect it from the cold. Cut back the foliage and cover the base of the plant with mulch and burlap to help it withstand the winter months.

How long will pampas grass last?

Pampas grass is a long-lived plant and can last for many years if properly cared for. With appropriate maintenance, it can continue to grow and produce its characteristic plumes year after year.

What are the negative effects of pampas grass?

The primary negative effect of pampas grass is its invasive nature, which means it can spread quickly and take over an area if not managed properly. It’s listed as an invasive species in some regions, so it’s essential to keep it under control. Additionally, the leaves have razor-sharp edges, which can be hazardous, especially for children.

Is pampas grass toxic to humans?

Pampas grass is not considered toxic to humans. However, the sharp edges of its leaves can cause cuts and scratches if not handled carefully. It’s essential to wear gloves and protective clothing when working with pampas grass to avoid injury.

Sources & Further Reading

1. https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C983
2. https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/cortaderia-selloana/
3. https://www.southernliving.com/garden/grumpy-gardener/pampas-grass
4. https://www.nwcb.wa.gov/weeds/pampas-grass

The post Pampas Grass Guide: How to Plant & Care for “Cortaderia Selloana” appeared first on GardenBeast.

It might surprise you to learn that “the wandering Jew” isn’t a single plant, its name used to describe a collection of plants in the Tradescantia genus.

Many countries around the world view the wandering Jew as an invasive species. Therefore, you won’t find many of them as regular additions to gardens. However, the vine makes for an excellent indoor plant.

Quick Facts

Wandering Jew Plant Varieties

The wandering Jew refers to three different plants in the Tradescantia genus. The three varieties are the zebrina, fluminensis, and the pallida.

Tradescantia Zebrina

The zebrina is the most common of the three species, and it features dark-green foliage that contrasts against the brilliant-white three-petal flowers the plant produces.

As you can imagine, the plant also gets part of its name from the zebra-like foliage. The center of the leaf id has a creamy-white color, and the outer trimming of the leaves has a silver lining.

Tradescantia Fluminensis

This wandering Jew species features white flowers, and it’s a trendy indoor plant around the world. The species originates from the southeastern region of Brazil. It’s an evergreen perennial plant that flowers all-year-round and lasts for many years if the owner takes care of it correctly.

The oval-shaped foliage of the Fluminensis is green in color and has a glossy look. The leaves attach to fleshy stems, and the stem nodes quickly put roots down into the soil, allowing for the rapid spread and growth of the plant in ideal growing conditions.

When the plant flowers, it produces a set of flowers with three white petals. The flowers don’t bear any seeds, and they might also emerge in clusters. There are various sub-species of this plant as well, and some types, such as variegate, feature different leaf colors, such as yellow or cream streaks in the leaves.

The plant does best in USDA zones 9 to 12, as it loves the additional humidity in these regions as well. The wandering Jew doesn’t do well in colder climates, so stick to planting in the southern states.

The wandering Jew also prefers full sunlight during the day, and you’ll need to feed it a reasonable amount of water throughout the week. The plant doesn’t enjoy being dry for long periods.

Tradescantia Pallida

This variety originates in Mexico, and it’s the most attractive of the three Tradescantia genus. This wandering Jew produces long, pointy leaves that can reach lengths of 7-inches. The leaf will eventually turn a purple color, but the tips might remain red or green during the color transition.

There are visible segmentations on the stem of this wandering Jew, and it’s for this reason that many countries classify this plant as invasive.

The segments break easily, but they root readily, evolving into two plants with little care. Fortunately, for fans of the plant, it also makes it easy to grow the plants for cuttings as well.

Tradescantia pallida don’t like the cold, and it will die back in colder environments in the Northern states, especially if it grows outside. This wandering Jew produces small flowers that bloom in colors of pink, lavender, and white. The flowers feature three petals, and while they aren’t show-stopping, then do add a beautiful aesthetic to the plant.

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Natural Air Cleaners

One of the reasons why the wandering Jew is such a popular house plant is its natural air-cleaning properties. The wandering Jew is an excellent “air scrubber,” and it removes bacteria and VOCs from the air inside your home, exchanging it for fresh air that enhances your home.

Some research also shows that the wandering Jew can assist in soil remediation, as well. The plant can remove heavy metals from the soil, helping restore the root health of other plants in the same flowerbed or pot.

Caring for Your Wandering Jew Plant

All varieties of the wandering Jew are easy to care for, provided that you grow them in the right climate and conditions. As long as the plant receives regular watering and pruning, it will thrive, and you’ll also manage to control the growth as well.

If you plant in a sunny spot in your home, then you can expect your tradescantia to last for many seasons. It’s also important to note that the plant might not flower it in its first season. However, by the third year, you should see plenty of flowers that emerge in the summer months.

Sunlight

As mentioned, the wandering Jew prefers sunny planting locations. The plant prefers later afternoon sun to morning sun, but it does well in any sunny area around the home. The more light you give the plant, the more flowers it produces in the flowering season.

If your wandering Jew does not get sufficient sunlight, you’ll notice that the color of the leaves starts to fade. Move the plant to a sunny spot, and it should recover in less than a week.

Water

The wandering Jew enjoys a balanced moisture level in its soil. Don’t let the earth get too dry, as it might cause burning in the tips of the leaves. Likewise, the wandering Jew does not enjoy excessively wet soil either. The plant is susceptible to forming root rot if you “keep its feet wet.”

To check if it’s time to water your wandering Jew, push your finger about 1-inch into the soil. If it feels dry, then give your plant some water.

Soil

You must ensure you use a rich, loamy soil that drains well when planting your wandering Jew. When planting in a pot, make sure you add a layer of gravel at the bottom of the pot to enhance drainage. Add perlite to the soil to assist with drainage as well.

You can get away with using a standard potting mix when planting indoors, and other soil enhancements we recommend you add are the following.

• Coarse sand and perlite for drainage
• Humus or peat
• A light dusting of lime
• A few handfuls of rich organic compost

You want the soil to retain water but still allow optimal drainage.

Fertilizer

During the growing season, fertilize your wandering Jew plant using a liquid-based fertilizer product. Make sure that you dilute the fertilizer to 50-percent strength.

Strong concentrations can result in burning in the tips of the leaves of the plant. You can also add a granular slow-release fertilizer to the soil once a year at the start of spring.

Repotting

The wandering Jew grows quickly, and it might take over its pot in one or two seasons, depending on the size of the container. Therefore, you’ll need to pull up the plant and divide it from year-to-year, depending on its growth rate.

If you choose to re-pot your plant, make sure you use a pot that’s at least 50-percent larger than the old one. Line the pot with potting soil and a few handfuls of rich organic compost. Dig around the edges of the existing container to loosen the root ball. After loosening, pull the base of the plant to release it from the pot.

Move the plant to its new pot, and then fill with potting mix to cover the roots — Pat down the soil, and then water lightly.

Pruning

Wandering Jew plants require regular pruning. The plant grows quickly, and if you don’t prune, then it can overtake the pot fast. Pruning also helps the stem, from getting “leggy,” meaning that the plant starts to look bare at the base. Pruning keeps the plant healthy and growing at an optimal rate.

All; you need to do is prune back any stems and pinch the stem tips. The wandering Jew will then send out two new shoots from the pinched top, helping your plant spread out into a bush-like appearance.

Propagation

The wandering Jew is easy to propagate. This plant grows quickly in a variety of conditions, which is one of the reasons why most countries list it as invasive. You can propagate your cuttings after your pruning session, without much effort.

Remove all of the leaves but the top set after pruning the stem. Place the cutting in another smaller pot with moist potting soil. Leave the container in the sun, and you should find that the cutting roots in a month.

Pests

Being an indoor plant, the wandering Jew does not get much attention from pests. However, spider mites can be a problem for your plant if you don’t take care of it and watch for the presence of pests.

Spider mites are tiny spider-like bugs that form a web around the inside of the leaves of the plant. If left unmanaged and untreated, they might start to cause yellow spots in the foliage. The wandering Jew might also fail to flower in the summer months as well.

Diseases

Over-watering your wandering Jew plant can result in the onset of diseases like root rot. Ensure that you have a well-draining soil mix before planting your wandering Jew. Provided that you do everything you can to ensure your soil drains well, you should never have a problem with root rot in your wandering Jew plant.

Wandering Jew Plants FAQS

What is the best way to grow a Wandering Jew plant?

The best way to grow a Wandering Jew plant involves placing it in a location that gets plenty of sunlight, preferably late afternoon sun. You should use well-draining, loamy soil to plant it, and ensure a balanced moisture level by watering it regularly but not excessively. The plant also appreciates humidity and occasional fertilizing with a liquid-based fertilizer diluted to 50% strength during the growing season. Pruning should be done regularly to manage its growth.

Is Wandering Jew easy to grow?

A: Yes, Wandering Jew plants are generally easy to grow. They adapt well to various conditions and are fast-growing. They can be propagated easily from cuttings and require minimal maintenance beyond regular watering, pruning, and an occasional application of fertilizer. However, they do not tolerate cold climates very well.

Does wandering Jew like full sun or shade?

Wandering Jew plants prefer locations with full sunlight. They can tolerate some shade but too much shade can cause the color of the leaves to fade. More sunlight exposure generally leads to more flowers during the flowering season.

How often do you water Wandering Jew?

Wandering Jew plants should be watered regularly to maintain a balanced moisture level in the soil. However, the soil should not be allowed to become too dry or too wet. Overwatering can lead to root rot. A good way to check if it’s time to water is to push your finger about 1-inch into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water the plant.

Is Tradescantia Zebrina easy to grow?

Yes, Tradescantia Zebrina, a variety of Wandering Jew, is easy to grow. It requires similar care to other Wandering Jew varieties and is known for its adaptability and quick growth.

Does Tradescantia Zebrina need full sun?

Tradescantia Zebrina does best in a location with full sunlight. While it can tolerate some shade, insufficient sunlight can cause the leaves to lose their vibrant color. Like other Wandering Jew plants, the more light it gets, the more flowers it produces during its flowering season.

The post Wandering Jew Plants Guide: How to Grow & Care for “Tradescantia zebrina” appeared first on GardenBeast.

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma, also known as “Mini Monstera”, Philodendron/Monstera “Ginny”, or Philodendron “Piccolo”, is a unique species of plants originating from Malaysia and Southern Thailand. Although these plants are part of the Araceae family, they belong to an independent genus known as Rhaphidophora.

The Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma plant was first discovered in 1893 by a British botanist named Joseph Dalton Hooker. The species’ scientific name has the following possible meaning: firstly, the word “Rhaphidophora”, which could refer to the oxalates found in the plant’s center that are “needle-like”, and secondly, the term “Tetrasperma”, which describes the four-sided seeds that are produced by the plant in the autumn season.

Considering their reputation as small-sized climbers, these Mini Monsteras can be great statement houseplants if proper conditions are provided. These ornamental plants are suitable both indoors, especially if you have a large living room or if you love Jungalow style, and outdoors, placed in the alley or at the front door.

Quick Facts

Record Selling Plant!

In August 2020, a Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma, an  Extremely rare variegated rhaphidophora tetrasperma was sold in New Zealand for over $8000!

This was a rare example with “4 leaves with stunning yellow variegation on every leaf”. You can check out the auction page here.

Ruby Topzand, a spokeswoman for Trade Me, said the record before this for the most expensive houseplant ever sold was previously held by a reverse variegated hoya that went for NZ$6,500 in early August.

About Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma

• Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma plants are often confused with other families and species including Monstera Deliciosa (looking like a miniature version of it), Epipremnum Pinnatum (can both have pinnate foliage), and Philodendron species of plants.
• Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma thrives in bright and indirect light, as too much direct sunlight could scorch the leaves. It will have a great time in the direct sun only if it is placed indoors near the west and east-facing windows.
• The ideal container for these plants would be one that does not dry out the soil too quickly. A plastic pot or a glazed ceramic pot will do the job, but you can also use a large terracotta pot.
• During the growing season, this plant likes to have consistent and balanced moisture conditions. It is suggested that you test the soil with your fingertip before watering to see if it feels damp.
• Tropical plants like this one prefer higher levels of humidity around it. You can create these conditions with the help of a humidifier or by placing the pot above a tray with water as the evaporation will assure the humidity needed.
• Due to them being part of the Araceae family, Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma plants contain calcium oxalate crystals which are highly toxic to pets. Be sure you keep them hanging where cats and dogs cannot grab a snack.
• If you wish to propagate your Rhaphidophora plants, you can easily do so by cutting a stem with few baby leaves and place it in water or a good soil mix.
• Pruning is important for these plants, so offering them a stable trellis will help their aerial roots lean on the support you provide. You can also use a plastic support tape for plants.

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma Overview

• Rhaphidophora is a genus that contains around 100 species native to south-east Asia.
• This mini Monstera is considered an exotic jungle plant, but it can also be found in rainforests or dry climates making it an easy-to-grow houseplant. However, hanging these plants can result in smaller leaves without splits.
• Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is a rare tropical aroid, having small and graceful ornamental leaves with 6 inches (15 cm) split lobes.
• Their leaves look like a smaller version of Monstera Deliciosa, which is why it is mostly referred to by the name Mini Monstera. However, it is a completely different species, with no edible fruits.
• Depending on the environmental conditions, these plants can reach up to 12 feet (3.65 meters) in height. As a houseplant, it is usually preferred at 4 to 5 feet (1-1.5 meters) tall.
• They are vining plants, having aerial roots that climb trees or whatever is good for them to stabilize as they grow, such as trellises.

