Are you looking for a sustainable way to improve the health of your garden soil? Consider worm farming! Not only is this a cost-effective and efficient way to improve soil fertility, but it also helps to reduce food waste. In this step-by-step guide, we’ll take you through the process of setting up and maintaining your own worm farm, as well as outlining the numerous benefits that come with it.

Quick Facts

Understanding Worm Farming

What is Worm Farming?

Worm farming, also known as vermicomposting, is the process of using red worms to break down organic waste materials into nutrient-rich fertilizer for your garden. Red worms are part of a specific species called Eisenia fetida, which feed on decaying organic matter. This process of decomposition results in worm castings, a highly valuable and nutrient-rich soil amendment.

Worm farming is a sustainable and eco-friendly way to dispose of organic waste while also producing a valuable resource for your garden. By using worms to break down organic matter, you are diverting waste from landfills and reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Plus, worm castings are a natural and chemical-free way to fertilize your plants, making them healthier and more productive.

Types of Worms for Farming

Red worms are the most popular worms used in worm farming due to their feeding habits and high reproductive rate. They are also easy to care for and can thrive in a variety of conditions. Other species such as African Nightcrawlers can also be used, but they have specific requirements like warmer temperatures and more significant feeding requirements.

When choosing worms for your worm farm, it’s essential to consider your specific needs and the conditions in which you will be keeping them. Red worms are a great all-around choice, but if you live in a warmer climate, African Nightcrawlers may be a better option.

The Role of Worms in Soil Health

Worms are critical to soil health and provide crucial benefits such as:

• Improving soil structure and aeration, allowing for better water and nutrient absorption by roots.
• Breaking down organic matter, increasing nutrient availability in the soil.
• Improving soil porosity and water-holding capacity, reducing erosion and nutrient runoff.

Worms are also an indicator of soil health. If you have a healthy population of worms in your soil, it’s a good sign that your soil is fertile and well-balanced. Worms help to create a healthy and thriving ecosystem in your soil, which is essential for the growth and health of your plants.

Overall, worm farming is an excellent way to improve the health of your garden while also reducing waste and greenhouse gas emissions. By understanding the role of worms in soil health and choosing the right worms for your needs, you can create a sustainable and thriving garden ecosystem.

Benefits of Worm Farming

Worm farming, also known as vermiculture, is a sustainable and natural way of improving soil health and fertility. It involves using worms to break down organic waste and create nutrient-rich soil amendments for your garden. Here are some of the benefits of worm farming:

Improved Soil Structure and Fertility

One of the most significant benefits of worm farming is the improvement of soil structure and fertility. Worm castings, also known as vermicompost, are rich in essential nutrients that plants require to grow and produce healthy yields. These nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and calcium, are released gradually, providing sustainable long-term benefits for your garden. The improved soil structure and porosity created by worm castings allow better root penetration and water penetration, creating a healthy soil environment that encourages healthy plant growth and increases yield.

Natural Waste Recycling

Worm farming is an excellent way to recycle organic waste naturally. Instead of sending food waste and other organic matter to landfills, you can feed them to worms and create valuable soil amendments for your garden. By reducing the amount of organic waste sent to landfills, worm farming helps to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and pollution. Worm farming is an environmentally friendly way to reduce waste and create a sustainable garden.

Pest Control and Disease Prevention

Worm farming also helps control pests and diseases in your garden. The nutrient-rich soil created by worm castings encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms, fungi, and bacteria in the soil. These organisms help to prevent the growth of pathogenic bacteria and fungi that cause diseases in plants. Additionally, the castings may contain plant growth hormones, which promote the growth of healthy plants. By using worm castings in your garden, you can reduce the need for chemical pesticides and herbicides, creating a safer and more sustainable garden environment.

Increased Plant Growth and Yield

By nourishing your plants with nutrient-rich soil, worm castings help to increase plant growth and yield. The gradual release of nutrients over time means that you get better absorption, resulting in stronger root systems, and improved plant growth and yield. Additionally, worm castings increase soil porosity and water-holding capacity, which help plants during dry or drought seasons. By using worm castings in your garden, you can create a more sustainable and productive garden environment.

In conclusion, worm farming is an excellent way to improve soil health and fertility, recycle organic waste, control pests and diseases, and increase plant growth and yield. By using worm castings in your garden, you can create a sustainable and productive garden environment that benefits both you and the environment.

Setting Up Your Worm Farm

Worm farming is an excellent way to reduce your household waste while producing organic compost for your garden. Worms are efficient decomposers that can turn your kitchen scraps, garden waste, and other organic materials into nutrient-rich compost. Setting up a worm farm is relatively easy, and it can be done in a small space like your balcony or backyard.

Choosing the Right Location

When choosing the location for your worm farm, consider the weather conditions in your area. Worms thrive in temperatures between 15°C and 25°C, making shaded areas the ideal location. Direct sunlight can dry out the worm farm, while extreme temperatures can kill the worms. Your worm farm should also be in an easily accessible location, making it easy to feed and maintain.

If you live in an apartment, you can set up your worm farm indoors in a closet or under the sink. Ensure that the location is well ventilated to prevent unpleasant odors from building up.

Selecting a Worm Farming System

There are several worm farming systems to choose from, depending on your needs and preferences. The most common systems include boxes, bins, and barrels. Boxes are the most popular and come in different sizes, making them ideal for small-scale worm farming. Bins are larger and can accommodate more worms, making them suitable for larger households or commercial purposes. Barrels are also a good option for large-scale worm farming.

Regardless of the system you choose, ensure that it has proper ventilation, drainage, and insulation. The system should have a capacity that meets your composting needs, and the worms should have enough space to reproduce as necessary.

Preparing the Bedding Material

The bedding material serves as a home for your worms and provides them with adequate space to move around and reproduce. You can use a combination of materials like shredded newspaper, cardboard, coconut coir, or peat moss in a ratio of about 4:1 with water added to ensure that the bedding material is moist enough. Make sure that the bedding material is not too wet or dry, as this will affect the worms’ health and reproduction.

It’s essential to add some grit to the bedding material to aid in the worms’ digestion process. You can use crushed eggshells, sand, or finely ground rock dust as grit.

Before adding the worms, allow the bedding material to sit for a few days to stabilize the temperature and moisture levels. Once the bedding material is ready, add the worms and some organic waste to start the composting process.

Setting up a worm farm is a great way to reduce your carbon footprint and produce organic compost for your garden. With the right location, system, and bedding material, you can create a thriving worm farm that will benefit both you and the environment.

Feeding Your Worms

Worm farming is a fantastic way to reduce waste and create nutrient-rich soil for your garden. Feeding your worms the right foods is crucial to their health and the success of your worm farm.

What to Feed Your Worms

Worms are not picky eaters and will consume a wide range of organic matter. Some of the best foods to feed your worms include fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, and yard waste. These materials are rich in nutrients and easy for worms to digest.

When feeding your worms, it’s important to avoid certain foods. Citrus and oily foods should be avoided as they tend to attract fruit flies and other pests. Dairy products should also be avoided as they can cause the worm bin to become smelly and attract unwanted visitors.

How Often to Feed Your Worms

The frequency of feeding your worms depends on several factors, including the amount of organic waste available, the number of worms you have, and the capacity of your worm farm system. It’s essential to ensure that the organic matter provided is in small quantities and does not exceed the number of worms in your worm farm. Overfeeding your worms can lead to a build-up of excess food, which can cause the worm bin to become smelly and attract pests.

It’s best to start by feeding your worms small amounts of food and gradually increasing the quantity as they adjust to their new environment. As a general rule, worms can consume up to half their weight in food each day. However, it’s essential to monitor your worm bin and adjust the feeding schedule as needed.

Foods to Avoid

While worms can consume a variety of organic matter, there are certain foods and materials that should be avoided. Meat products, dairy, oily or greasy foods, fats, and citrus fruits should never be fed to worms. These materials are harmful to the worm’s health and can cause the worm bin to become smelly and attract pests.

It’s also important to avoid feeding your worms materials that contain chemicals, such as pesticides or herbicides. These chemicals can harm the worms and contaminate the soil.

Conclusion

Now that you have an understanding of worm farming and the benefits it has to offer, consider implementing it in your garden. With efficient maintenance practices and the right conditions, worm farming can provide a cost-effective and sustainable way of enhancing soil fertility, waste recycling, pest prevention, and increased crop yield. Don’t be afraid to experiment and watch your garden thrive!