Growing Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma

Although they are not the same, if you already have a Monstera Deliciosa plant by chance, you are halfway there in knowing how to care for a Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma. These plants are big fans of diffused bright light, so it is better to keep them out of direct hot sunlight. Too much exposure to the harsh sun can damage the leaves, drying and turning them yellow. If you want to keep them as houseplants, they should be fine if placed near a sunrise-showing window that provides them with plenty of light. You can also add extra ambient lighting using an artificial grow light.

For outdoor growth, it is recommended that you keep these plants in a bright shade, allowing them to get a gentle touch of the morning sun. However, Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is considered a fast-growing plant, so too little light will slow down the process and will produce small leaves.

The ideal temperatures that the Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma plants need to grow healthy are somewhere between 55°F and 85°F (12-29°C). They can be pretty tolerant of slightly cooler conditions too, but if the temperature starts to drop below 55°F (12°C), you should bring them indoors. During the summer months, you can place them outdoors, but relocate the plants in your household in the wintertime.

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• ELEGANT AESTHETICS: Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma, or Mini Monstera, boasts lush, split leaves, adding a touch of exotic elegance to your decor. Its unique foliage instantly transforms any space into a tropical sanctuary, creating a calming ambiance
• EASY TO GROW PLANT: Mini Monstera thrives with minimal care, making it an excellent choice for busy individuals. Its adaptability to various light conditions and forgiving nature make it a hassle-free addition to your indoor garden. Water sparingly and watch it flourish effortlessly
• SPACE-SAVING MARVEL: Perfect for compact spaces, Mini Monstera's petite size fits effortlessly into any room or office corner. Its vertical growth pattern allows you to enjoy the beauty of a larger plant without the space commitment, making it an ideal choice for urban dwellers and offices with limited room
• DECOR SUPERSTAR: Mini Monstera's unique appearance sparks conversations and compliments. Impress guests and colleagues alike with its rare charm, making your home or office space memorable. Its intriguing leaves are bound to be a focal point, adding a sophisticated flair to your decor
• NATURAL AIR PURIFIER: Enhance your indoor air quality with Mini Monstera. It actively removes toxins, purifying the air and promoting a healthier environment. Breathe easy knowing that this plant not only beautifies your space but also contributes to your well-being

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Rooted Mini Monstera, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma, Live, Live Indoor, Home Decor, Easy to Grow, Easy to Care, Outdoor Garden and Low Maintenance Houseplant (4")

• 𝐋𝐈𝐕𝐄 𝐈𝐍𝐃𝐎𝐎𝐑 𝐏𝐋𝐀𝐍𝐓 Although it has the nickname, this plant is not a part of the Monstera family. It's native to Southern Thailand and Malaysia and thrives in high humidity and warm temperatures. It is rare to find it in nature but luckily for you, it grows quickly and has taken quite the liking to the houseplant lifestyle
• 𝐒𝐔𝐍𝐋𝐈𝐆𝐇𝐓 𝐑𝐄𝐐𝐔𝐈𝐑𝐄𝐌𝐄𝐍𝐓𝐒 Adaptable to medium to bright indirect light, this plant flourishes in a range of light conditions, making it a versatile and eye-catching addition to your indoor space
• 𝐖𝐀𝐓𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐆𝐔𝐈𝐃𝐄 Water once every week, allowing the soil to dry approximately 2 inches down for optimal care and health
• 𝐏𝐄𝐓 𝐂𝐀𝐑𝐄 While a captivating plant, this plant is not pet-friendly. Exercise caution and keep it out of reach of your furry friends
• 𝐏𝐋𝐀𝐍𝐓 𝐂𝐀𝐑𝐄 Perfect for beginners, these low-maintenance plants offer an ideal starting point for aspiring plant enthusiasts. Embrace the joy of nurturing greenery with ease

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• Distinctive Fenestrated Leaves: The Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma 'Ginny' is celebrated for its unique fenestrated leaves with split or cut patterns resembling Swiss cheese. This distinctive foliage allows coastal winds to pass through without damaging the plant pot, adding an exotic touch to any indoor setting.
• Robust and Lush Vines: Live plants indoor features thick, sturdy vines that enhance its lush and vibrant appearance. These robust vines not only contribute to its tropical charm but also support the live plant’s overall health and growth, making it a striking centerpiece for any room decor.
• Versatile Light Requirements: The Mini Monstera plant live adapts well to various lighting conditions, thriving in low to medium indirect sunlight. It can also grow successfully under grow lights with 6-8 hours of light per day, making it suitable for a range of indoor environments.
• Ideal Temperature Range: This plant decor prefers a stable temperature range of 65°F to 75°F, which is ideal for most indoor conditions. Maintaining this temperature range helps ensure the plant pot optimal health and vibrant foliage throughout the year with 4 inch plant pot
• Optimal Soil & Humidity Needs: For best results, the Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma requires a well-draining soil mix, including standard potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark. House plants indoors live also thrives in medium humidity levels between 65% and 75%, mimicking its natural tropical environment.

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Last update on 2024-11-19 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma plants thrive in an all-purpose potting soil, damp, well-draining, and rich in organic matter. If you want to improve the drainage system, you can use perlite which aerates the soil and promotes root growth. A potting mix used for orchids with added active charcoal would also be a good choice for these plants.

Due to their sensitive roots, Rhaphidophora plants are quite susceptible to fertilizer burn. They prefer a high-quality, balanced organic fertilizer that lacks harsh chemicals to reduce the chance of burning. During the active growing phase, these plants are happy with regular fertilizing.

When you are repotting your plant, remove it gently from its pot and check it for symptoms of root rot. If there are any signs, cut the part which is damaged with a sterile knife. After this process, you should place the plant in a new pot. The container should be at least 10 inches wide (25 cm) for a full-sized plant, but with the possibility of buying a double-sized pot over time.

The most dangerous pests for Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma are spider mites. You can spray your plant with Neem oil to get rid of the infestation in a few minutes.

Watering Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is known to grow faster if it is provided with regular waterings, so it should not be left too dry for a long time. Although these plants are pretty thirsty for moisture, they can be very sensitive to overwatering.

Your plant will be happy and healthy if you water it no more than once every 7 to 10 days (about 4 times per month) in the summer or warm temperatures. In cooler conditions or the winter season, the plant should be fine with watering every two weeks.

In general, the best percentage of humidity needed to prevent microorganism growth and to keep your plant happy would be exactly 40%. To keep relative humidity at this level, you should use dehumidifiers or whole-home humidifiers.

If the humidity will rise above this value, do not panic! They will love a few moments of added humidity and you can also place them near other plants.

Propagating Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma

When you start to notice leaf nodes on your Rhaphidophora Tetraspermas plant, it is the perfect chance to transform it into new little plants. Propagating these Mini Monstera plants is quite easy as the only thing you need to do is take a stem chunk from the mother plant and place it into a glass of water or root into a dump potting soil.

Make sure your cutting will have one or more leaf nodes on it. The roots will form from the lowest leaf node, so make sure you place it under the water or soil surface.

If you choose to propagate your Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma plant in water, you should keep a fresh growth environment changing the water at least once per day. The cutting will be ready for transfer into a potting mix within a few weeks when the roots are about 1-2 inches (2-5 cm) long.

However, for cuttings placed in the mix from the beginning of propagation, it is necessary to wait for one month or so to root. All this time you need to keep it alive and then, check very lightly if there is any resistance for the plant. When there is, it means that roots have developed and it can be cared for as a new Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma plant.

In Conclusion

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma species are very popular among Jungalow-style lovers and houseplant aficionados and they are really easy to grow and care for. The only demands that these plants have are a cozy home that can ensure bright, indirect light, and an owner that provides them with well-draining organic soil, smooth fertilizer, weekly waterings, and a lot of love.

They can be placed anywhere you want, both inside and outside of your home. Also, if you are hyped by the idea of having a Monstera Deliciosa plant, but you do not have enough space for it to grow, Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is a great alternative.

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma FAQS

What is the best way to grow Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma?

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma thrives in bright and indirect light, so placing it near an east or west-facing window indoors would be beneficial. The plant likes well-draining, organic soil and consistent and balanced moisture conditions. It’s also important to provide high levels of humidity, which can be achieved with a humidifier or placing the pot over a tray of water.

How fast do Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma grow?

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is considered a fast-growing plant. Its growth rate can be influenced by factors such as light exposure, water frequency, and the type of soil it’s planted in. With proper care, it can grow up to 12 feet outdoors, although indoors it usually reaches about 4-5 feet.

Is Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma easy to care for?

Yes, Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is considered relatively easy to care for. They require bright, indirect light, regular watering, and high humidity. However, they are sensitive to overwatering and direct sunlight, so these conditions need to be balanced correctly.

How do you care for Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma indoors?

To care for Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma indoors, ensure it has access to bright, indirect light, such as near an east or west-facing window. Water it approximately once a week, checking that the soil is damp before doing so. Maintain high humidity around the plant, and feed it with a high-quality organic fertilizer during the growing season.

How often should I water Rhaphidophora?

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma should be watered regularly, but they are sensitive to overwatering. During the summer or in warm temperatures, water it no more than once every 7 to 10 days. In cooler conditions or the winter season, watering every two weeks should suffice.

Does Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma need a moss pole?

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is a climbing plant, so it can benefit from a support like a moss pole, trellis, or another vertical structure. This can help its aerial roots stabilize as they grow and also encourage larger, more split leaves. However, the plant can still grow without one.

The post Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma Guide: How to Grow & Care for “Mini Monstera” appeared first on GardenBeast.

Corn Plant, also known as Fragrans/Fragrant Dracaena or Cornstalk Dracaena, is the solid green variety of the Dracaena family. The plant’s name has its origins in Greek: Dracaena – means female dragon and we’re sure that Khaleesi, the “Mother of Dragons” has a few of them in her home.

Dracaena Fragrans is a popular indoor plant. It gets its name from its leaves, which resemble the corn stalks of the Zea mays a.k.a regular corn.

Dracaena plants are easy to grow and resilient. They don’t have special requirements when it comes to water, light, and other aspects of their daily care. If you’re new to gardening and are looking for a friendly plant that will grow healthy and happy despite occasional accidents, then this houseplant is perfect for you.

Strongly scented flowers, occasionally produced on a plant grown in its native habitat, gave the plant its name. Young plants don’t flower indoors, but older plants might bloom once or twice a year.

Fragrant Dracaena is native to tropical East Africa, where it grows in humid, tropical forests. It is completely green and its foliage has an olive-green hue. In its native habitat, Dracaenas are frequently shaded by nearby vegetation, so they don’t really like unfiltered sunlight.

There are many other species of Dracaena plants, including Dracaena Massangeana, Dracaena Marginata, Dracaena Deremensis, and Dracaena sanderiana.

The most popular variety of Dracaena is the Massangena, which can easily be differentiated from the other cultivars as it has yellow-lime and light-green stripes that go down the center of each dark green leaf.

About Dracaena Fragrans a.k.a Corn Plant

• Other common names for the Dracaena Fragrans are Massangeana cane, Dragon Tree, Ribbon Plant, or Mass cane.
• A great thing about it is that it generates oxygen and makes the air in your home healthier for you and for your loved ones.
• In addition, the Dracaena is particularly good for enhancing air quality because it absorbs toxins. In a NASA study on clean air, scientists have found that Dracaena plants can remove toxic substances from the air, including xylene, benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene.
• This is a slow-growing plant that does not need frequent pruning or maintenance. Its slow growth can be an advantage as the plant will make a perfect decoration in your home and you won’t have to worry about moving it to a bigger container.
• Dracaenas will fill any empty space and you can count on them to maintain their current shape without becoming too big.
• Dracaena plants are usually inexpensive and easy to find. They can be found at most plant stores and home improvement stores at reasonable prices compared with other houseplants of similar sizes.
• They are tolerant of most lighting conditions and will be comfortable in any corner of your home.
• Dracaenas are quite robust, making them easy to grow and care for. Gardening novices, people who travel a lot, or who are very busy will easily keep this plant alive.
• You won’t regret buying a Dracaena because, as mentioned above, it requires very little attention, yet it is very aesthetically pleasing.
• Keep children and pets (especially dogs) away from this plant because it is quite toxic when chewed. The common signs of Dracaena poisoning are hypersalivation, vomiting, lethargy, depression, anorexia, and other digestive issues.

Dracaena Fragrans Features: An Overview

• Dracaena Fragrans is a slow-growing tree-like houseplant. It typically consists of several thick stems that grow from the same root system.
• The mature specimens reach15 m (50 feet) or more, with a crown of slender upright branches and large leaves.
• Stems can reach up to 30 cm (12 inches) in diameter on mature plants. Young plants have a single branchless stem with a rosette of leaves.
• Once the young plant blooms or is pruned, it will divide into several branches.
• The leaves are glossy green, lanceolate, 20–150 cm (8-60 inch) long, and 2–12 cm wide. They closely resemble the foliage of regular corn.
• The tinier leaves of the Dracaena are vertical, while the larger leaves droop due to their weight.
• The flowers of the Dracaena grow in panicles (loose branching clusters) that can be between 15-160 cm (6-63 inch) long, depending on the size of the plant.
• Initially, the flowers are pink, and when they open they are white with a fine red or purple central line on each lobe. They’re extremely fragrant and popular with pollinating insects and birds.
• The fruits of the Dracaena are orange-red berries, 1–2 cm (0,4-0,8 inch) in diameter, and have many seeds.

Growing Dracaena Fragrans

Dracaena Fragrans plants will thrive in partial shade, near a north-facing window. It is important, especially during the warm summer months, not to expose your Dracaena plant to bright sunlight. The sun can burn the leaves causing them to become burned or bleached.

If your plant is going to be exposed to any kind of intense, direct light, make sure you protect it with a curtain or with anything that will filter the light. Too little light can also be a problem as low, indirect light can cause variegated cultivars to lose some of their bright stripings.

Mature Dracaena plants that grow indoors will develop long, stretched, and thin leaves with very little diversification. You can cut them back to your preferred length if they become unattractive and new shoots will soon emerge. The cuttings can be easily rooted, but we’ll talk about this more in the propagation section.

Over time, the leaves of Dracaena plants tend to accumulate dust, especially on the upper sides. You can clean the leaves with a feather duster or with a soft brush.

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• Air-Purifying Benefits: Known for its ability to filter toxins, the Corn Plant improves indoor air quality while adding natural beauty to your home or office.
• 6-Inch Pot Medium Size: Shipped in a durable 6-inch grow pot, this Dracaena Massangeana reaches 1.5 feet tall, ideal for tabletops, shelves, or corners needing a touch of greenery.
• Versatile Home and Office Decor: A striking addition to any room, this live plant enhances spaces with its vibrant green and yellow variegated leaves.
• Tropical Vibes Year-Round: Bring a tropical ambiance indoors with this hardy Dracaena, a favorite for creating calming and stylish environments.

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• Versatile for Home, Office, and Garden Décor: With its elegant green and yellow variegated leaves, the Dracaena adds beauty and a tropical vibe to entryways, corners, and patios (in mild climates)
• Robust and Long-Lasting: Grown for resilience, this plant is designed to flourish indoors for years with minimal care, making it a favorite for both seasoned plant owners and new enthusiasts

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• Dracaena features beautiful leaves that look good by themselves or in combination with other plants.
• Grow Dracaena in bright, indirect sunlight for the best growth and enjoy!
• Height is approximately 24-inches tall, measured from the bottom of the pot to the top of the plant. It is in a 10-inch diameter plant pot.
• Air-purifying. Plants help filter harmful pollutants, such as benzene and formaldehyde, from indoor air.
• Water Dracaena with approximately 2-3 cups of water about once a week. Adjust as needed for your environment.

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Last update on 2024-10-31 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Optimal Temperatures and Humidity for Dracaena Fragrans

Dracaenas do very well when the temperatures are above 13°C (55°F), but if it’s hotter, they can suffer from leaf burn. In hot weather, the leaves of Fragrant Dracaena will start to twist and bend in an effort to reduce their exposure to the sun. When the temperatures drop, the leaves will return to their normal shape.

Dracaena Fragrans is susceptible to cold damage if the temperatures drop below 5°C (40°F), especially if it is windy. You should keep your corn plants away from the cold and from strong winds.

Plants that were damaged by cold temperatures have light grey or brown leaf margins. Plants with visible signs of cold damage will survive, but make sure not to trim the damaged leaves right away. Allow the plant to recover first.

Corn plants love humidity, but winter is often a time of low humidity in most homes due to indoor heating. You can easily maintain a healthy plant by lightly sprinkling the leaves with a water spray to increase humidity. You can also place the plant’s pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, the environment will be pleasantly moist around the plant.

Watering and Fertilizing Fragrant Dracaena

If you water Dracaena Fragrans plants properly, they will grow healthy and they’ll quickly become wonderful companions to your other flowers, shrubs, and decorations. Corn plants are water-lovers, so they need regular watering.

Be careful though, excessive watering can damage your plant and cause root rot. Overwatering is a common mistake that all gardeners have made at least once. Try to apply the ‘soak and dry’ technique until you discover the perfect watering balance.

When watering Fragrant Dracaena, make sure the soil is soaked all the way through. The excess water should be allowed to drain off. It is very important to plant your Dracaenas in well-draining soil that will absorb plenty of water and stay moderately dry between watering.

When it comes to the watering needs of Dracaenas, which are tropical plants, rainwater is brilliant! If you don’t live in a rainy area, make sure you water the plants often during spring and summer, otherwise, their leaf tips will turn brown.

Dracaenas are very sensitive to excess fluoride. If you use fluoride-heavy tap water for your planta, their leaves might become burned. Try switching to distilled water, rainwater, or water collected by a dehumidifier.

Experts recommend not using any fertilizer when growing Dracaenas, as it can cause more harm than good. Generally, corn plants do very well without it, but if you feel that your plant needs extra nutrients, you can fertilize them occasionally.

Propagating Dracaena Fragrans

The corn plant is a perfect plant to propagate because getting successful buds is usually easy and fun.

If you want to multiply your Dracaena, it’s best to wait until spring because that’s when the growing season begins. Start by making a cut two to five inches from a healthy stem that has buds. Use a sterilized instrument to avoid damaging the plant.

Place the cutting into a new pot with fresh soil and make sure the shoots remain above soil level. Water the freshly planted cuttings immediately and continue to care for them as usual.

Corn plants don’t usually need pruning, though you may wish to trim it to achieve a shape or size that suits your space. To reduce your corn plant’s height, simply cut the top off horizontally, with a pair of sharp scissors. You may also want to trim the leaves that have turned brown or that look damaged and unhealthy. You can do so by removing them right from the nodes (where the leaves sprout from the branch).

Indoor plants may attract mealybugs or spider mites. To prevent bugs from attaching to your corn plant, clean the leaves regularly.

Shower your plants with a spray bottle and a drop of a gentle, natural cleaner like Neem Oil to remove pests and dust. If your corn plant deteriorates because of an infestation, use an insecticide spray or specialized spider mite spray.

Repotting Dracaena Fragrans

The corn plant should be repotted annually to encourage growth and to ensure that it’s happy and healthy. This is an easy process and all you have to do it to lift it gently from its current pot and remove the attached soil while trying not to damage its roots. Place the plant into a larger pot and pour fresh potting soil around its base. Don’t squeeze the new soil too tightly, as you risk preventing proper drainage.

In Conclusion

Dracaena Fragrans, also known as Corn Plant or Dragon Tree is an adaptable plant that can easily be grown indoors. Whether you’re a novice gardener or an experienced one, you’ll soon make friends with this versatile ornamental plant.

Now that you know everything about growing and caring for Dracaena Fragrans, you just have to buy one and to choose a nice container that will compliment your interior design.

The post Corn Plant Guide: How to Grow & Care for “Dracaena Fragrans” appeared first on GardenBeast.

With its large, emerald leaves with contrasting white stripes and burgundy underneath, Calathea Medallion is one of the most beautiful houseplants. Calathea veitchiana has such a graceful appearance that it’s easy to see why it is becoming more and more popular among gardeners from all over the world.

Part of the prayer-plant family Marantaceae, Calatheas have an incredible ability: they move their leaves in accordance to the day-night circadian rhythm. At nighttime, you will notice the leaves folding up as if in prayer, hence the nickname. Native to the tropical Americas, Calatheas are the definition of greenhouse plants, so creating the right environments is essential for their survival.

Besides adding interest to any dull corner, this tropical plant has another perk: it thrives in low-light conditions.  However, caring for Calathea Medallion requires more dedication than regular indoor plants do. Although we do not discourage inexperienced gardeners to get one, we strongly advise them to consider its care requirements before deciding to add a Calathea Medallion to their collection of plants.

But don’t worry, by the end of this article you will find out everything you need to know about growing Calathea veitchiana ‘Medallion’.

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Quick Facts 

About Calathea Medallion

• Calathea Medallion is non-toxic to animals or humans, so you can rest assured that your family is safe around this plant. However, it is said that Calatheas are tasty, so you might want to keep them away from curious pets.
• There are hundreds of different types of Calathea. Calathea veitchiana ‘Medallion’(Medallion calathea), Calathea ornata (Pinstripe calathea), Calathea roseopicta ‘Dottie’ (Calathea Dottie), and Calathea lancifolia (Rattlesnake calathea) are some of the most popular species.
• In its native range, Calathea leaves are used for food wrapping and handicraft. In parts of Brazil, they are used to wrap fish before transport and for weaving baskets. In Colombia, containers are made out of large, tough Calathea leaves. Nevertheless, the most famous handicraft items are the rice containers produced in the villages of Thailand.
• Unfortunately, several species are threatened with extinction due to habitat loss. This can have a huge economic impact, as Calathea leaves are an important source of income for locals.
• As long as the temperature is right, Calathea Medallion can be grown in outdoor condition. It would make a beautiful addition to a deck or porch.

Calathea Medallion Features: An Overview

• Calatheas are popular due to their colourful inflorescences and large, decorative leaves. In their natural environment, their leaves provide habitat for many invertebrates, as they can retain pools of water (phytotelmata).
• Calathea plants fold up their leaves during the night, revealing the colourful undersides of their stunning leaves. This process is called nyctinasty.
• Calathea Medallion moves its leaves by changing the water pressure in the swollen pulvini nodes (joints) located at the base of the leaf along the petiole. It is believed the plant does this to follow the sun’s movement and maximize light absorption.
• Unlike specimens that grow in the wild, indoor Calathea veitchiana plants will never flower, so they don’t generate any scent. This can be an advantage for gardeners who suffer from hay fever.
• The absence of flowers isn’t a concern, as the plant’s foliage makes a bold statement alone.
• Fully mature Medallions can get about 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) tall under the right conditions. It is a moderately fast-growing plant.

Growing Calathea Medallion

Calathea Medallion is pretty fussy when it comes to lighting conditions. Like most tropical plants, exposure to direct sunlight will cause leaf burn. If you notice any scorching, move the plant away from the window to a more sheltered area. Medallion plants thrive in medium light conditions, similar to their native habitat.

Although Medallions can grow well in north-facing rooms with low light environments, a bit more light will improve their appearance and keep the leaf’s patterns more vibrant. The best location for a Calathea inside the home is in a room with plenty of indirect sunlight.

Make sure you keep your Calathea Medallion away from heaters or radiators. If the air is too hot, the leaves will start to curl. Try to maintain a temperature between 65° and 80° Fahrenheit (18° and 29° Celsius) all year round.  If the leaves are fading, your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Move it to an area where it can receive only indirect light.

It is worth noting that Calathea Medallion does not appreciate cold drafts and temperature changes, so avoid placing it next to doorways. Because they don’t mind humidity and low-light conditions, Medallions are an excellent choice for bathrooms and kitchens. This makes up for their pretentious nature.

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• NON-TOXIC: If you have furry companions, you’ll be thrilled to learn that calathea is non-toxic to cats and dogs! Your furry friend will not be harmed by rubbing on, eating, or otherwise interacting with them — the only thing that may be compromised is the beauty of your plants, so we recommend displaying your new calathea out of reach of curious, high energy animals.

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American Plant Exchange Calathea Medallion Live Prayer Plant, 6-Inch Pot W/White Cover, Pet Safe, Low Light, & Air Purifying Tropical Indoor Plant for Home, Office & Garden Décor

• Striking Foliage & Colorful Patterns: The Calathea Medallion features large, round green leaves with bold, intricate patterns of dark green, light green, and purple, making it a beautiful indoor plant to enhance any home or office décor.
• Perfect for Low-Light Indoor Spaces: Thrives in low to medium indirect light, making it an ideal houseplant for bedrooms, living rooms, or offices that don’t get much sunlight. This makes the Calathea Medallion one of the best low-light indoor plants for your home.
• Air-Purifying Plant: Not only does the Calathea Medallion add vibrant colors to your indoor space, but it also helps to improve air quality by removing toxins from the air, making your home healthier.
• Pet-Friendly & Non-Toxic: Safe for households with pets, the Calathea Medallion is non-toxic to cats and dogs, so you can enjoy this tropical beauty without worrying about your furry friends.
• Easy to Care For: Requires minimal maintenance—keep the soil slightly moist and provide humidity, making it an easy-care houseplant for both beginners and experienced plant enthusiasts.

$26.98

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Bestseller No. 3

American Plant Exchange Calathea Medallion, Peacock, Live Prayer Plant, Small 4-Inch Pot, Air-Purifying Indoor Houseplant, Tropical Home Décor

• Stunning Foliage Design: The Calathea Medallion (Calathea veitchiana) features large, round leaves with intricate green patterns and silvery accents, resembling a decorative medallion. The deep purple undersides of the leaves add a striking contrast, making it a bold and beautiful addition to any indoor space.
• Easy Care for Beginners: This tropical houseplant thrives in bright, indirect light and requires regular watering to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. To prevent leaf browning, use filtered or distilled water, as the Calathea Medallion is sensitive to chemicals found in tap water.
• Pet-Safe & Non-Toxic: Ideal for households with pets and children, the Calathea Medallion is non-toxic, allowing you to safely enhance your living space with vibrant, exotic foliage without any worry.
• Versatile Indoor & Outdoor Use: While primarily an indoor plant, the Calathea Medallion can also be displayed outdoors in shaded, protected areas during the warmer months. It thrives in temperatures between 65-80°F, making it perfect for patios, gardens, or shaded balconies.
• Perfect for Home Décor & Office Spaces: With its bold patterns and elegant leaves, the Calathea Medallion adds a sophisticated touch to any space. Whether brightening up your living room, office, or outdoor patio, this tropical beauty is sure to make a statement.