Remember, worm farming is not only an excellent way to reduce waste and create nutrient-rich soil, but it’s also a fun and educational activity for the whole family. Kids love learning about worms and watching them work their magic in the worm bin. So why not give it a try and see the benefits for yourself?

Worm Farming FAQS

How profitable is worm farming?

The profitability of worm farming can vary greatly based on factors such as the scale of your operation, your market, and your operational costs. Small-scale worm farms can generate a modest profit selling worm castings, worms, and worm tea to local gardeners and farmers. On a larger scale, businesses selling to a broader market can generate significant revenue. It’s also important to factor in the indirect cost savings from waste management and improved soil fertility.

How do I start a worm farm?

To start a worm farm, you’ll need to:

• Choose a suitable location: Worms thrive in temperatures between 15°C and 25°C, in shaded areas away from direct sunlight.
• Select a worm farming system: This could be a box, bin, or barrel, with proper ventilation, drainage, and insulation.
• Prepare the bedding material: This can include shredded newspaper, cardboard, coconut coir, or peat moss, combined with water to create a moist environment.
• Purchase the worms: Red worms (Eisenia fetida) are most commonly used.
  Begin feeding your worms: They can consume a wide range of organic matter, but avoid citrus, oily foods, and dairy products.
• Remember to monitor and maintain your worm farm regularly for best results.

How much do worm farmers make a year?

Income from worm farming can vary widely based on the scale of operation and the market. Small-scale worm farmers selling directly to local customers might make a few thousand dollars a year, while larger operations selling worms, worm castings, and worm tea on a commercial scale can generate significantly more income. Exact figures depend on factors like pricing, production costs, market demand, and business expenses.

What is worm farming called?

Worm farming is also known as vermicomposting. This term comes from the Latin “vermi,” which means worm, so vermicomposting essentially means composting with worms. The process involves using worms, typically red wigglers, to consume organic waste and convert it into nutrient-rich compost that can be used as a soil amendment.

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If you are a homeowner looking to create a beautiful and green space in your yard, a rain garden might be the perfect solution. Not only do rain gardens add aesthetic appeal, but they also have numerous environmental benefits. In this article, we will dive into the world of rain gardens, their benefits, and how you can create one yourself.

Quick Facts

Understanding Rain Gardens

Before we get started on the benefits of rain gardens, it’s important to understand what they are and how they work.

What is a Rain Garden?

A rain garden is a shallow depression in the ground that is specifically designed to capture and absorb rainwater runoff from hard surfaces, such as roofs and roads. The purpose of a rain garden is to reduce the amount of water that flows into storm drains and eventually into local streams and rivers. This helps to prevent flooding, erosion, and water pollution. Rain gardens are typically filled with a variety of plants that can tolerate both wet and dry conditions, making them an eco-friendly alternative to traditional lawns.

One of the key benefits of rain gardens is that they can help to recharge groundwater supplies. When rainwater is absorbed into the ground through a rain garden, it replenishes the underground aquifers that provide drinking water for many communities.

How Do Rain Gardens Work?

When it rains, the water runs off of hard surfaces and into the rain garden, where it then soaks into the ground and is naturally filtered by the plants and soil. The plants in the rain garden help to absorb excess nutrients and pollutants from the water, which helps to improve water quality. The soil in the rain garden also acts as a natural filter, removing sediment and other contaminants from the water before it enters local waterways.

Another benefit of rain gardens is that they can help to reduce the amount of water that flows into sewer systems during heavy rainstorms. This can help to prevent sewer overflows, which can lead to backups and water pollution.

Types of Rain Gardens

There are two main types of rain gardens: in-ground and above-ground. In-ground rain gardens are dug into the ground and are the most common type. They are typically designed to be shallow, with a depth of around 6 inches to 2 feet. The size and shape of the rain garden will depend on the amount of runoff that it needs to capture, as well as the size and slope of the surrounding area.

Above-ground rain gardens are built on top of the existing ground and are perfect for areas where digging is not possible. They are typically constructed using a raised bed or container, which is filled with soil and plants. Above-ground rain gardens can be used in a variety of settings, including rooftops, balconies, and patios.

Overall, rain gardens are an effective and sustainable way to manage stormwater runoff and improve water quality. By capturing and filtering rainwater, they can help to prevent flooding, erosion, and water pollution, while also providing a habitat for a variety of plant and animal species.

Benefits of Rain Gardens

Rain gardens have become increasingly popular in recent years, and for good reason. Not only are they aesthetically pleasing, but they also provide numerous environmental benefits.

Environmental Advantages

One of the primary environmental advantages of rain gardens is their ability to reduce stormwater runoff. Stormwater runoff can cause erosion, flooding, and water pollution. By capturing and absorbing rainwater, rain gardens help to reduce the amount of runoff that enters our waterways.

In addition to reducing stormwater runoff, rain gardens also filter pollutants from the water. The plants in a rain garden act as natural filters, removing pollutants such as fertilizers, pesticides, and pet waste from the water. This helps to improve the quality of our waterways and protect the health of aquatic life.

Rain gardens also provide a habitat for wildlife, including birds, butterflies, and bees. By creating a diverse and natural environment, rain gardens help to support local ecosystems and promote biodiversity.

Aesthetic Appeal

One of the most appealing aspects of rain gardens is their aesthetic value. With a variety of plants to choose from, you can create a unique and eye-catching design that will make your yard stand out. Not only do rain gardens add color and texture to your yard, but they can also be designed to complement the architecture of your home.

Furthermore, rain gardens can be used to create a sense of tranquility and relaxation in your yard. The sound of trickling water and the sight of colorful blooms can help to create a peaceful and calming atmosphere.

Increased Property Value

Another benefit of rain gardens is their ability to increase the value of your property. As more and more homebuyers become interested in eco-friendly features, rain gardens have become a sought-after addition to many homes. By installing a rain garden, you can not only improve the appearance of your yard, but also increase the resale value of your home.

Flood Prevention and Water Management

Finally, rain gardens can help to prevent flooding and manage water on your property. By capturing and absorbing rainwater, they reduce the amount of runoff that can cause flooding and erosion in your yard. This can help to protect your home and property from water damage.

In addition, rain gardens can also help to manage water on your property. By capturing and storing rainwater, they can be used to irrigate your garden during dry spells. This can help to conserve water and reduce your water bill.

Overall, the benefits of rain gardens are numerous and far-reaching. Whether you are looking to improve the appearance of your yard, protect the environment, or increase the value of your property, a rain garden is a smart and sustainable choice.

Planning Your Rain Garden

Creating a rain garden is a great way to reduce runoff and help the environment. Not only will it add beauty to your yard, but it will also help filter pollutants and prevent erosion. Here are some additional tips to help you plan your rain garden:

Choosing the Right Location

When selecting the location for your rain garden, it’s important to choose an area that receives a lot of rainwater runoff. This can be an area where water collects after a heavy rain or a spot where your downspout empties. You should also make sure that the area is at least 10 feet away from your home’s foundation to prevent water damage. Additionally, consider the amount of sunlight the area receives. Plants that thrive in full sun will not do well in shaded areas.

Determining the Size and Shape

The size and shape of your rain garden will depend on the amount of runoff in your yard. A good rule of thumb is to create a rain garden that is at least 100 square feet in size. However, if you have a larger area of runoff, you may need to create a larger rain garden. The shape of your rain garden can be any shape that fits your yard, but a kidney or oval shape is often recommended as it allows for a natural flow of water.

Soil and Drainage Considerations

The soil in your rain garden should be a mix of sand, compost, and topsoil. This will ensure that the soil can absorb the water quickly and efficiently. You should also make sure that your rain garden has proper drainage so that water does not pool for long periods of time. One way to ensure proper drainage is to create a berm or raised edge on the downhill side of the garden. This will help prevent water from flowing out of the garden and into other areas of your yard.

By following these tips, you can create a beautiful and functional rain garden that will benefit both your yard and the environment.

Selecting Eco-Friendly Plants

When it comes to creating a rain garden, selecting the right plants is crucial for its success. Not only do you want plants that can thrive in wet conditions, but you also want to choose plants that are eco-friendly and beneficial to the local ecosystem. Here are some things to consider when selecting plants for your rain garden.