$20.48

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Last update on 2024-11-08 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

If you notice the mesmerizing leaves of your Calathea Medallion start to brown up or curl, then it could mean that the environment is too dry. To fix this problem, mist it with distilled water regularly, at least once per day. Spray the air around the plant and avoid spraying too close to the leaves. Alternatively, you can use a pebble tray or a humidifier. Ideally, the humidity should be around 50%.

If you want to place Calathea Veitchiana in your garden, on your porch, or on the balcony, make sure the temperatures never drop below 55°F (12°C). Low temperatures can cause permanent damage or even kill the plant. To prevent this, always bring it inside on cold nights. In a south-facing location, make sure your Medallion only gets filtered morning sunlight.

A common problem with tropical plants is the burning of the tips or edges. This could happen due to your tap water. To avoid this, use rainwater, distilled water, or allow the tap water to sit for a day so that the fluoride and chlorine can evaporate. Avoid using shine products on the leaves, but make sure to clean them with a damp cloth when they get dusty.

Planting Calathea Medallion

Calathea Medallion grows best in a porous potting mix with excellent drainage. The ideal soil would be a mixture of potting soil, peat moss, and perlite. You can also add charcoal, orchid bark, vermiculite, or coco coir. The soil should hold enough moisture and nutrients, but also drain well. Avoid soils with too much bark or compost mixed in, as they can cause fungus infestations.

When you buy the plant, check if the soil is too compact and if this is the case loosen it up a bit. Make sure the pots have enough draining holes. To improve drainage, place pebbles along the bottom of the pot. Always empty the tray so that the plant doesn’t sit in soggy soil. Keep in mind that terracotta pots dry out faster than ceramic or plastic.

Calathea Medallion can be fertilized once a month during the growing season, from spring to late summer. During the winter, fertilization should be slowed down or stopped completely. Fertilizer should be moderate and diluted to ¼ of its normal strength. Over-fertilization can cause mineral build-up in the soil which can cause your plant to become leggy, develop root burn, and eventually die. Occasional flushing may be beneficial for Calathea Veitchiana.

To replenish soil nutrients, repot your Calathea every year or every other year. Repotting in spring before the growing season will give the roots more room to grow. Moreover, it can resolve any preexisting soil fungal issues.

Watering Calathea Medallion

Calathea Medallion is not a drought-tolerant plant, so it requires regular watering. A common mistake when it comes to watering tropical plants is to water on a schedule. Watering too seldom or too often can cause dried leaves, fungus gnats, root rot, and many other problems.

The best way to know when to water is by testing the soil for moisture before watering. Press the potting soil with your finger and check if the top 1” (2.5 cm) is dry. If it’s still moist, hold off watering and check again in a couple of days. If it is dry, thoroughly water the plant and then empty the tray. Most Calatheas, including Medallion, Zebra, and Rattlesnake varieties, it’s better to under-water than over-water.

Propagating Calathea Medallion

Unlike plants that can propagate just from cuttings, Calathea Medallion propagation is done by dividing the roots before growing season. To successfully propagate your Medallion, you need to have a healthy, established mother plant, as they don’t like being disturbed. When they are well taken care of, Calatheas shoot out new leaves to expand their beauty. After un-potting the plant, you can see that it is easy to separate it into smaller parts.

After determining which areas you will divide, carefully untangle the roots with your hands. If this is not possible, use a sharp, sterilized knife to cut the tuber. Place the new division in fresh potting soil like the one the mother was in and water thoroughly. The soil needs to remain moist, but not soggy over the next few weeks. Place the new specimen in a dark area, away from strong light. Make sure the humidity is high and mist as needed. After 2 to 4 weeks, you should notice new leaves, indicating that your Calathea Medallion has been successfully propagated.

In Conclusion

Although Calathea Medallion is a queen that requires a little bit of extra attention, it’s totally worth it! Gardeners from all over the world love this tropical plant for its stunning emerald green foliage with contrasting white stripes. This beauty even has a day-night circadian rhythm! If you are willing to put in a bit of effort, Calathea Medallion will reward you by bringing life to the most gloomy corners and low-light rooms.

Are you growing Calathea Medallion? Share your experience in the comments below!

Calathea Medallion FAQS

How do you take care of a Calathea Medallion?

• Light: Provide medium light conditions, avoiding direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.
• Temperature: Keep it between 65° and 80° Fahrenheit (18° to 29° Celsius).
• Watering: Water when the top 1” (2.5 cm) of the soil is dry. Avoid over-watering.
• Humidity: Maintain around 50% humidity. Mist with distilled water or use a humidifier if the environment is too dry.
• Soil: Use a porous potting mix with good drainage, combining potting soil, peat moss, and perlite.
  Fertilization: Fertilize once a month during the growing season, using a diluted solution.

Are Calathea Medallions hard to care for?

They require more attention compared to regular indoor plants due to their specific light, temperature, and humidity needs. While not extremely difficult, they can be a bit fussy, especially for inexperienced gardeners.

Does a Calathea Medallion need sun?

Calathea Medallions prefer indirect sunlight. Direct sunlight can scorch their leaves, so they should be placed in a location with plenty of filtered or diffused light.

How much do you water Calathea Medallions?

Water when the top 1” (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. It’s crucial to avoid over-watering; it’s better to under-water than over-water. Always ensure good drainage and empty the tray after watering to prevent the plant from sitting in soggy soil.

The post Calathea Medallion Guide: How to Grow & Care for “Calathea Veitchiana” appeared first on GardenBeast.

You would think that Halloween is a holiday that needs no introduction. However, few people actually know what this holiday is all about. For most people, Halloween is just a fun holiday and a chance to dress up, eat candy and decorate the house with horror-themed plastic décor.

But, if you want to make this year’s holiday a bit more special, we advise you to learn a few things about the true meaning of Halloween and the fascinating history behind this celebration.

And if you want to ditch the cheap décor, we have some houseplant ideas that can be spookier and more original than commercial props. Keep on reading to discover some unique Halloween decorating ideas with spooky houseplants.

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Popular Plants Associated with Halloween

1. Pumpkins and turnips

In Europe, lanterns were carved out of turnips on Halloween. The turnips were carved into shapes of demonic creatures in order to ward off Jack’s wandering soul.

When this holiday transitioned to America, it made much more sense to carve pumpkins. After all, pumpkins were abundant and much bigger than turnips.

Pumpkins are the official fall flavour and scent and are a major part of this spooky holiday. If you want to learn more about them, read our complete guide to planting and growing pumpkins.

2. Chrysanthemums

These flowers steal the spotlight in any fall décor. However, their history in décor has more to do with their spiritual properties than with their lovely fall colours.

Chrysanthemums are believed to offer metaphysical protection. Due to their earthy, yet vibrant colours, they are also associated with the sun, which is a symbol of light and life. As such, they were often used to ward off death and darkness. Learn how to grow them from our complete guide to chrysanthemums.

3. Mugwort

This is yet another plant with powerful spiritual powers. It is associated with divination, but it is also used as a remedy to cast off bad energies. Baths with mugwort are recommended for people who are surrounded by bad energy and can’t sleep. Moreover, a mugwort infusion was often used in the middle-aged to treat demonic possessions.

Potted Plants that Make for Spooky Halloween Décor Pieces

While the spirit of Halloween is lovely, the plastic, disposable décor should be eliminated from this holiday. To encourage a more sustainable way to celebrate this holiday, we have gathered a big list of plants that are spooky by nature. Some have creepy feeding habits while others are harmless but they look deadly. These plants are guaranteed to scare anyone in a gloomy Halloween atmosphere.

1. Moonflower

OK, this may not sound like a scary Halloween plant, but hear us out. Ipomoea alba, commonly referred to as moonflower or tropical white morning-glory, is actually quite beautiful and not at all scary. This plant has bright white flowers.

If you manage to maintain this plant with flowers until Halloween, it will be great for turning your patio into a witchy moon garden. The white flowers reflect the moon’s light, creating an eerie atmosphere. This plant typically blooms from summer until late fall, so you should have some blooms to work with.

However, if you lose the blooms, you can work with the very rich foliage to create a Halloween décor. You can integrate small toys into the foliage arrangement and make it seem as if the vine is strangling them.

This plant likes moist soil with good drainage. A young plant needs to be watered more often but an adult plant can be left until the top 5 cm of its soil dries out. Since this is a climbing plant it will need vertical support.

You can leave a young plant with the vines hanging, but once it grows you can no longer grow it as a hanging plant. There are special trellises that you can buy or build for potted plants. For optimal growth, place the plant in a spot where it gets plenty of morning sunlight but only shade in the afternoon.

Keep in mind that this plant is toxic, so keep it away from pets and children.

2. Red spider lily

Lycoris radiate, also known as the Red spider lily plant has a very spooky appearance which may be why it is also surrounded by some creepy legends. It is believed that it grows in Hell and that it guides the dead towards their new reincarnated lives.

Because it is associated with the dead, it is never used as a gift. Nonetheless, it grows just as well in USDA zones 5-10 as it supposedly grows in hell. If you care for it properly, it can make for a great potted plant and a lovely Halloween prop.

It can reach a top height of 60 cm with an average width of 35 cm. It features long curved stamens and thin petals. It basically looks like an upside-down bloody red spider.

The Red Spider Lilly plant has very long roots so make sure to plant it in a container that is at least 40 cm deep. It grows well in full sun exposure but it grows even better in partial shade. In fact, it blooms earlier in partial shade. It likes rich organic soil with good draining properties.

Fertilize it in early spring and keep watering to a minimum in the summer when it is dormant. The only part of this plant that is toxic is the bulb, so make sure to keep it away from pets if you know that they like to dig into your potted plants.

3. Bat flower

It’s enough to take a quick glance at this flower to know what inspired its name. It features dark purple bracts that resemble bat wings with a cluster of small flowers in the middle. It also features some whisker-like strands that shoot from the middle of the bracts in all directions.

Overall, it has a very gothic vibe. Its botanical name is Tacca Chantrieri. It is native to southern Asia. While its appearance doesn’t suggest it, this plant is a type of orchid, so it is perfectly happy to be grown indoors in a container like most orchids. It can reach a top height of 90 cm and a top width of 30 cm.

The Bat Flower needs a wide, shallow pot. Like most orchids, it prefers a bark-based potting medium. You can mix pine bark with peat moss and up to 10% of sand. It grows best in partial sun or dappled shade. This is a very thirsty plant.

It likes to be watered abundantly until the potting medium is saturated and it likes the medium to be kept moist. Air moisture also helps it, so you can make its environment more friendly with an air humidifier.

4. Corpse flower

Titan arum commonly referred to as the corpse flower is not the type of plant that you’ll want to grow in your garden and maybe we should have kept it for the end to ease your way into the world of creepy houseplants.

However, we still have plenty of creepy plants on our list, so no need to worry. It is very hard to imagine what inspired its name. While this plant doesn’t look like a corpse, it looks just as creepy as one. It is in fact an aroid.

Its flowers are born on an inflorescence known as the spadix. It is related to Anthurium, also known as the Flamingo flower. What makes the Corpse flower so spooky is not its shape, but its size.

It can reach a top height of 270 cm and a top width of 50 cm. This is a large plant so it needs to be repotted gradually. However, it is a slow grower so this won’t be a very frequent task. Nonetheless, being a slow grower means that it takes a long time to mature.

As a result, you will have to wait for 8, maybe 10 years before you see it bloom. However, when it does bloom, it puts on quite a spectacle with an inflorescence that can grow up to 3 meters. Nonetheless, the smell of this plant is not something that you can live with. As such, be happy that the inflorescence only lasts 48 hours.

The best medium for this plant is a mixture of 30% potting soil, 40% bark, 20% peat, and 10 % perlite. It needs bright indirect light or dappled shade to thrive. This plant only grows one leaf. It is dormant in the winter, so don’t be afraid when it loses its leaf at the end of each growing season.

The corpse flower needs moist soil at all times. Make sure to water it as soon as the top dries out. If you don’t provide it with enough water you might send it into a dormancy period.

5. Begonia Mazae Nigricans

Let’s move on to a less spooky, but easier-to-grow houseplant. While this plant is not spooky on its own, it can put on a scary show in the right context. It has dark green, almost black leaves with serrated margins.

The leaves are asymmetrical and can reach a top length of 10 cm. Both the stems and the edges of the leaves are slightly hairy. The leaves are arranged alternatively on the stem. The centre of the leaf has a very light green shade and a star-like shape.

The combination between the very dark leaf and the star-like centres gives this plant a very magical appearance. Place it in a shady location with a spotlight directed at it for the best effect.

Begonias need light potting soil with good drainage. Adding some perlite to the soil is recommended to prevent root rot. This plant needs a semi-shady location. Like most begonias, it prefers the soil to be moderately moist.