Native Plant Species

Native plant species are plants that are naturally found in your local area. These plants have adapted to the climate, soil, and other environmental factors in your region over time. Because of this, they are better suited to your area’s conditions and require less maintenance than non-native plants. They also provide food and habitat for local wildlife, such as birds and insects.

Some popular native plant species for rain gardens include cardinal flower, swamp milkweed, and blue flag iris. These plants have deep root systems that can help absorb excess water and prevent erosion.

Drought-Tolerant Plants

While rain gardens are designed to capture and filter rainwater, there may be times when your garden experiences drought conditions. To ensure that your rain garden stays healthy during dry periods, consider adding drought-tolerant plants to your garden. These plants are able to survive with little to no additional watering, which can save you time and money on maintenance.

Some popular drought-tolerant plants for rain gardens include black-eyed Susan, butterfly weed, and purple coneflower. These plants have deep root systems that can help them access water deep within the soil.

Pollinator-Friendly Options

Adding pollinator-friendly plants to your rain garden can help attract bees, butterflies, and other important pollinators to your yard. Pollinators play a crucial role in the ecosystem by helping plants reproduce, which in turn provides food for other animals.

Some popular pollinator-friendly plants for rain gardens include milkweed, bee balm, and goldenrod. These plants provide nectar and pollen for pollinators, and can also add beautiful pops of color to your garden.

By selecting eco-friendly plants for your rain garden, you can create a beautiful and functional space that benefits both you and the local ecosystem. Whether you choose native plant species, drought-tolerant plants, or pollinator-friendly options, your rain garden is sure to thrive with the right selection of plants.

Conclusion

Creating an eco-friendly rain garden is a great way to add beauty and environmental benefits to your yard. By understanding how rain gardens work, the benefits they provide, and how to plan and plant one, you can create a stunning and sustainable outdoor space that will benefit both you and the environment for years to come.

Rain Garden FAQS

What is a rain garden?

A rain garden is a specially designed and positioned shallow depression in the ground, often planted with suitable shrubs, flowers, and grasses. Its main function is to capture, store, and absorb rainwater runoff from hard surfaces like roofs, driveways, and patios, thus reducing the amount of water flowing into storm drains and local water bodies.

How do you make a simple rain garden?

To make a simple rain garden, choose a location in your yard that typically receives a lot of rainwater runoff. Ensure that the spot is at least 10 feet away from your home to prevent water damage. Dig a shallow depression in the ground, around 6 inches to 2 feet deep, depending on the size of the area. Fill this area with a mix of sand, compost, and topsoil to encourage good drainage. Finally, plant a selection of native, drought-tolerant, and pollinator-friendly plants that can thrive in both wet and dry conditions.

How effective are rain gardens?

Rain gardens are highly effective in managing stormwater runoff, reducing erosion and the risk of flooding, and preventing pollutants from reaching local waterways. They also help recharge local groundwater supplies, provide habitats for local wildlife, and increase the aesthetic and property value of a yard. The effectiveness of a rain garden, however, can depend on various factors including its size, location, the types of plants used, and how well it’s maintained.

What is a Florida rain garden?

A Florida rain garden is a rain garden specifically designed for Florida’s unique climate and ecosystem. It is planted with native Florida plants that can tolerate both the state’s heavy rainy season and its dry season. Florida rain gardens serve the same purpose of capturing, filtering, and infiltrating stormwater runoff while also providing a habitat for local Florida wildlife.

What are the cons of a rain garden?

While rain gardens have many benefits, there can be some challenges or downsides. They require careful planning and design to ensure effective water infiltration and plant survival. The site chosen needs to have good drainage – if the soil is too clayey, the water may not infiltrate well. Also, depending on the plant species selected, some maintenance such as pruning, weeding, and replacement of plants may be required. Rain gardens may also attract wildlife, which could be a problem for some people.

Do rain gardens attract mosquitoes?

If properly designed and maintained, rain gardens should not attract mosquitoes. Mosquitoes need standing water for at least 7 to 12 days to breed. A well-designed rain garden should allow water to infiltrate the ground within 24 to 48 hours, well before mosquitoes could breed. However, if water stands in the garden for longer periods due to poor design or drainage issues, it could potentially become a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

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Gardening has become an increasingly popular pastime for homeowners and urban dwellers alike. With rising concerns about the environment, sustainable gardening practices have come to the forefront of the conversation. One such practice is chop and drop mulching. This technique is not only eco-friendly, but it can also improve soil health and reduce the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

Quick Facts

Understanding Chop and Drop Mulching

Chop and drop mulching is a technique that involves cutting plants and laying the cuttings on the ground as a layer of mulch. This layer will eventually break down and release nutrients into the soil. This technique is an excellent way to keep plants healthy and promote soil health.

The Concept of Chop and Drop Mulching

The concept behind chop and drop mulching is to create a natural cycle of decomposition. Rather than removing organic matter from the garden, chop and drop mulching allows the organic matter to break down and return nutrients to the soil. This process also helps to retain moisture and prevent erosion.

When you chop and drop plant material, you are essentially creating a layer of organic matter on top of the soil. This layer acts as a barrier, preventing water from evaporating too quickly and protecting the soil from the sun’s heat. The organic matter also provides a food source for beneficial microorganisms in the soil, which help to break down the material and release nutrients.

Benefits of Chop and Drop Mulching

There are numerous benefits to using chop and drop mulching in your garden. Mulching can help to suppress weeds, reduce water loss, and improve soil structure. Additionally, it can promote healthy microbial activity in the soil, which helps to break down organic matter and release nutrients.

One of the biggest benefits of chop and drop mulching is that it can save you time and money. Rather than having to buy and apply mulch to your garden, you can simply use the plant material that you have already grown. This not only saves you money, but it also reduces the amount of waste that you produce.

Another benefit of chop and drop mulching is that it can help to reduce the amount of water that you need to use in your garden. By retaining moisture in the soil, you can reduce the amount of water that you need to apply to your plants. This is particularly important in areas where water is scarce or expensive.

How Chop and Drop Mulching Supports Sustainability

Chop and drop mulching is an eco-friendly technique that supports sustainable gardening practices. By using organic material from your garden as mulch, you reduce the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides, which can have negative effects on the environment. Additionally, by retaining moisture in the soil, you reduce water usage and the strain on local water resources.

Chop and drop mulching also helps to promote biodiversity in your garden. By allowing organic matter to break down naturally, you create a habitat for a wide range of microorganisms, insects, and other small animals. This can help to create a more diverse and resilient ecosystem in your garden.

Overall, chop and drop mulching is an excellent technique for promoting soil health, reducing waste, and supporting sustainable gardening practices. By using this technique in your garden, you can create a more vibrant and healthy ecosystem that will benefit both your plants and the environment.

Preparing Your Garden for Chop and Drop Mulching

Chop and drop mulching is a sustainable gardening practice that involves cutting plant material and leaving it on the soil surface to decompose and nourish the soil. This technique can help to improve soil health, reduce water usage, and promote healthy plant growth. However, before you begin using chop and drop mulching in your garden, there are a few preparations you should make to ensure the best possible results.

Choosing the Right Plants for Chop and Drop

Not all plant material is suitable for chop and drop mulching. Plants that are too woody, like trees and shrubs, are not suitable for chop and drop mulching. Instead, choose plants with softer foliage, like herbs, vegetables, and flowers. These plants are easier to chop and drop, and they will break down more quickly, providing nutrients to the soil.

Some great plants for chop and drop mulching include comfrey, clover, alfalfa, and legumes. These plants have deep root systems that can help to break up compacted soil, and they are rich in nitrogen, which is essential for healthy plant growth.

Soil Preparation and Amendments

Proper soil preparation is essential to ensure the best possible results from chop and drop mulching. Start by testing your soil to determine its pH levels and nutrient content. You can purchase a soil testing kit from your local garden center or send a sample of your soil to a laboratory for analysis.

Once you’ve identified any deficiencies, you can amend your soil with organic matter, like compost or aged manure, to improve soil health. Adding organic matter to your soil can help to increase its water-holding capacity, improve soil structure, and provide essential nutrients to your plants.

It’s also important to ensure that your soil is well-draining and free of any debris or rocks that could impede root growth. You can improve soil drainage by adding sand or perlite to your soil mix.

Designing Your Garden Layout

The layout of your garden can also play a role in the success of chop and drop mulching. Make sure to leave enough space between plants to ensure adequate airflow and sunlight. Proper spacing can also help to prevent the spread of disease.

Consider using raised beds or containers for your chop and drop mulching garden. This can help to improve drainage and prevent soil compaction. You can also use a variety of planting techniques, like intercropping or companion planting, to maximize space and promote healthy plant growth.

By following these tips, you can prepare your garden for chop and drop mulching and enjoy the benefits of this sustainable gardening practice. Happy gardening!

Implementing Chop and Drop Mulching Techniques

Chop and drop mulching is a sustainable gardening technique that involves cutting back plants and leaving the organic material on the soil surface to decompose and enrich the soil. This technique mimics the natural process of nutrient cycling in a forest ecosystem, where fallen leaves and branches provide food and habitat for a diverse range of organisms.

Once you’ve prepared your garden for chop and drop mulching, it’s time to implement the techniques. But before you start, it’s important to understand the benefits of this method. Chop and drop mulching can help to:

• Suppress weeds by blocking out sunlight and smothering weed seeds
• Retain moisture in the soil by reducing evaporation and runoff
• Improve soil structure and fertility by adding organic matter and nutrients
• Encourage beneficial soil microorganisms and insects that help to break down the organic matter and improve soil health

When to Chop and Drop

The best time to chop and drop plants is when they are in their active growth phase. This is usually during the summer months. Cutting back plants during the growing season can help to promote new growth and encourage a second harvest. However, you can also chop and drop plants in the fall or winter, as long as the material is not too woody or tough to decompose quickly.

It’s important to avoid chopping and dropping any plants that are diseased or infested with pests. This can spread the problem to other plants in your garden. Instead, remove these plants and dispose of them properly.

Proper Chopping Techniques

When chopping plants, it’s essential to use clean, sharp tools to prevent the spread of disease. Pruning shears, loppers, or a sharp knife can be used, depending on the size of the stems. Cut the plant material to a height of a few inches above the ground, leaving enough material for a protective layer of mulch. Avoid cutting too close to the soil, as this can damage the roots of the plant.

If you have a lot of plant material to chop and drop, consider using a mulching mower or a brush cutter to speed up the process. These tools can chop the material into smaller pieces, which will decompose faster and create a finer mulch layer.

Distributing Mulch in Your Garden

Once you’ve chopped and dropped your plants, it’s time to distribute the mulch. Spread the plant material evenly over the soil, taking care not to cover the stems of any remaining plants. You can also add a layer of compost or aged manure for an extra nutrient boost. Water the mulch layer well to encourage decomposition and to help it settle into place.

It’s important to note that chop and drop mulching is not suitable for all types of plants or gardening situations. For example, plants that are prone to fungal diseases or that require a clean growing environment may not benefit from this technique. Additionally, if you have a small garden or limited space, you may prefer to compost your plant material separately and use the finished compost as a soil amendment.

Overall, chop and drop mulching is a simple and effective way to improve soil health and reduce your garden’s environmental impact. With a little practice and experimentation, you can find the best techniques and timing for your specific garden needs.

Maintaining Your Chop and Drop Mulched Garden

After implementing chop and drop mulching techniques, it’s essential to maintain your garden for optimal results. While chop and drop mulching is an efficient and eco-friendly gardening technique, it still requires some upkeep to ensure that your plants are healthy and thriving.

Monitoring Soil Health

Regularly monitoring soil health can help you identify any potential issues before they become a problem. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperatures, and a moisture meter to check for adequate moisture levels. This will ensure that your plants are getting the proper nutrients and water they need to thrive.

Additionally, it’s important to test your soil regularly to check its pH levels. Soil pH can affect the availability of nutrients to your plants, and different plants thrive in different pH levels. Adjusting your soil’s pH can help to ensure that your plants are getting the nutrients they need to grow strong and healthy.

Managing Pests and Diseases

Chop and drop mulching can help to reduce the spread of pests and diseases by improving soil health and promoting microbial activity. However, it’s still essential to keep an eye out for any signs of pest or disease activity. Common garden pests include aphids, slugs, and snails, while common diseases include powdery mildew and blight.

Using organic pest and disease control methods can help to keep your garden healthy without harming the environment. For example, introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings can help to control aphids, while using neem oil can help to control fungal diseases.

Seasonal Considerations and Adjustments

As the seasons change, you may need to adjust your chop and drop mulching techniques. In the fall, you may need to add a layer of leaves or straw to protect your plants from the cold. This can also help to provide insulation for the soil, which can help to promote microbial activity during the winter months.

In the spring, you may need to increase your mulch layer to retain moisture as temperatures increase. This can help to prevent your soil from drying out too quickly, which can be especially important during dry spells.

During the summer months, it’s important to keep an eye on your garden’s water needs. Depending on your climate and the type of plants you’re growing, you may need to water your garden more frequently to prevent wilting and dehydration.

By making these seasonal adjustments and paying attention to your garden’s needs, you can ensure that your chop and drop mulched garden stays healthy and productive year-round.

Conclusion

Chop and drop mulching is a sustainable gardening technique that can improve soil health, reduce the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and promote healthy plant growth. By understanding the concepts behind chop and drop mulching, preparing your garden appropriately, and implementing the proper techniques, you can create a more sustainable and eco-friendly garden that will thrive for years to come.

Chop and Drop Mulching

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Square foot gardening is a garden revolution that allows aspiring vegetable growers to grow an abundance of crops — very successfully, we might add — in a very limited amount of space.

You already know that much if you are considering starting your very own square foot garden, but there’s more to this gardening philosophy; square foot gardening also aims to reduce waste ever step of the way. In addition, it’s rather beginner-friendly!

 This guide will walk you through the process of setting up a square foot garden, from that initial spark all the way to your first harvest!

Square Foot Gardening: A Brief History

New gardeners who have recently stumbled on the concept of square foot gardening — most often because they are working with limited space and want to find out how they can grow as much as possible — may think they’ve discovered an entirely novel idea.

Although this gardening philosophy has evolved over the years, as more and more people have become invested in it, square foot gardening is far from new. So, where did square foot gardening come from, and why?

The term square foot gardening was coined by Mel Bartholomew, a civil engineer with urban planning experience who also happened to be a keen amateur gardener. Thinking about ways to make traditional gardening more effective, Bartholomew invented square foot gardening.

In doing so, he married his two passions — urban planning and gardening. Thus, square foot gardening was born, and it’s no accident that the result looks a lot like an urban grid.

Bartholomew soon decided to share his knowledge with the rest of the world, and his now famous book Square Foot Gardening: A New Way to Garden in Less Space and Less Work, was published as far back as 1983. More than a million copies were sold and treasured, and increasing numbers of people have adopted this unique gardening method since the book first appeared on the market.

Decades later, Bartholomew wrote a whole series of new books on square foot gardening, including, for parents, one on gardening efficiently with kids. Those who would love to get their hands on an up-to-date guide on square foot gardening from, so to say, the horse’s mouth would be best off buying Bartholomew’s 2013 book All New Square Foot Gardening II: The Revolutionary Way to Grow More in Less Space.

Bartholomew may have perfected his technique, but his book sparked a global movement that soon took on a life of its own — and it’s indeed true that many gardeners don’t follow his guide on square foot gardening to the letter, but instead adapt it to suit their own unique needs and aesthetic preferences.

What Are the Benefits of Square Foot Gardening?

The premise of square foot gardening is simple, and embodied in Mel Bartholomew’s initial book title — to grow more food in less space, thereby taking efficiency to a new level and reducing waste.

Beyond that promise, square foot gardening offers a neat framework that is quite easy and predictable to follow along with, making this technique great for people who are new to gardening or growing their own food.