Water it every 3-4 days, but feel free to experiment a little with the schedule until you find the right frequency. Moreover, adapt your watering schedule to the temperature and humidity.

6. ZZ Raven plant

Black is not a shade that we associate with plants so when we do see black plants we associate them with dark and unnatural environments.

As such, the ZZ Raven plant is a wonderful plant to have around on Halloween night, and for the rest of the year too. The ZZ plant is a very common indoor plant known for its bright green foliage.

The ZZ raven plant is a hybrid that is identical to the ZZ plant, the only difference being that its foliage is almost black. Well, the shade is actually purple-green, but it changes and darkens as the plant ages. The leaves are oval-shaped and they grow in a feather-like shape.

The stem is thick and bulbous but it tappers to the tip. Both the leaves and the stem are waxy and shiny. To the untrained eye, this plant is so shiny that it can appear artificial.

The ZZ raven plant can survive in most light conditions, but it thrives in indirect light. It is a draught-tolerant plant, so allow the soil to dry out completely before watering sessions. Since it is a very hardy plant, it can survive in most types of soil.

It just needs a medium with good draining. Adding some perlite and sand to a regular potting mix is your best option, but this plant can even grow well in a succulent mix. Learn more about these fascinating plants from our complete guide to ZZ plants.

7. Colocasia Black Magic

Also known as Black Elephant Ears, this is yet another plant that probably belongs to Morticia Adams’s garden. This is a tender perennial cultivar that grows large arrow-shaped leaves that bear a slight resemblance to elephant ears.

The leaves emerge as light green but they turn into a deep purple, almost black shade as they mature. In the wild, this plant can reach a maximum height of 2.5 meters and a maximum spread of 1.5 meters.

However, it takes about 5 years to reach maturity, and it doesn’t grow that big indoors. As such, you don’t need to worry that it will take over your living room.

This plant grows best in partial shade. It prefers moist soil with good drainage. It also likes humus-rich soil, so invest in a proper medium for it. It is native to tropical and subtropical regions so it enjoys high temperatures and high levels of humidity.

In the wintertime use a room humidifier to make the air more pleasant for it. Water it frequently, especially during dry summers. Don’t worry if you have a young plant that keeps losing leaves. It is normal for young leaves to lose weight as the stalk extends. Once it matures, it will hold on to its leaves.

8. Purple Oxalis

This plant has a very unique appearance. It has a deep-purple shade, that can look almost black at times. It has triangular leaves that grow in groups of three. The leaves grow on the top of the stem. Since the stem is very thin, the leaves look like dark butterflies or small bats.

The leaves have a lighter shade in the middle and they look like a triangle folded in the middle, which is what makes them look like tiny wings. It is grown for foliage, but it also grows some lovely, less scary light purple flowers. This plant can reach a top height of 15 cm with a top width of 60 cm.

Purple oxalis is a very low-maintenance perennial. It grows well in full sun exposure, but it can also make do with partial sun. It prefers loamy, well-drained soil with an acidic pH. If you care for it right, it can bloom from spring until winter.

This plant is dormant in the summer, so you can water it less frequently at that time. Ideally, in the summer, you should water it lightly every 2-3 weeks. During the rest of the year, you can water it more frequently, but allow the topsoil to dry between watering sessions. Learn how to grow and care for this ornamental from our complete guide to Oxalis.

9. Sarracenia purpurea

Of course, a spooky plant list would not be complete without at least one carnivorous plant. The purple pitcher plant is quite an impressive plant. It will not only freak out the trick-or-treaters but it will also trap annoying insects.

This plant has a pitcher shape and hairy leaves. Each plant produces a single red flower that grows on a tick, leafless stalk. The leaves can be green, reddish, or yellow. They have purple veins and hooded lids.

Like most carnivorous plants, Sarracenia purpurea thrives in poor acidic soil. It makes up for the nutrients that it doesn’t find in the soil by trapping live insects. In an indoor environment, where it doesn’t have access to insects, you will need to feed it.

You can feed it insects if you can trap them outdoors or small pieces of meat. It takes about 2-3 days for the plant to digest the meat. This plant needs as much sun as possible to try to give it at least 4-6 hours of full sun exposure.

The more sun it gets, the more vibrant its leaves will be. This is a very thirsty plant that needs the soil to always be moist, almost damp. Place a saucer under it and make sure it always has about 2 cm of water in it. Learn more about this carnivorous plant from our complete guide to Sarracenia purpurea.

10. Venus Fly Trap

As cliche as it may be, this is the ultimate spooky plant. It is essential to have it around, especially if you get visited by kids. After all, who hasn’t seen at least one cartoon with Dionaea Muscipula, commonly known as the Venus Fly Trap taking a bite of someone’s finger? However, that should not be an encouragement for people to touch it.

This plant is way less dangerous than it looks in cartoons, and touching it could harm it. A mature plant will have 4-7 leaves. It can grow 4-10 white flowers with green veins. The leaves are hinged with hairlike bristles that sense prey.

When the bristles sense prey, the trap closes and the plant releases enzymes that digest the prey. Each leaf trap can close several times before falling out.

The Venus Fly Trap needs as much bright indirect light as possible. Direct sunlight is only an option in areas with cold summers.

It needs nutrient-poor soil with good drainage and good air circulation. A mixture of peat moss and perlite is your best bet. Never use standard potting soil. Moreover, never use any compost or fertilizer. This plant is a little high maintenance when it comes to its water needs.

It is very sensitive to chlorine, salt, or dissolved minerals. As such, you must only water it with rain water, distilled water, or reverse-osmosis water. Learn more about this friendly plant from our complete guide to Venus Fly Trap.

A Brief History of Halloween

Not familiar with Halloween? This interesting and popular holiday is celebrated on October 31st. The origins of this holiday date back 2000 years. It was inspired by Samhain, a Celtic festival. The Celts celebrated their new year on November 1st.

They believed that on the night before the new year, the gate between the world of the living and the world of the dead opened. Once the gate opened, ghosts were able to walk the earth. On this holiday, the Celts wore costumes made of animal pelts and lit huge bonfires.

A few hundred years later, this pagan holiday was incorporated into a Christian Holiday, as it so often happened. The Christian Celebration was initially All Martyrs Day, but it later became All Souls Day. The later holiday was more similar to the initial Samhain pagan holiday.

In time, the celebration became All Saints Day or All-hallows (which meant All Saints Day in Middle English). Since it was celebrated on November 1st, the night before became known as All Hollows’ Eve and it eventually settled on Halloween.

How it came that a ghost celebration became the reason behind a quarter of America’s candy production, is a less logical story. Basically, Americans borrowed Halloween from the Europeans and they added the trick-or-treating tradition. Who came up with that idea and how it spread so quickly is a mystery that is unlikely to ever be solved.

Conclusion

As you can see, the world of plants can be quite creepy if you know what to look for. These plants will look scarier and more authentic than cheap plastic decorations.

Moreover, the beauty of these plants goes beyond their unique designs that will look scary on Halloween. They will be great conversation starters all year long. They are also great reminders that you can find beauty in every living thing. And the best thing about them is that they are pretty low-maintenance so you won’t have a hard time growing them.

What are your favorite Halloween plants? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Halloween Plants: Spooky Plants That Will Make Perfect Halloween Decorations appeared first on GardenBeast.

If you feel like there’s something missing from your garden, we are more than pleased to introduce you to one of our top picks for this summer! Citronella plants a.k.a. Pelargonium ‘citrosum’ plants are the missing piece from every collection, whether it is your garden or home that needs another green fellow around.

Pelargonium ‘citrosum’, usually known as the Citronella plant, Mosquito plant, or Citrosa geranium, is a species of flowering subshrubs in the Geraniaceae family. This plant is native to several tropical and temperate regions worldwide, especially southern Africa.

Not only do Citronella plants look absolutely adorable, but they are also very easy to grow and care for. As always, once you have one of these shrubbies around, there will be times when you will forget about them.

But no worries! They will be perfectly fine without your constant attention and will not hesitate to forgive you for your occasional absence.

Sounds interesting? Keep reading our guide to find out more about Citronella plants. By the end of this article, you will see that they are the most delightful companions to have around!

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Quick Facts 

About Citronella Plants

• Due to their similar names, numerous people confuse Citronella plants with Citronella grass (Lemongrass). Besides this fact and their lemon-like fragrance, they have nothing else in common.
• Citronella is a popular ingredient in insect repellents. Many of their names would make you think that these plants contain citronella. However, they are just varieties of Scented geraniums that release a citronella-like perfume from the crushed leaves.
• These shrubby friends will look gorgeous in a variety of landscape decorations. They are wonderful additions to mass plantings, near walkways or entrances, beds, borders, containers, or hanging baskets.
• Indoors, their blossoms can bring a nice dash of colour to their surroundings as cut flowers in a vase. Some people use their stems and leaves in various arrangements or dried for potpourri.
• Citronella plants are hybrids that came into this world by taking specific genes from two other well-known species of plants: African geranium and Chinese citronella grass.
• They thrive in environmental conditions that mimic their natural habitat – lots of sunlight, mid-warm temperatures, and slightly moist growing mediums.
• If you want to grow these plants in containers, you should repot them once every two years. The same pot works just fine to maintain their current size and one that is slightly larger will allow your plants to grow bigger with time.
• Citronella plants may be pretty toxic to animals and humans if ingested. We suggest you grow these shrubs in a spot where your curious cats, dogs, or children cannot reach them.

Citronella Plants Features: An Overview

• Citronella plants belong to the Pelargonium genus of about 280 species of shrubs, perennials, and succulents. They share this genus with other species of flowering plants like Sweet-scented geranium, Regal Pelargonium, and Angel Pelargonium.
• They are herbaceous perennial subshrubs that can reach from 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm) in height and 12 to 18 inches (30-46 cm) in width.
• Pelargonium ‘citrosum’ plants come with attractive, fern-like foliage. Their evergreen, palmate leaves are very fragrant, having a fresh, lemon-like scent that resembles citronella.
• These plants usually bloom from late spring through early autumn. During this period, they exhibit small clusters of lightly fragrant pink to purple flowers that also have some lavender overtones.
• Citronella plants make for lovely companions to other species of plants, such as Rose, Chrysanthemum, Sunflower, Lavender, Senecio, Heliotropium, or Gerbera Daisy.

Growing Citronella Plants

In general, Citronella plants are very easy-going when it comes to their environmental and growing requirements. You can just find the perfect spot to grow them and let them do their thing with little to no help. If you are paying attention to their basic needs, you will see for yourself how friendly these beauties can be!

Like most garden Pelargonium species, they will grow at their best and bloom profusely under full sunlight exposure. In regions with very warm climates, however, Citronella plants will tolerate and even appreciate some afternoon shade.

Although shady locations may cause your plants to grow somewhat leggy, pinching them back regularly can help to keep them full-looking.

Citronella plants are typically hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11. These shrubbies can withstand short periods of light frost but you should consider protecting them anyway. If winters in your area are harsher, it is wise to bring your plants indoors in late autumn. As a general rule, they prefer tropical climates and perform very well in hot temperatures.

Pelargonium ‘citrosum’ plants are mostly carefree in terms of fungal diseases and pests. Yet, some intruders like mealybugs, aphids, or spider mites can disturb the peace of your buddies once in a while.

These pests usually feed on the leaves and stems of the plants, so it will be pretty easy to notice them. In case of infestation, handpick them and treat your plants with a suitable insecticide or pesticide.

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2 Citronella Plants, Mosquito Plant, Thriving Inside 4” Durable Nursery Pots, Live Plants

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• With its rich green leaves, occasional pink blossoms, and subtle lemony aroma it is often referred to as the mosquito plant. This rapid grower looks and smells amazing! Thrives being grown in the ground or in pots or containers. It also transitions well to being grown indoors.
• When shipping, we individually wrap each plant in its own protective casing to ensure it arrives to you healthy and strong

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Clovers Garden Citronella Plants – Two (2) Live Plants – Non-GMO - Not Seeds - Each 4" to 8" Tall – in 4" Inch Pots - Citrosa Geranium Plant, Mosquito Repellent, Blooming, Edible

• TWO (2) LARGE LIVE PLANTS – big, healthy, ready to grow, premium plants, 4” to 8” tall plants, in 4” pots. NON GMO No Neonicotinoids
• Citronella Mosquito plants (Citrosa Geranium) are a beautiful plant for your yard, patio, pool area, or garden
• These lemony-scented citronella plants cover an area up to 10 square feet. They require little tending and grow to about 4 feet high if the season allows
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Planting Citronella Plants

Citronella shrubs can tolerate almost any soil pH, but they will thrive in slightly acidic substrates with a pH range of 5.8 to 6.3. Make sure their growing medium is not too rich in nutrients or organic matter because these can lessen the strength of their fragrance.

In outdoor settings, plant your Citronella shrubs in slightly damp soil that has excellent drainage. For potted plants, look for a container that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it with a peat-based potting mix.

Fertilization-wise, you do not need to give your Pelargonium ‘citrosum’ plants too much attention. Garden plants will do just fine if you provide them with a balanced fertilizer once every year in spring. They go dormant in winter, so avoid fertilizing them during this season.

Still, potted specimens will require fertilizing more often than those outdoor companions that you are growing in the ground. Feed your potted plants with a balanced fertilizer at half strength in spring. If they seem less vigorous in general, you can repeat this process once every three to four weeks during the summer months.