Learning more about square foot gardening is more than worth it for anyone who:

• Would like to begin growing their own vegetables, but has limited space available — and that would include people with a small backyard as well as those who only have a balcony.
• Wants to grow vegetables, but has absolutely no intention of sacrificing their beautifully-designed landscape on the altar of urban or small-scale homesteading — in this case you technically have the space for a larger vegetable garden, but are simply choosing to use that space in a different way.
• Is new to gardening and would like a framework they can get started with as soon as possible, without any ambiguity.
• Is lazy — no, not a pejorative. Square foot gardening, you see, allows gardeners to skip the often much-hated step of weeding when the technique is done correctly, and that in turn allows you to spend your time doing other things.
• Simply enjoys the look of those interesting containers, which are not only efficient, but also pretty cool!
• Has already decided that raised garden beds are the way to go — square foot gardening will offer maximum yields!
• Gardeners with health needs that make gardening quite tricky — square foot garden beds are sufficiently small to allow gardeners to reach every square from any angle. Raised beds are also tall enough to be able to sit on a small stool while working. People with back pain, arthritis, or other chronic conditions will find this an extremely favorable approach.

What Defines Square Foot Gardening?

While plenty of people have experimented with some of the techniques used in traditional square foot gardening and abandoned others, the defining features of this unique gardening method can be described as follows:

• The basic concept starts with raised garden beds that measure four square feet (1.2 square meters). These raised beds are typically created with wooden planks. Once they are filled with a potting medium, the gardener meticulously measures out foot-long sections (that’s a rather award 0.3048 meters, for the metric folks out there). They will end up with a neat four by four grid that consists of 16 unique sections.
• Every single one of these square foot spaces will house a unique crop — so that even gardeners who are committing to installing just one raised bed are going to be growing 16 different vegetables.
• In most cases, you will be able to plant more than one of a crop in a single square. The magic lies in the fact that the number of plants you will be able to grow in a square foot has already been laid out for you — and you simply need to consult an established list and follow the instructions to get started with growing your very own veggies.
• This system has been created to maximize the number of vegetables that can be grown closely together while still giving each crop the space it needs. When done right, your square foot garden will not accumulate any weeds for you to have to eliminate.
• Crops are further planted to account for their growth cycle. The idea is that, once a certain square is ready to be harvested, it will not simply be left empty. Instead, gardeners quickly replaced the empty square with a new crop, creating a perpetual garden that can yield all sorts of unique crops throughout the year.
• The soil used in square foot gardens, as envisioned by Mel Bartholomew, also plays a key role in the success of the concept. While gardeners who like the raised beds and grids can, of course, proceed however they like, Bartholomew was a huge proponent of a potting medium that consists of one third compost, one third peat moss, and one third vermiculite.

Getting Started with Square Foot Gardening: A Quick, Handy, and Thorough Guide

It’s far from difficult to see why square foot gardening hasn’t just remained popular through the decades, but drawn a whole army of new followers over the last couple of years.

Square foot gardening is a space-saving, neat and tidy, and fairly easy way to begin to grow some of your own food — even if you have never had a vegetable garden before.

Having said that, you still need to make sure you have all your bases covered. Next up, we will be taking a look at all the steps a gardener would need to take to start up their own square foot garden (or two, or many) from scratch — in chronological order.

Read all the way through to get a better understanding of what you are getting yourself into when you begin a square foot garden, and consider how you can adapt this handy method to your own unique situation.

1. Picking the Right Location for Your Square Foot Garden

Some people start off with just one foot square foot raised garden bed, which will host 16 square foot portions. Others are immediately determined to grow as many vegetables as possible, and will want to get set up with more than one raised bed. The underlying principle remains the same in either case — before you start building your raised bed, or even buying the materials for it, you will need to know that you have a good place to put your square foot garden(s).

As you consider your options, keep in mind that the best location for a square foot garden:

• Should be placed in a spot that receives full sun — defined as at least six hours of sunlight per day.
• Should, ideally, be placed in a level area; sloped gardens are not great for traditional square foot gardens, although you can still learn from the concept if you have a sloping garden.
• Avoid rainwater catchment areas for your square foot garden. This will render the soil your veggies are growing in soggy, which you definitely don’t want.
• Is somewhere very much within your direct line of sight, as square foot gardens should ideally be checked up on daily and you don’t want to forget.

Some people grow food in square foot gardens on balconies in apartment complexes, and even on rooftops. This can work, but you will need to check if it is allowed, and also make sure not to create conditions that encourage concrete rot or fungal infestations. (Soil is heavy, and gardening indoors creates the humid conditions mold, mildew, and other fungi love.)

It is also, of course, possible to grow a square foot garden in an allotment, if you don’t have your own backyard. In this case, your allotment needs to be closed to your home, as it’s very much encouraged to interact with your square foot garden every day.

2. Building Raised Beds for Your Square Foot Garden

People who are planning to buy ready-made garden beds for their new square foot garden can mostly skip this step, but building your own bed can be very rewarding, as well as allowing you to save some money — so long as you have a few basic DIY skills.

Choose a durable wood, which should be treated but free from dangerous chemicals (for which reason you probably won’t want to choose recycled wood of unknown origins, to construct your raised garden bed from. To maximize the different kinds of vegetables you will be able to grow in a square foot garden, make sure that the planks from which you are constructing are wide enough to create a 12 inch-deep bed (that’s 30 centimeters).

Once you have your basic materials, you can go ahead and make your bed as durable as you can or want to, using a dovetail joint or simply going to town on your planks with nails and a hammer. With the basic frame in place, it is now time to create your grid — measure carefully!

3. Filling Your Raised Garden Bed with Soil

Are you new to gardening? Do you want to do everything you can to make your square foot garden a success? Don’t skimp on this step — and that indeed means that it is not a good idea to fill your brand new garden bed by shoveling ordinary garden soil into your frame, or by acquiring a potting mix meant for houseplants. Mel Bartholomew swore by his own potting mix, and so should you. To get it right, use:

• One part compost — but not from a single source! Bartholomew swore that it pays off to include compost from as many different sources as humanly possible!
• One part peat moss.
• One part vermiculite.

Mix these components together thoroughly to build a solid foundation for the crops you are planning to raise in your square foot garden. This unique soil mix won’t just be rich, but also airy. The end result is a beautifully fertile medium that your vegetables will thrive in.

Hold up, though — you are not done just yet! The topsoil, the top five inches (13 centimeters) of your potting mix needs to be different. Use a half compost (again, as varied as possible, including manure) and half commercial topsoil mix for this purpose.

4. Planning Your Square Foot Garden Layout

Reading Bartholomew’s book All New Square Foot Gardening can help you out if you would like to gain further insights in which case you’ll find the answers you are looking for in chapter three, but the beauty in the square foot gardening technique lies in the fact that everything has already been considered by someone.

The basics every aspiring square foot gardener should be aware of before they actually start planting vegetables are:

• Crops that grow to be significantly taller than others should be placed on the north side of your square foot garden frame, a choice that ensures that these taller crops will not overshadow your smaller ones.
• Trickier crops that need more TLC should be grown on the edge of the grid, where gardeners can easily reach them to prune them or inspect them for pests.

To decide how to space your plants — which, in the case of square foot gardening, translates to deciding how many individual plants may be placed into one square, you can consult any seed packet, but you can also stick with tried-and-trusted square foot gardening recommendations. These essentially amount to:

• Extra-large crops, like broccoli or a pepper plant, need more space. Plant one per square.
• You can plant four slightly smaller crops, like cabbages, into one square.
• Medium-sized crops can be planted in groups of nine, and these include onions and beets.
• Small crops like radishes can be planted more densely, meaning 12 can fit into a square foot.

Spreading crops or those that are truly outsized will need their own separate beds, meanwhile, and watermelons are one example.

Once you get the hang of that basic idea, you can go ahead and sketch your garden plans out on some graph paper. With this design plan in place, you can check and double check if you’re placing the right crops in the right squares.

5. Planting Crops into Your Square Foot Garden

Keen gardeners who have already followed along with the previous four steps already have a lot to be proud of — but now, they’ll be ready for the most exciting step, where crops are actually planted. In square foot gardening, it is most common to start crops from seed or to get plant starts from a nursery, which can be placed directly into the square foot garden.

Whichever route you choose to go with (or you may be mixing and matching), keep the spacing guidelines in mind as you plant your crops. Consult guides on how deep to plant seeds and plant starts before proceeding.

Crops that grow vertically will need the support of stakes or trellises, which can be prepared in advance and put into place right away.

6. Watering Your Square Foot Garden

Mel Bartholomew recommends watering your crops close to their base, rather than from up above. This saves water and thereby conserves resources, but it also protects your plants from sun damage. Have a look at your square foot garden every day, and check if any crops need to be watered. When the topsoil has dried out, or is beginning to, another watering session is in order.