Your Citronella plants will become fuller and bushier if you prune or pinch them from time to time. We recommend you prune these shrubs in spring to give them enough time to set flower buds and blossoms. Moreover, deadheading their spent or unhealthy flowers will encourage more blooming. When your plants grow too large, you can also cut them back during any season.

Watering Citronella Plants

If you are a beginner gardener or a forgetful one and you want these plants around, we bring you the best news possible! Citronella plants are drought-tolerant for long periods and do not enjoy having their feet wet.

In humid climates with frequent rainfalls, you can even skip watering these shrubs for good and stop worrying about how great they are doing.

Sometimes, however, very long periods of dry soil can cause yellow, brownish, or falling-off foliage. On the other hand, too much moisture will result in root rot and irreversible damage. First things first, make sure you check the soil in-between waterings. You can avoid these extreme cases by watering your Citronella plants only when their soil has dried out completely.

When it comes to humidity, Citronella plants can perform nicely in a wide range of conditions. These shrubby friends will have an excellent time in humid environments, but they can also handle low levels of humidity very well.

Propagating Citronella Plants

Citronella plants are great ornamentals for your summer-blooming garden, especially in mass planting, so making more of these babies is not optional! But if you cannot find more space for them, you can always surprise your special family members or friends with a nice gift. Find your garden tools and let’s bring your inner talent into the spotlight, gardener!

The best way to propagate Citronella plants is through stem cuttings in early spring. This method consists of taking cuttings of about 6 inches (15 cm) long and rooting them in a fresh potting mix. Before planting, make sure you remove all but the uppermost leaves and dip the cut ends of your cuttings in rooting hormone for optimal results.

Once these steps are complete, fill a container or bed with moist vermiculite. Plant the Citronella cuttings in it and maintain the substrate moist until they develop a healthy root system. You can check the stage of root development by pulling the cuttings gently from time to time.

When you start to feel some resistance, you can transplant the baby plants outdoors into the garden or in their individual pots. After replanting, provide them with the same overall caring routine as for the mother plants.

In Conclusion

As promised, Citronella plants are low-maintenance semi shrubs that have come with many advantages and no disadvantages! Their lemon-like fragrance, hypnotic foliage, cute flowers, and easy-going style make them perfect for any garden. The tiny effort of growing and caring for Citronella plants is really worth it when you have so many rewards waiting for you around the corner!

Are you already growing Citronella plants? Share your experience in the comments below!

Citronella FAQS

Can citronella repel mosquitoes?

Yes, citronella is known to repel mosquitoes. It is a common ingredient in many mosquito repellents and candles designed for outdoor use.

What is citronella used for?

Citronella is primarily used as a natural insect repellent, especially against mosquitoes. Additionally, it is used in candles, lotions, and sprays for this purpose. Citronella oil is also utilized in perfumes, soaps, and cosmetics for its refreshing and deodorizing properties.

What bugs does citronella get rid of?

While citronella is most famous for repelling mosquitoes, it can also deter other bugs such as black flies and fleas. However, its effectiveness can vary depending on the species of bugs and the form in which citronella is used.

Is citronella really lemongrass?

No, citronella and lemongrass are not the same. While both have a lemony scent, they are different plants. Citronella comes from the Citronella plant (Pelargonium ‘citrosum’), whereas lemongrass is a grass from the Cymbopogon genus. However, they are often confused due to their similar fragrance.

The post Citronella Plant Guide: How to Grow & Care for “Pelargonium Citrosum” appeared first on GardenBeast.

A Philodendron, be it a trailing or a heart-shaped leaved specimen, will bring plenty of joy to your home and garden. This super popular ornamental plant has gained its reputation through an irresistible mix of adorable appearance and low-maintenance personality.

The Philodendron family of plants contains hundreds of attractive ornamentals that are popular worldwide thanks to their exotic foliage. The leaves of Philodendron plants are usually a rich green, glossy, and large, so if you are looking for a plant with jungle vibes, this ornamental is a perfect option.

As mentioned above, there are two main types of ornamental philodendrons that you can choose from climbing (trailing or vining) and non-climbing. The climbing varieties are fast growers that can reach several feet quite quickly and can be trained to climb different structures. The climbing/vining varieties will also make perfect ornamentals to grow in hanging baskets. Non-climbing varieties are great options if you are looking for statement plants that grow upright and will surprise you with their robust and excellent foliage.

All a Philodendron needs to thrive and keep you company for a long time is, as you might already know, a mix of lots of indirect light and regular watering. And the best part is you can even forget to water your plant a few times without putting your beloved Philodendron’s life in danger. A very forgiving companion!

Given the extraordinary nature and features of Philodendron, you could expect this plant to also be easy to propagate. Well, the good news is that you are absolutely right! Although Philodendrons do not come along with numerous methods of propagation, the ones that we featured in this guide will help you make it happen. In terms of effort, minimal levels are what you are looking for. Too much time spent? Not a chance!

Keep reading to find out how you can propagate your Philodendron buddy! In just a few easy steps, you will have more Philodendron plants to fill your collection with or gift to those special persons in your life.

Propagating Philodendron Using Stem Cuttings

This method is our favourite as it is the most effective and easy way to obtain more Philodendron plants in the blink of an eye. The ideal time to take Philodendron cuttings is usually early spring, as this is when the plant gets vigorous. Before the party starts, however, you will have to find a nice sharp knife or very good garden snips.

You want your Philodendron stem cuttings to be around 5 inches (12.5 cm) in length for optimal results, especially if you are dealing with a leggy plant. With the chosen tool, cut as many stems as you want off your vine. This process requires you to take cuttings just above a leaf node at a 45-degree angle with about two or three leaves attached to them. First of all, this will allow your beloved Philodendron to produce more leaves and shoots from the cut point. On the other hand, the cuttings will have plenty of room to form their new roots. If you have any leaves near the bottom of your cuttings, you should trim them off right away.

From now on, propagating Philodendrons through cuttings goes in two different directions. You can root the cuttings in either water or directly in soil without affecting the results in any way. The choice is entirely yours and you can even use both of these options if you are the curious type.

Method 1 – Propagating Philodendrons In Water

Fill a container (usually a jar or a glass) with fresh water. You can use tap water, but just to make sure everything works nicely, we highly recommend you opt for distilled, room-temperature water instead. This particular type of water will help you avoid dealing with chemicals that may affect the overall health of your Philodendron cuttings.

You can use a container for three to four cuttings. Place the cuttings in their containers and keep the nodes fully submerged in water for the fastest root development out there. Move the jars or glasses to a location where the Philodendron cuttings can get plenty of bright, but indirect sunlight.

It would be wise to change the water once every few days to create a constantly fresh propagation medium. If you are doing this properly, your Philodendron cuttings should come back with roots after several weeks or so. You can transplant the cuttings in their individual pots when you notice a robust, one-inch (2.5 cm) root system.

As with the glass container, you can also plant the Philodendron cuttings in pairs of three to four specimens. Fill as many pots as you need with fresh potting soil. You can use a regular houseplant mix that features very sharp drainage. The pots should be around 3 to 4 inches (7.5-10 cm) in diameter to spoil the cuttings with enough room to grow as they please.

Plant the pairs of Philodendron cuttings in their containers, then water their growing medium until it becomes damp to the touch. After this, water the cuttings again to keep them constantly well-watered. This watering routine will help the new plants to adapt to their new environment in little to no time. Keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light and enjoy their presence as individual Philodendron plants for as long as you can.

Method 2 – Propagating Philodendrons In Soil

If you want to skip all the root-in-water parts, we have great news – you can absolutely do it! Propagating your Philodendron plant through stem cuttings directly in the soil will help you save a few more extra weeks of waiting for new, mesmerizing plants.

This method is pretty similar in execution to the one presented earlier. However, you need to get through some extra steps for this one, as the plants won’t get the same amount of moisture as they would when rooting in water.

Once you have the Philodendron cuttings, it would be great to dip their cut ends in a rooting hormone. You can use a commercial rooting hormone or, if you want something on the greener side, try dipping the cuttings in cinnamon. Doing this before you plant the cuttings in the soil will promote better and much faster rooting in general.

When you finish with the rooting hormone, you can start preparing the propagation medium for your Philodendron cuttings. As in the first method, you must fill a pot of 3 to 4 inches (7.5-10 cm) wide with fresh houseplant soil for each pair of 3-4 cuttings you have. Plant the cuttings in their containers, water them well, and then move them in a bright, indirect-lit spot. Make sure you maintain their soil constantly damp and, in a few weeks, you should expect new growth and roots.

Starting Your Own Philodendron from Seed

We must say from the very beginning that starting your own Philodendron plants from seed takes a while to show spectacular results. Still, the process is an interesting experience and it can definitely become a fun and rewarding hobby with time! And if you are doing this right, you will surely end up with quite a few showy Philodendrons.

First, you will have to prepare the propagation medium for the Philodendron seeds. Fill a planter of your choice, whether it be a pot or a tray, with some well-draining potting mix, and try to make it moist but not soggy.

With many species of plants, soaking the seeds is a mandatory process if you want to have the best results out there. This is not the case for Philodendron seeds, as they can germinate just fine without soaking them in water. Yet, the process can be pretty helpful in case you do not want to get too old until some seedlings decide to show up. You can pour some warm water into a jar, place the seeds in, and allow them to sit in water for one or two days.

Once the soaking period has ended, you must sow the seeds about 2 inches (5 cm) apart from each other. Cover the container with plastic wrap or a plastic bag to maintain the ideal levels of humidity for germination. The seeds should experience temperatures around 70 F (). Make sure you check the propagation medium regularly to prevent it from drying out too much. Keeping the soil moist is always the key solution for better germination, which should start after a few months.

When you notice some seedlings emerging, this is an indicator that you can start hardening them up. First things first, remove the plastic covering regularly for increasing periods. Eventually, you can get rid of the covering for good and mist the seedlings to keep the humidity levels at preferred values. During this period, you will still have to water the Philodendron seedlings whenever the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch. As the seedlings grow, you can start letting the substrate dry out a little more in-between drinks.

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Propagating Philodendron Through Division

If you are the lucky owner of a bushy and healthy Philodendron, you can take the opportunity to propagate it by dividing its roots. This plant already has a healthy root system, so the only thing you should worry about is transplant shock. But there is a trick that will help you ameliorate the transplant shock – water your plant thoroughly before dividing it. This process will also loosen the soil, which is great for a plant with messy roots like this buddy right here.

When your Philodendron plant is ready, you can remove it from its container, and then split it into sections. Depending on the maturity of your companion, you can divide it into sections of two or three shoots. After this, you can replant the mother plant in its pot.

The divided Philodendron shoots must go in their individual pots filled with well-draining houseplant potting soil. Water them a bit after the transplanting part to give them a nice boost in their new home. Easy like that!

Philodendron Growing Tips and Tricks

• Philodendrons are perfect houseplants because of their air-purifying qualities – these versatile plants can remove formaldehyde gases from the air.
• Philodendrons will thrive in your home if you manage to mimic their natural habitat – a tropical rainforest. This is not as difficult as it might sound as you will just have to provide your plants with plenty of warmth and moisture. A sunny windowsill is a perfect place for your philodendrons.
• During the warm season, you can take your philodendron plants outdoors, in a sheltered location, where they will get to enjoy the warmth and fresh air. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of the philodendron, so make sure you protect it, especially in the afternoon.
• Philodendrons have large leaves and it is quite common for them to get covered in dust. It’s recommended to clean the plant’s leaves with a soft damp cloth to ensure that the plants can absorb as much light as they need.
• Philodendron plants are not very susceptible to pests and diseases, but it is not uncommon for thrips, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and scale to show up once in a while. To keep your plants healthy, make sure you avoid keeping your plants in soggy soil, avoid overcrowding your plants, and ensure they get plenty of light. If you notice a pest infestation, you can treat the plants with neem oil or natural insecticidal solutions. Aphid infestations can be removed by simply washing the aphids off of your plants.
• In terms of soil, Philodendrons thrive in loose potting soil that is nourishing and rich in organic matter. Like most ornamental houseplants, philodendrons also require soil that has very good drainage to prevent root rot. If you grow your plants indoors in containers, it is recommended to change the soil and repot your plant every couple of years.
• Repotting philodendrons can be a fun activity and a nice opportunity for you to change the old containers with prettier ones. The ideal time to report philodendron plants is in late spring or early summer. If your plant outgrew its current container, choose a slightly larger one. It is very important for the containers in which you keep your Philodendrons to have drainage holes at the bottom, so make sure you don’t forget about this aspect. If you’re not sure whether your plant needs repotting, check the bottom of its current container. If the roots are sticking out through the drainage holes, it means that the root ball would be grateful with a roomier container. Repotting Philodendrons is an easy and straightforward activity – all you have to do is carefully and gently remove the plant from the old container, add fresh soil to the new container, put the plant in the new container, and water it generously.
• Philodendrons can be sensitive to salt build-up in their soil due to repeated watering. This phenomenon can lead to yellowing leaves, so it’s important to water the container and soak the soil periodically until water comes out of the drainage holes. You can do so by placing your plants in the shower and giving them a generous watering. Don’t forget to allow the water to drain before placing the containers in their regular spot.
• Philodendrons are moderate plants when it comes to their watering needs. They are not as drought-resistant as succulents and cacti, but they don’t need daily watering either. So, the best way to know when to water your philodendrons is by checking their soil. If the top inch of the soil is dry, you can add more water.
• Overwatering and underwatering are common issues that can easily be avoided by adjusting your watering schedule to the surrounding environment. The ‘soak and dry’ watering technique is extremely helpful not just for philodendrons but also for most ornamental plants.
• Another important aspect of growing Philodendrons that can also help with your propagation efforts is pruning. These ornamentals can become a bit leggy and this problem can easily be solved with a little pruning. You can use a pair of sterilised scissors or pruning shears to give your plants a nice trim and you can use the cuttings to create more plants. The best time for Philodendron pruning is in spring and summer.
• As we previously mentioned, Philodendrons are tropical plants, and if you already own other tropical plants you might know that overwintering is an important part of their annual growth routine. So, if you don’t live in a tropical region, you might want to adjust your caring routine to match the changing seasons. As the days become shorter, your plant will get less natural light. This is when you should reduce watering a bit. This does not mean that you need to stop watering your plants, only that you should pay attention as your plant might not absorb as much moisture as it did during the summer.
• If you kept your Philodendron outdoors during the warm months, check it for insects, pests, and potential diseases before bringing it back inside. This is an important step in preventing plant pests from spreading to your other houseplants.
• The only issue with the philodendron family of plants is the fact that they are quite toxic to humans, dogs and cats. Philodendrons are not the most poisonous plants out there, but humans and animals can develop all sorts of digestive issues if they ingest the plant.

In Conclusion

No matter what method you choose to propagate your Philodendron with, it will reward you back with more exquisite plants and lots of fun along the way. And the best part is that all methods require no prior experience in the gardening world. You can expect beautiful results even if you are at the beginning of the road. All you need is just a bit of courage and, of course, a Philodendron!

Article Sources

1. https://www.britannica.com/plant/Philodendron
2. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/philodendron-pothos-monstera/
3. https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/heartleaf-philodendron.html

The post How to Propagate Philodendron: Complete Beginner’s Guide appeared first on GardenBeast.

Colocasia esculenta, commonly known as taro is a root vegetable from the Araceae family that is native to Southern India and Southeast Asia, but nowadays it can be found growing spontaneously in other various regions worldwide. The taro plant is used as a vegetable for its leaves, corms and petioles, but it is also grown as an ornamental plant thanks to its dramatic foliage.

The most important edible part of the plant – the taro corms are commonly used in the cuisine of African, Oceanic and South Asian cultures. Colocasia esculenta is thought to be one of the earliest cultivated plants.

Despite its culinary uses, one thing that you have to be aware of when considering growing taro is that according to the Humane Society of America, the Colocasia plant can be toxic to pets. In fact, taro is mildly toxic when raw as all parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate, which is an irritant. The good news is that this toxin is completely destroyed through cooking.

However, when ingested raw, the plant may cause health issues such as respiratory problems, mouth pain, and digestive problems. The taro plant can also cause skin rashes, so make sure you handle it with care and keep it out of your kids’ and pets’ reach.

Quick Facts

About Taro

• In Ancient Greek the word kolokasion meant “lotus root” and it is the origin of the modern Greek word kolokasi. The word was borrowed in Latin as “colocasia” and that is how the genus name Colocasia was formed.
• When the Swedish botanist, Carl Linnaeus first started to study this plant, he described two main species, Colocasia esculenta and Colocasia antiquorum. But later on, botanists considered them to be members of a single species and the initial name was changed to Colocasia esculenta. The botanical name “esculenta” comes from a Latin word which meant “edible”.
• There are many types of taro plants which are grown for their ornamental characteristics. Some examples include Giant Taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), Swamp Taro (Cyrtosperma merkusii) and Arrowleaf elephant’s ears (Xanthosoma sagittifolium).
• Colocasia esculenta also comes with many attractive varieties in colour such as “Bun Long” or “Elepaio” which produce nice roots, and “Blue Hawaii”, “Black Magic”, and “Hilo Beauty” which produce attractive foliage and have great ornamental value.
• In the English language, the word “taro” was borrowed from the Maori language after Capitan Cook became familiar with the Colocasia esculenta plantations in 1769.
• In Cyprus, the colocasia plant has been in use since the Roman Empire. Nowadays the plant is known as “kolokasi” and is frequently used in recipes with celery, pork or chicken together with tomato sauce. The baby kolokasi is known as “poulles” and is also used in a large variety of traditional dishes with coriander, red wine or lemon.
• In the Philippines, taro is used as an aromatic plant and it is very popular as a flavour for milk tea, but it is used in savoury dishes too.
• Colocasia esculenta is grown commercially as a food crop in Hawaii where it is commonly called taro and it is used to make poi, a traditional dish that has an important role in the Polynesian diet.
• In Indonesia, on the Mentawai Islands and for Melanesians in Irian Java, Taro is an important food source. The plant is cultivated, but not as extensively, in Bali and Java.
• The taro plant can be grown as an ornamental plant and in the gardening world, it is often referred to as “elephant ears”. It is one of the most widely grown species in its group of tropical perennial plants.
• As an ornamental plant, Taro is somewhat similar to Alocasia, which also goes by the common name Elephant Ear plant, but the main difference between the two plants is that the foliage of Alocasia points upwards, while the foliage of the taro points upwards and tends to droop.
• Colocasia esculenta thrives in humusy, fertile, organically rich, medium to wet, but also well-draining soils. To grow healthy and happy, this plant will require full sun or partial shade. In very hot climates, afternoon shade will be greatly appreciated by your Taro plants.
• When you grow Taro in the garden, make sure you provide it with regular moisture, especially during the hot season, when it would be best to avoid letting the soil dry out completely.
• Taro plants can also thrive in pond gardens where you can grow them as pond marginals in up to 15 cm (6 inches) of standing water.
• Colocasia esculenta plants produce large leaves that have great ornamental value, so it is recommended to plant them in a location where they will be protected from strong winds.

Taro Features: An Overview

• Colocasia esculenta is a perennial, tropical plant which was initially grown as a root vegetable valued for its edible, starchy corm. The plant has rhizomes that come in a great variety of shapes and sizes.
• Taro grows from one meter in height to one and a half meters, with a large, fleshy corm at the base and in lateral has thick, edible runners.
• The Taro leaves can grow up to 40×24.8 cm in size and sprout from the rhizome. The upper part of the leaf is dark green, while the underside is light green. The leaf shape is triangular-ovate, sub-rounded and mucronate at the apex, with the tip of the basal lobes rounded or sub-rounded. The margins may be more or less wavy with a submarginal collecting vein. The stalk that joins the leaf to the stem, measures from 0.8 to 1.2 m high. The path can be up to 25 m long.
• The flowers of Taro are smaller than the bracts, with flowering parts reaching up to 8 mm in diameter. The flower is flexing open near the base and then deflecting and dropping at the top. Generally, the colour of Taro flowers varies from pale yellow to orange.
• The fruit produced by Colocasia esculenta is a berry loaded with many seeds, densely packed and forming a fruiting head.
• Colocasia esculenta makes a great companion plant for tropical ornamentals and flowering plants that have similar needs such as Canna, New Zealand Flac or Blue Marguerite.
• Being a useful food crop, Taro was introduced to many tropical and subtropical regions and, unfortunately, it escaped from cultivated areas into natural areas where it becomes a threat to the ecosystem so in some regions it is considered invasive. In Australia, Taro is considered invasive in Queensland, New South Wales and south-western Western Australia. It is also listed as an invasive plant in the Galapagos, Hawaii, the Juan Fernandez Islands, the Marshall Islands, French Polynesia, and the Kermadec Islands, in parts of the Caribbean and the Americas.

Growing Taro

Colocasia esculenta needs a worm environment, humidity and moist soil in order to properly develop. If  you plan on growing Taro outside, keep in mind that this plant requires dappled shade and moist, rich soil. However, you can also plant it in a plastic container that you can bring back indoors in autumn.

If you intend to grow Colocasia esculenta as a house plant, you will need to ensure that it gets plenty of bright but indirect sunlight and a moderate to high level of humidity, like a steamy bathroom or conservatory. You need to know that colocasia will lose its foliage in winter if the temperatures drop below 21°C (70°F). Regardless of where you are growing your plant, it is recommended to apply a balanced liquid fertiliser feed monthly when the plant is in the growth stage.

Another important aspect to take into consideration is that Colocasia will not survive frosts so, in autumn, dig the plant up, cut off the foliage and store the tubers in a cool but frost-free and dry place, set in dry peat or wood shavings, over the winter months.

In early spring you can replant the tubers in a warm place indoors or in a greenhouse. If you grow these plants in USDA Zones 8-11, you can leave the tubers in the ground year-round. If you are growing your colocasia in a pot, the whole process is much easier as you will only have to bring it indoors and enjoy it as a house plant over the winter.

In order to maintain the desired size and shape of the Taro plant, prune it freely. Pinching plants back makes them dense and bushy and it encourages the appearance of more flowers. After the flowers fade, remove them to keep the plant healthy and prevent seed production that consumes the plant’s energy and prevents it from forming new flowers.

Generally, the pests that may affect the taro plant are armyworms, white-spotted flea beetle, aphids, whitefly, lace bug, thrips or hawk moth so it is advised to control the plant from time to time. These insects attack many parts of the plant and cause serious damage to your plant. So keep an eye on any signs that insects may leave on your plant.

A common problem that can affect the plant is stress – this can happen due to underwatering or sudden temperature changes. Stress can impact the growth and health of taro plants and it can make the plant more susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid these issues, water and fertilize your plants regularly and keep them in a spot with consistently warm temperatures. The first sign of underwatering is the leaves’ tendency to wilt and curl up.

Planting Taro

Before planting the Colocasia esculenta plant, prepare your garden by breaking up the existing soil. After that, enrich the soil with organic matter such as manure, peat moss or garden compost until the soil is loosened and very easy to work with. The organic ingredients help to improve drainage, add nutrients and encourage earthworms and organisms that keep soil healthy.

When you plant the colocasia esculenta take into consideration the fact that if you want to grow many plants you will need a bigger area as the plants need light and space to grow. If you will plant them crowded, the plants will have fewer blooms and weak growth.

In the next stage of the plantation, you will need the seedlings. If they are stored in individual plastic containers, just squeeze the outside just a little so that the plant comes undamaged. The hole needs to be up to two times larger than the root ball and deep enough so that the plant will stay at the same level in the ground as it was at the soil level from the container. Gently grasp the roots of the plant, pull them apart and then plant them.

After planting the seedlings, push the soil lightly around the roots and take care to fill all the empty spaces around the root ball. Push the soil that surrounds the plant down with your hand or you can use any flat gardening tool to tamp the area. The soil that covers the plant hole has to be even with the surrounding soil or up to 3 cm higher than the top of the root ball.

If you are planting Colocasia in a pot, choose a large one (approximately 25 cm, with drainage holes) and plant it in multi-purpose peat-free compost. Also if you plant Colocasia corms in a pot, be sure to put them with the pointed side facing up. The tip of the tuber should be a couple of centimetres below the soil surface. You can keep the new plantings on a sunny window or in a warm greenhouse.

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Watering Taro

When it comes to new plantings, keep in mind that they usually need more attention when it comes to water as they need to be watered daily for a couple of weeks. After this stage, depending on the weather and soil type, you can adjust the frequency with which you will water them every two or three days. If the soil is sandy then you will have to water them more often, while if the soil holds moisture longer, like the clay soils, the plant will enjoy the water for a larger period of time.

Generally, water should only be applied to the root area and not to the entire plant. If you want to keep your Taro plant healthy and reduce water loss through evaporation, you can take into consideration purchasing a soaker hose.

Another best way to water them is by using a watering wand with a sprinkler head attached. If you have colocasia esculenta planted in a larger area, a sprinkler is the best. Try to water your plants in the morning so that the plant foliage has time to dry through the day. If the plant remains moist it may encourage disease and mould that can weaken or damage your plants.

If you are not sure whether you need to water or not your colocasia esculenta plants, check the soil moisture and use your finger or a small trowel to dig in and evaluate the soil. If the first 5 to 10 cm of soil is dry, it means that is time for watering.

Harvesting Taro

As they reach maturity, Taro foliage starts to turn yellow and die off. According to experienced Taro growers, this indicates that it is time to harvest the tubers. As mentioned above, in warm climates, taro can stay in the ground until the frost comes, so you don’t have to stress about harvesting them or rush the process. The Taro tubers can only be harvested once from a plant, so you will have to replant if you wish to enjoy these plants again next year.

To harvest the Taro tubers, grab the plant preferably wearing gardening gloves, slightly lift it, chop off the leaves, and clean off the soil. In most cases, a Taro plant will produce one big tuber and several smaller ones. You can either eat the small tubers as well or save them for the following season.

You might be tempted to think that taro tubers are similar to potatoes, but there is an important difference between these two types of tubers. Taro tubers will soften much quicker than potatoes after being harvested, so make sure you plan ahead before you harvest as you will need to eat them pretty quickly. The best way to store Taro tubers is in a dark, dry, and aerated place, but not in the refrigerator). Taro leaves, however, can be stored in the fridge for up to one week.