7. Inspecting Your Crops for Pests and Diseases

Square foot gardening generally relies on an all natural approach to pest control. That means it is essential to inspect your plants frequently — ideally, every single day, which does not have to take very long — for signs of pests and plant diseases.

Should you spot any pests, like aphids or mealybugs, the recommended approach is to eliminate them by manually removing them from your crops. Disease branches or stems should be cut off, meanwhile. Those gardeners who are growing vertical crops such as beans should remove them from their support system once a week and reapply it. They can use this opportunity to look for pests and diseases.

8. Harvesting Your Square Foot Garden

After you have patiently and lovingly tended to your square foot garden, your crops should mature and become ready for harvesting at different times. When a square is ready to be harvested, do so — and take great pride in the fact that you have now become a successful vegetable gardener!

Celebrate the win by incorporating your homegrown veggies into a fresh dish.

9. Onward and Upward!

You are not going to leave that sad-looking square all empty and sad, right? After the harvest comes the next step — replanting, never forgetting to rotate your crop.

If you have successfully grown a bunch of radishes, you can perhaps see about some zucchinis next, for instance, or whatever else happens to be in season. Pay attention to the planting schedule in your locality to decide what to grow in your square foot garden next, and keep going!

Square foot gardens are designed to reduce waste and maximize yields, so they’re perennial. Don’t think of your harvest as your end point, but as a new beginning. Return to step four, and start your process all over again!

In Conclusion

After this peek, you’ll have understood that square foot gardening is simple — its founding father considered every aspect, and every question has an answer. Square foot gardening is not necessarily easy, however, as plenty of work awaits you if you choose to accept this quest!

Because conservation — of space, but also the natural world — lies at the very heart of this unique but amazingly popular approach to gardening, it’s quite hands-on.

Despite that, all the work you’ll have to do remains confined to neat four square foot squares, separated into neat equal grids.

As long as you follow the tried-and-trusted guidelines closely, you, too, can achieve success with square foot gardening!

The post What is Square Foot Gardening? Here’s All You Need to Know appeared first on GardenBeast.

Lasagna has long been a comfort food, and the secret to the rich flavor and delightful textures can be found in the way lasagna’s prepared or — if you like — crafted. The layers make the magic. Lasagna gardening is no different in that respect. Just like with a good lasagna, this gardening method relies on a hefty dose of patience but requires little active intervention while it’s “cooking”.

What exactly is lasagna gardening? What’s so good about this approach to gardening? How can you get started with your very own lasagna garden as soon as possible, and what tricks do you need to know about to get the best results?

Join us on a fascinating journey for answers to all of these questions!

What Is a Lasagna Garden?

Lasagna gardening is a gardening technique that does not require digging or tilling the land. Also called sheet mulching or sheet composting, lasagna gardening has an important place in the permaculture approach to caring for the land, but even gardeners who are not currently looking to embrace other permaculture principles can learn a lot from this particular technique.

In short, lasagna gardening relies on layers, or sheets, of composting materials to create a rich and fertile as well as airy or fluffy soil that is a joy to work with. The following layers are typically used in lasagna gardening:

• A base layer. This layer should be made up of materials that will not decompose as quickly or compress to the extent of the layers that will subsequently be added. Very often, small branches or twigs are chosen for this purpose. In some cases, cardboard or newspapers are chosen. These will kill vegetation already in place at the site of the lasagna garden.
• A brown (carbon) layer, which will offer nutrition for the worms that help transform your base materials into beautiful, rich, compost. This second layer should be two to six inches (five to 15 centimeters) tall, and a lot of different materials can be used — fallen leaves, wood chips, hay, shredded cardboard, and sawdust, for example, as well as grass clippings, pine needles, and manure.
• A green (nitrogen) layer, which should be only one to two inches (two and a half to five centimeters) deep, and be made up of fresh fruit and vegetable waste as well as plant clippings. To render the process effective, it is, however, critical to avoid non-vegetable materials such as meats, dairy products, fats, coffee grounds, and even grass clippings.)

These brown and green layers are then continued, for as long as is practical, until the top layer is reached — this should be a brown layer, so that your work in progress does not attract as many pests.

As you can already see, lasagna gardening relies in natural materials that you likely already have laying around in your yard, and that you may not know what to do with at the moment. It mimics the process nature uses to turn waste into compost, but streamlines it for beautiful results and efficiency.

It is important to point out that lasagna gardening is not just another way to create a compost heap — the result should be a flat surface that you can actually grow plants in once the composting process has finished. The growing medium this technique creates is an extraordinarily rich one, but gardeners simultaneously end up with a growing medium that is easy to work with; always nice!

What Are the Benefits of Lasagna Gardening or Sheet Composting?

The advantages of lasagna gardening aren’t just numerous, but also really quite delightful. They can probably best be divided into benefits for the gardener and environmental benefits.

In terms of your own convenience, lasagna gardening is great because:

• You will not have to till the land at all — the layering process has a very definite philosophy to it, as the base layer helps to create an airy and fluffy growing medium, while the alternating brown and green layers speed up the rate at which the materials are composted. Stirring or otherwise interfering with a lasagna garden will mess that process up, so you can leave it alone once created!
• Once your lasagna garden is ready, this growing medium will save you water, as lasagna gardens retain water more readily that traditional gardening methods.
• If you are working with a nutrient poor soil in your garden, lasagna gardening is an excellent way to create a medium that more demanding plants can grow well in.
• Lasagna gardening is, as an approach to creating a potting medium, very scalable. If you only have a balcony, because you live in an apartment, it is still possible to use this method. If you’d like to go big, that’s very doable, too. Indeed, you can make your lasagna garden as tall as you like, and if you are already interested in an approach like square foot gardening or container gardening, sheet composting is actually a great way to get ready for this.
• Lasagna gardening creates its own potting medium, and has the added bonus that the plants grown in such a garden are unlikely to be plagued by many weeds. From your side, that means spending less time weeding.
• Lasagna gardening, like many sustainable approaches to gardening, has a welcome tendency to be rather easy on the wallet, too. To get started, you use materials you already have (old leaves) or continuously create (food scraps). That means you won’t have to buy anything, and you will no longer have to find other ways to dispose of these materials either.

In environmental terms, meanwhile, you return the materials nature has left behind to their place of origin to once again participate in the cycle of life. Materials that might otherwise have been considered waste no longer have to end up in a landfill, where the natural cycle is disrupted. Instead, they get to help you grow some awesome plants. Yes, this means that fertilizer will not be necessary, because your lasagna garden takes care of that part.

To sum all those benefits up into a tidy catchphrase, lasagna gardening is easy, efficient, and environmentally sustainable. What’s not to like?

What’s the Catch? Lasagna Gardening Has to Have Some Downsides, Right?

That all sounds amazing, doesn’t it? If you’re wondering what the catch is — because every great gardening technique comes with a set of downsides, too — you are asking the right question. It is always good to know exactly what you are getting into, so that you can better determine if a method is right for you, after all. There are indeed some disadvantages to lasagna gardening, although this depends on your perspective to some extent. Here’s a look at some of the most important ones:

• Setting up a lasagna garden is quite labor intensive. You may get the materials for free, but you still have to collect them, and that will take time. Once you have the materials you need, you also need to go through the process of creating the layers required for a lasagna garden, and it’s quite a lot of work to finish up.
• Like a good lasagna, lasagna gardens take time to “cook”; if you’re hoping to get started right away, lasagna gardening may not be right for you. After you are done adding the final layer to a lasagna garden, it can take anywhere from six months to a full year for the garden to be ready for planting. This technique isn’t suitable for impatient gardeners!
• Lasagna gardens don’t only attract worms (very much welcome), but also snails and slugs (not good!).
• To create the green layers, you’ll have to be mindful that you don’t add the wrong products. Unlike a traditional compost heap or box, you won’t simply be able to shovel chicken salad leftovers into the compost; green layers should be free from the oil and meat you’d find in that. It’s best to create a separate compost for food scraps you discard right after cutting them.

Do these disadvantages not deter you? Are you ready to take on an exciting new challenges, likely with excellent results? Then, starting a lasagna garden may be right for you. Stay with us to find out exactly how you can get started with the process!

How to Make a Lasagna Garden: A Step-by-Step Guide

Before getting started with lasagna gardening, or sheet composting, gardeners should know that they still need a set of tools, though they won’t be digging or tilling the land. These include a shovel, garden gloves, a hose, and, if you’re planning to set your lasagna garden up in a container or raised bed, tools to make those, too.

An abundant supply of organic materials is another indisputable must, but we’ll assume that you have this covered. If you are low on fallen leaves, your neighbors will probably be more than happy to share some with you.

1. Deciding When You Want to Get Started with Your Lasagna Garden

The time of year during which you begin the process will impact the final result, as well as how soon your lasagna garden will be ready for planting. The majority of lasagna gardeners will get started during the fall period. This is an excellent choice for a number of reasons.

More organic materials will be available for the brown layers required for sheet composting during this time, as leaves will fall off deciduous leaves and annual plants will be completing their life cycles. In addition, the increased rainfall the lasagna garden gets during this time speeds up the process. Finally, winter is a great time to allow your lasagna garden to percolate, because you likely won’t be doing much gardening during this time anyway. When the first signs of spring make their appearance, your garden bed will likely be good to go.

Starting a lasagna garden during the spring or summer is harder, as you will have fewer materials to work with. This then means that you will have to look for substitutes such as topsoil and peat, which likewise add some cost to the project.

2. Marking the Boundaries of Your Planned Lasagna Garden

Lasagna gardens can be tiny projects, huge projects, and everything in between. Those gardeners who want to try lasagna gardening out on a small scale will have great success with lasagna box gardens, which are essentially raised beds placed directly on the earth (where interaction with the sheet composting layers and nature can easily take place). You can buy raised beds commercially, but making your own is not too hard, either.

Those who are intending to create a lasagna garden on a much larger scale will want to mark the boundaries of the project out with wooden poles, perhaps tying lengths of rope between them. Setting out boundaries for your planned lasagna garden will help you determine if you are happy with the scale, as well as giving you a better idea of the amount of materials you will need to fill the space.

3. Putting Your Compost Layers Down

Every lasagna garden requires a bottom layer. This layer serves the purpose of improving air circulation to the other layers, and can also be used to kill any grass that is currently growing on the site where you have planned a lasagna garden.

• Many people choose to use cardboard or old newspapers for this bottom layer. These should be watered to hold the layer in place and to promote faster composting. Twigs and branches, when laid down at the bottom of a lasagna garden will improve the air circulation to the other layers. They will not decompose as quickly as the other layers and help you achieve an especially airy and fluffy end result.
• Once the bottom layer has been established, covering the entire area of your future lasagna garden, it is time to begin adding more layers. Remember — a brown layer sits right atop the bottom layer. This is key, because it plays an essential role in attracting earthworms, which are your worker bees, to the site.
• Your first brown layer, and all subsequent ones, should be made up of dry leaves, pine needles, browned palm fronds, manure, shredded newspaper bits, hay, peat, and similar materials. If you are able to create a semi-even mix before you lay the layer down, that will be helpful, but it is not essential. Brown layers are two to six inches (five to 15 centimeters) deep.
• Your first green layer should consist entirely of organic wastes such as grass clippings, vegetable waste, and it will offer nitrogen. These green layers are much thinner, with a total initial depth of one to two inches (two and a half to five centimeters).
• After the initial three layers of a lasagna garden have successfully been established, gardeners should continue to alternate between brown and green layers, ensuring that their depth is roughly correct. There is no need to break out your measuring tape, because this is an art rather than a precise science, but do keep an eye on the fact that the carbon layers should be much thicker than the nitrogen-providing layers.
• Keep building, until you’re happy with the result — but remember that the height of your initial setup will begin to come down very quickly, as the materials begin to decay so that your new potting medium can be created. For a larger lasagna garden, sheet composting layers should typically start off being around two feet (60 centimeters) tall. It will not stay that high. Those who are looking for an impressive raised bed should consider creating a taller initial lasagna garden.

To deter pests and larger animals who may be interested in taking off with some of the materials in your lasagna garden, you are always encouraged to make your final layer, the layer that faces the outside world, a brown layer.

4. Watching, Waiting, and Offering a Little Water if Necessary

In the hours, days, and weeks after the establishment of your lasagna garden, you will not see any radical changes. Rest assured that nature is hard at work to turn those lovely layers into a fruitful potting medium for you, however.

Worms and other creatures such as ants and beetles will soon join the process, and your sheet composting project will begin to take on a life of its own as it goes through the stages it takes to create your potting medium.

If you’re bored, take daily or weekly pictures — those will be interesting to look back on later, and it’s truly amazing to see what nature can do. While your lasagna garden is a work in process, it will not generally require any further help from your side; you did almost everything you needed to when you placed the layers down. There is, however, one exception to this.

Moisture plays an essential role in the process of getting the soil ready, and if you live in an area with very little rainfall or snow, you may need to add a little water to the mix. Don’t soak your lasagna garden, but sprinkle it lightly, in this case.

5. It’s Go Time! Planting Your Lasagna Garden

Gardeners who established their lasagna garden at the beginning of the previous fall will likely be greater with a loose, airy, but otherwise fairly even and uniform material that looks a lot like the potting soil you might buy from a garden center at the beginning of spring.

Once you reach this stage, your lasagna garden is ready for some new plants to be added! Because the soil is so loose, planting your planned plants will not be a problem at all. If you have placed a little too much cardboard on your first layer, however, this may not have decomposed all the way and you may need to pierce it.

From this point forward, your lasagna garden functions like any other garden would, and you can now proceed to care for the plants you are growing in it like you would normally do.

6. Maintaining Your Lasagna Garden

You will, of course, want to keep that soil looking beautiful so that it can continue to nourish your plants. Why not take the opportunity to add new brown and green layers to your existing lasagna garden each fall, so that you will be greeted with a fresh new potting medium at the start of each growing season?

In Conclusion

Lasagna gardens are a very sustainable way to garden, and they give you excellent soil that plants will grow well in and that is an absolutely joy to work with. Sheet composting may not be easy, as such, as it does depend on some hard work at the outset, but it is definitely straightforward. Anyone can achieve success with this method, so long as they have a little patience.

Lasagna Gardening FAQs

Q: What should I keep out of my lasagna garden?

A: Do not add meat, fats, dairy products, or cooking oils to your green layers, and do not add unwanted weeds, either, as they will likely proliferate in your lasagna garden. Additionally, ensure that you don’t add materials that contain pesticides or chemicals.

Q: Can I add new layers to any lasagna garden?

A: New layers can freely be added to your lasagna garden each fall if you are growing annuals, but perennials should only be mulched.

Q: How nutritionally diverse should my layers be?

A: Adding variety to your layers is a good thing; it ensures that your final result is an extremely rich soil that your plants will thrive in. However, it is not necessary to take this to an extreme. If you have an abundance of brown leaves for your brown layers but you don’t know where to get your hands on any hay, your lasagna garden can still be successful.

Q: Where do I collect the materials for my lasagna garden?

A: If you are worried that you will not have enough materials for your green and brown layers, you can ask friends and neighbors to share. To get more leaves, you can even collect fallen leaves from a local public park. These would otherwise be collected and discarded anyway.

The post What is Lasagna Gardening? Here’s All You Need To Know appeared first on GardenBeast.

Alternative, organic, and more sustainable gardening methods have not only risen in popularity as increasing numbers of people have become more environmentally-conscious, but thanks to the internet, it is also easier than ever before to get started.

Biodynamic gardening, more commonly called biodynamic agriculture because it covers not just gardening, but also larger-scale farming (including livestock), is yet another approach to caring for the land and raising food that may catch your eye if you are on the hunt for a better way to garden.

Biodynamic gardening is closely connected to the alternative education philosophy practiced in Waldorf schools — which many people have come to known as a wholesome and natural approach to child rearing, or at least for its beautiful felted dolls. That is to say, biodynamic gardening emerged from the mind of the same person, Rudolf Steiner.

Like everything else Rudolf Steiner pioneered, biodynamic agriculture is difficult to understand. That is not because you are too ignorant or too shallow to figure his deep messages out; it is simply because Steiner’s ideas do not make a whole lot of sense and will never be able to withstand critical scientific analysis.