As previously mentioned, all parts of the Taro plant are toxic when raw due to calcium oxalates. To make them edible, you can roast, bake, fry, or boil them. You can cook them in similar ways you would cook potatoes, but experienced Taro growers advise against mashing them.

If you harvested your Taro tubers and realized that you can’t possibly eat them all, you can keep them in the freezer. Cook the taro roots by blanching them, place them in airtight containers, and store them in your freezer.

Propagating Taro

The easiest way to propagate Colocasia esculenta is through rhizomes. The first step is cutting the rhizomes into pieces that are at least 5 cm in length and have a minimum of one noticeable bud. The next step is to plant the rhizomes at approximately 13 cm deep in the soil. It is very important to maintain the entire area of soil moist during the process. It takes more or less 3 months for the plant to be sufficiently developed so that you can transplant it, but it can take a whole year for colocasia to reach maturity and bloom.

If you prefer to propagate colocasia in a home setting, you have to select a rhizome from the base of an existing plant and cut it off gently with a sharp knife. Avoid cutting any roots on the rhizome, what we want to achieve with this procedure, is to separate the rhizome completely from the parent plant. Immediately after you have divided the corms from the parent, plant them in a mixture of soil and compost and after that water generously. Now you can put find a place where there is plenty of indirect sunlight and airflow for your taro plant.

Colocasia esculenta may be propagated from seeds too, but this procedure can be challenging because seeds are rarely produced by the plant. Moreover, the time you will have to wait until for the entire process of germination and after that growing of the seedling until becoming a well-developed plant is longer. Because this type of plant propagation is more time-consuming, is avoided by many growers.

In Conclusion

Colocasia esculenta or the taro plant is a deeply rooted plant in the Southern Indian, African, Oceanic and Southeast Asian cultures. The Taro plant can be used as a vegetable for its leaves, corms and petioles and also as an ornamental plant for your home or garden.

When used in dishes, colocasia esculenta can make great additions to both sweet and savoury dishes. It is also used as a flavour for milk-based beverages in the Philippines. Although is a relatively easy plant to grow it has some special needs: it needs humidity, and the soil has to be moist constantly when the temperatures outdoors start to fall you will have to bring it in the house or in a warm greenhouse. Also, if the temperature in the house goes below 21°C the leaves may fall. So, even though Taro is not a difficult plant to grow, it is recommended to remember its few, but important demands.

Are you growing Colocasia esculenta a.k.a Taro? Share your experience in the comment section!

Colocasia Esculenta FAQS

Does Colocasia like full sun or shade?

Colocasia, or Elephant Ears, prefer partial shade, especially in hotter climates. However, they can tolerate full sun if they receive ample water to prevent the soil from drying out. In cooler climates, they can benefit from more sunlight.

How big do Colocasia esculenta get?

Colocasia esculenta, also known as Taro, can grow quite large. Depending on the specific variety and growing conditions, the plants can reach heights of 3 to 6 feet (and sometimes even taller). The individual leaves can be 2 to 3 feet long and wide, giving them their distinctive “elephant ear” appearance.

Is taro the same as elephant ears?

Yes, Taro refers to the plant Colocasia esculenta which is commonly called “Elephant Ears” because of its large, ear-shaped leaves. However, while “Elephant Ears” is a common name for several plants with large leaves, Taro specifically refers to Colocasia esculenta. Taro is also known for its edible corms, which are a staple in many tropical diets.

How do you overwinter Colocasia?

Here’s how to overwinter Colocasia:

• Before the First Frost: Before the first expected frost, dig up the Colocasia tubers with a shovel, being careful not to damage them.
• Clean and Dry: Gently remove excess soil and let the tubers dry for a day or two in a cool, dry place.
• Store in Peat Moss or Sawdust: Place the tubers in a box or container filled with slightly moist peat moss or sawdust. Ensure that the tubers are not touching each other to prevent rot.
• Cool and Dark Place: Store the container in a cool, dark place where temperatures stay between 50-60°F (10-15°C). Basements often work well for this purpose.
• Check Periodically: Throughout the winter, check the tubers occasionally for signs of rot or shriveling. If any tubers show signs of decay, remove them to prevent the spread to other tubers.
• Replant in Spring: When the danger of frost has passed in the spring, you can replant the tubers in the garden or pots.

Article Sources

1. https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/colocasia-esculenta/
2. https://www.nparks.gov.sg/florafaunaweb/flora/1/8/1835
3. https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=276338

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Alternanthera is a genus that contains about 80 to 200 spectacular species of flowering plants in the Amaranthaceae family. While most plants from this genus are native to the tropical areas of the Americas, some others occur in many regions of Australia, Africa, and Asia. They come with various common names, such as Joseph’s Coat, Joyweed, Copperleaf, Calico Plant, Parrot Leaf, and Bloodleaf.

Prized for their vibrant and attractive foliage, Joseph’s Coat plants have become pretty popular ornamentals worldwide. These buddies are gorgeous outdoor additions to beds, borders, cottage gardens, city gardens, and even aquatic gardens. Likewise, they make for great ornamental potted plants, adding a lovely dash of colour to any dull spot from your house.

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Quick Facts 

About Alternanthera Plants

• Some species of Alternanthera plants are noxious weeds, degrading their native habitat in a short time. A well-known cultivar of this type is the aquatic Aligator weed, which clogs waterways, increases flooding, and slows shipping.
• They are frost-tender plants that do well in full sunlight to partial shade. These plants prefer rich, well-draining soils and need lots of water to grow properly.
• Joseph’s Coat plants bring hundreds of superb varieties into the spotlight. The most interesting cultivars include ‘Firebug’, ‘Gali’s Choice’, ‘Little Ruby’, ‘Partytime’, ‘Purple Knight’, ‘Ruby Leaf’, ‘Snow on the Mountain’, and ‘Wavy Yellow’.
• In some parts of Asia and Africa, native people consume the leaves of both A. sessilis and A. philoxeroides species as vegetables in various culinary recipes. Some of these recipes are salads, sauces, soups, and relish.
• The A. sessilis cultivars play a big part in traditional medicine. Many folks use these plants as an excellent treatment for issues like stomach disorders, headache, vertigo, neuralgia, hernia, snakebites, bronchitis, asthma, hepatitis, bleeding, and others.
• Joseph’s Coat plants will look absolutely fabulous as companion plants to other charming species including Begonia, Cordyline, Caladium, Impatiens Balsamina, Petunia, or Coleus.
• They are not toxic to humans or animals if touched or ingested, so you can grow them safely around your curious kids and pets.

Alternanthera Plants Features: An Overview

• Depending on the species, Alternanthera plants can be either subshrubs or herbs. While most species are terrestrial plants, some of the well-known species are aquatic.
• Joseph’s Coat plants can take numerous forms, ranging from floating to erect to prostrate. They are annuals or perennials that can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in height and 1 to 3 feet (30-90 cm) in width.
• The leaves of Alternanthera plants can be either ovate, lanceolate, elliptic, rounded, or obtuse in shape. They may present soft hairs or slightly dentate margins and grow oppositely arranged on branched stems.
• The colours of their stunning foliage usually vary from one species to another. Alternanthera can appear in many shades of green, silver, pink, yellow, red, copper, purple, or burgundy. Some specimens can also present variegated foliage or leaves with colourful spots.
• Joseph’s coat plants generally bloom from autumn through winter. During this season, they exhibit insignificant sessile inflorescences with clusters of adorable, tiny, and white flowers.
• Once their blooming period has ended, Alternanthera plants bear fruits where blossoms once were. They are small, dry, bladder-like, yellow-brownish, and single-seeded fruits called utricles.

Growing Alternanthera Plants

As long as you can simulate their natural habitat at home, growing and caring for Alternanthera plants is a piece of cake. These plants are as low-demanding as most exotic plants, adding long-lasting interest in warmer areas worldwide. In northern climates, however, they will shine best as annual ornamentals. Now let’s see what these beauties truly need!

When it comes to light, Joseph’s Coat plants can do well in a wide range of conditions. These plants grow in hot and sunny environments, so they usually prefer locations with lots of sunlight. Still, they can also tolerate some dappled light to partial shade, but they may grow somewhat leggy and lose their vibrant colours with time. In general, their foliage will remain shiny and bright-coloured only under full sunlight exposure.

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Temperature-wise, Alternanthera species thrive in warm climates and cannot withstand freezing conditions. Because of this, you can grow these plants outdoors as perennials only in the USDA zones 10 to 11. However, they can do just fine as annuals in almost any other USDA zone out there. If you are the happy owner of dwarf specimens, it gets even better! You can grow your plants in pots and bring them inside once the weather gets cooler, usually in fall.

Although Joseph’s Coat plants are typically carefree regarding pests and diseases, some intruders might bother them once in a while. The most common pests that consider these plants attractive include spider mites, caterpillars, and slugs. In case of infestation, you can just handpick the pests and forget all of these ever happened. If you want to get rid of caterpillars naturally, you must use a mix of insecticidal soap and water on your plants.

Planting Alternanthera Plants

In terms of growing medium, Alternanthera plants will have the time of their life in a fertile substrate that is rich in nutrients and organic matter. This particular type of soil will provide your plants with the nutrients needed and with the ideal drainage they require. They generally perform best in slightly acidic to neutral soils.

Make sure you plant your companions in well-draining soil and, for potted plants, look for containers that have drainage holes at the bottom. If you want to grow your Alternanthera plants in the garden, do not forget to amend the soil with plenty of compost or organic matter before planting.

In case you manage to plant your Joseph’s Coat plants in rich soil, they will not need any supplemental fertilizing. In general, too much fertilizer can burn these plants and eventually kill them. In poor soil, however, your plants will require some little extra help from their beloved owner. The ideal fertilizer for them is a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as a fish emulsion.

For optimal results, feed your potted Alternanthera plants once every two or three weeks during the summer months. For outdoor in-ground specimens, it is more than enough to fertilize these plants once every two months.

In summer, regular pruning is highly recommended. Pruning will prevent your Joseph’s Coat plants from becoming all leggy and messy. This process consists of removing all unhealthy leaves or branches to make room for new ones to show up. You can also trim some healthy stems off your plants to use them as propagation material.

Watering Alternanthera Plants

Alternanthera plants are native to humid areas, so they are big lovers of moisture. What keeps these plants in their best shape is, of course, a regular watering routine. However, soggy conditions or waterlogging can result in root rot and will kill your beloved plants with time. But do not worry, gardener! We have everything you need to avoid this from happening!

In general, Joseph’s Coat plants require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water to grow healthy and happy. Because of this, you should allow the top layer of soil to dry out completely before watering your plants again.  In addition, we recommend you add a layer of mulch to your garden-grown plants to better maintain the moisture in the soil.

Whether you grow these plants indoors or outdoors, you must water them less often in winter. During this season, they can do just fine with a nice touch of water whenever the top 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of soil feels dry to the touch.

Joseph’s Coat plants can also suffer if you happen to under-water them. When these plants receive less water than needed, they will typically begin to wilt. Do not panic, though! Your buddies will bring their vitality back once you provide them with a good drink.

Propagating Alternanthera Plants

The foliage of Alternanthera plants is so eye-catching that it is almost impossible to resist it! Because of this, it is more than obvious that you want to keep these plants by your side for as long as possible. Well, we come along with great news! You can propagate your beautiful plants through cuttings or division very easy and the results will be according to your expectations.

The best time to take cuttings from your Joseph’s Coat plants is in spring or late summer. For optimal results, the cuttings must have about two inches (5 cm) in length. Once you have the cuttings, you should place them in water until new roots begin to show up. When the cuttings develop their roots properly, you can plant them in moist soil and care for them as for the mother plants.

To propagate your Joseph’s Coat plants through division, you must first equip yourself with a good old spade. Once you have it, you must dig your plants out of the soil and divide their roots into two or three sections. Make sure that each root section has at least one stem emerging from it. After this step, you can transplant the sections into their permanent locations and care for them as usual.

Do not forget to plant some of your baby Alternanthera plants in pots! They can make for cute gifts for your plant-lovers family members or friends, so you cannot miss the opportunity to surprise them!

In Conclusion

Joseph’s Coat plants are one of our favorite ornamentals, so we would be more than pleased to know about your experience with them! It does not matter if you are the owner of these beauties already or you are thinking about getting one in the future. Just share your thoughts with us in the comment section!

Alternanthera Plants FAQS

Does Alternanthera come back every year?

Alternanthera species can be either annuals or perennials. In warmer climates (USDA zones 10 to 11), they can grow as perennials and come back every year. However, in northern climates, they are often grown as annual ornamentals, meaning they do not come back the following year.

Does Alternanthera need sun?

Yes, Alternanthera plants do well in full sunlight. They thrive in hot and sunny environments. While they can tolerate some dappled light to partial shade, they may become leggy and lose some of their vibrant colors in less than optimal light conditions.

What is the common name of Alternanthera in English?

Alternanthera has several common names in English, including Joseph’s Coat, Joyweed, Copperleaf, Calico Plant, Parrot Leaf, and Bloodleaf.

Is Alternanthera easy to grow?

Yes, as long as you can simulate their natural habitat, Alternanthera plants are relatively easy to grow. They are as low-demanding as most exotic plants and can add long-lasting interest in various settings, especially in warmer areas. Proper light, water, and soil conditions are key to their successful cultivation.

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