This doesn’t mean that good ideas cannot be found within biodynamic gardening, however — it’s true that many of the ideas that have almost universally come to be accepted as the path to more sustainable gardening are also present in the biodynamic approach to gardening.

What Is Biodynamic Gardening?

The biodynamic approach to gardening sees all aspects of nature as being closely interconnected — which, indeed, they are. Soil health, plant growth, and raising animals for human consumption are all viewed as being linked in a continuous cycle of life.

Biodynamic gardening is an agricultural philosophy developed by an Austrian philosopher called Rudolf Steiner, who made his mark on the world between the late nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. His adherents would call Steiner a researcher and a scientist, but he is more widely known as an occultist, esotericist, and architect.

Steiner developed his core philosophy, anthroposophy, a deeply spiritual and mystic way of seeing the world, early on during the twentieth century. This philosophy governs the famous Waldorf schools that continue to operate until this day, as well as his approach to gardening — called biodynamic farming, agriculture, or gardening.

Biodynamic agriculture is exciting in that it was the first-ever coherent movement to popularize organic farming methods — that is, agriculture that honors the earth by foregoing the use of artificial fertilizers and other chemicals, and using exclusively natural and environmentally-friendly methods to raise crops and animals. In that sense, the philosophy deserves a lot of credit.

Biodynamic gardeners tend to place a heavy emphasis on the spiritual concepts that lie at the core of this philosophy, which can be challenging to familiarize yourself with if you are simply looking for practical gardening tips that will help you grow plants in a greener and healthier way. This is why it can be so hard to get started with this approach; to practice biodynamic agriculture the way its creator intended it, it is necessary to study the spirituality at the root of the concept in great depth.

However, there are a lot of practical takeaways that can be beneficial in the garden, too. These are not unique to biodynamic agriculture, and can be implemented fairly easily.

The core set of principles that form the essence of biodynamic gardening are:

• Biodynamic gardens form a “living organism”, adherents emphasize. Each part interacts with each other part, and in some way depends on it. The soil nurtures the plants within it, and the plants in turn nurture the soil. The animals that feed on the plants have a relationship with both. The gardener’s job is to seek greater harmony and to help it come about. The spiritual dimension of this lies in paying close attention to the land they are gardening on to be able to understand what may “wish to emerge from it”.
• The biodynamic approach to gardening embraces ecological diversity rather than monoculture, and this creates resilient and therefore more stable gardens. If you raise animals on your land, the biodynamic gardening philosophy encourages diversity there, too, in part because each animal’s manure has unique nutrients to offer.
• The biodynamic approach to gardening also seeks to bring all elements of nature together, and as such encourages gardeners or farmers to raise animals as well as crops — there is no need to choose between the two, an artificial separation. Growing plants while simultaneously raising animals is said to balance the whole, as animals and plants have complementary roles to play in nature and in the garden.
• “Generating on-farm fertility” is another key aspect of biodynamic gardening. In practical terms, this in part means relying on natural sources of compost from within the garden to amend the soil quality. Compost includes plant materials as well as manure, so each other part of your garden feeds the soil to enrich it. In addition to composting, biodynamic gardening emphasizes crop rotation and companion planting as important tools to maintain rich and fertile soil.
• Organic “preparations” are put to use to supplement the quality of the compost in biodynamic agriculture. The ingredients that go into these preparations include yarrow, chamomile, stinging nettle, oak bark, dandelion, and valerian. (According to biodynamic gardening adherents, this process adds carbon, which is perceived to be important in creating a balanced climate — and whether or not these preparations can generate carbon, climate activists and policy makers are currently working hard to avoid the release of more carbon, as it does not create a balanced climate at all.)
• Cultivating awareness by having conversations with nature is another aspect of biodynamic gardening.
• Obtaining plant seeds and animal stock from “within the farm”, as well as staying away from genetically-modified and otherwise altered plants and favoring heirloom crops, is strongly encouraged (and required for farms who wish to get a biodynamic certification).
• One of the more esoteric concepts in biodynamic gardening relies on so-called “preparations” to facilitate a better relationship between the soil and the plants that grow within it. An example of this is cow manure that is buried inside a cow’s horn during the winter. Needless to say, there is no scientific basis for this concept, and it is here where biodynamic agriculture leaves the realm of organic gardening and enters the realm of the mystic and pseudoscientific.
• Animals are raised in a way that respects and supports their natural lifecycle and habitat in biodynamic agriculture. Baby animals are kept with parent animals to feed, and biodynamic animals are free-range animals that roam the earth.
• Biodynamic gardening works in harmony with the natural ways of the cosmos, which means that moon cycles and astrology are often used to decide when to plant and harvest. This concept, too, is of questionable scientific value.
• Natural pest control is the way of life for biodynamic gardeners, as pesticides are avoided. This particular biodynamic gardening principle is found in every approach to organic gardening.
• Biodynamic agriculture seeks to meet the needs of the living things that grow in and on the land as well as the people who farm and eat the proceeds, in accordance with Steiner’s philosophy.

While this short list very much offers the “cliffnotes” versions of all the ideas biodynamic gardening encompasses, it should offer readers some insights into the principles that govern this approach.

How Popular Is Biodynamic Agriculture?

Biodynamic agriculture, as a philosophy for tending to the land, heavily emphasizes the benefits of raising animals and plants together, on the same farm. It should come as no surprise, then, that this approach is more suitable for people who have large areas of lands available — small hobbyist gardeners may not have the space to raise animals, and for urban gardeners, raising animals such as sheep, goat, chickens, and ducks may not even be an option.

Biodynamic agriculture is quite popular on a global level, including in a commercial context — according to the Biodynamic Association, the Demeter certification that was created to certify farms that adhere to this philosophy currently applies to more than 5,000 individual farms in over 60 different countries. Biodynamic gardening is practiced on over 400,000 hectares of land, and a large minority of them are in Germany.

How useful is biodynamic gardening for amateur gardens who would simply love to grow beautiful flowering plants, you wonder? It is very possible to take some inspiration from the method, especially by incorporating more sustainable gardening techniques that are embraced across the spectrum of organic gardening philosophies. Unless you buy into the preparations, astrology, and spiritual dimensions, however, such steps cannot create a “true biodynamic garden”.

Is Biodynamic Agriculture a Pseudoscience?

Is biodynamic agriculture a pseudoscience — a methodology that masquerades as a science, and is steeped in scientific language, but the merits of which cannot be confirmed, and may have been dispelled countless times? In short, yes — when the core principles that govern the practice of biodynamic farming are taken as a whole, there is no question that the practice transcends science, or rather exists outside of it.

There is no scientific reason to believe that the mystical preparations which form such as important part of the philosophy offer any particular practical benefits that differ from those of the ingredients themselves.

Let’s take a look at some of the preparations used in biodynamic gardening to illustrate just how bizarre this approach to gardening gets:

• Yarrow blossoms encased in the bladders of red deer, exposed to the sun during the summer period but buried during the winter.
• Finely-chopped oak bark percolated in the skull of a domestic animal, as well as encircled by peat and allowed to receive plenty of water.
• Dandelion flowers placed in cattle’s entrails and buried in the winter.

Because it is all to easy to take this as satire, let us be clear — all of these potions, and more, are in fact being used by biodynamic gardeners in the twenty-first century, with the belief that they help crops to grow or that they crate greater natural harmony.

Although astronomy and moon cycles used to be a very helpful way for farmers to gain insights into natural cycles, to allow them to decide when to plant and harvest, there is no evidence to suggest that these methods could be useful in modern gardens, or increase yields, either.

Further, spiritual conversations with nature fall outside of the realm of gardening — and while spirituality can certainly help you create a beautiful garden, there is no scientific evidence that mythological practices can help you grow your garden, either.

These elements of biodynamic gardening, which serve not as an optional add-on but as an integral part of the philosophy, without which biodynamic gardening would simply be organic gardening, can most certainly be described as a pseudoscience.

Having said that, not everything advocated for in biodynamic gardening is spiritual or pseudoscientific in nature. Gardeners who are looking for a more eco-friendly way to nurture everything that grows on the patch of land in their care can, in fact, learn quite a lot from this approach.

Biodynamic Agriculture vs Permaculture: What Is the Difference?

Anyone who is seriously looking into ways to garden in a more sustainable manner is bound to investigate both permaculture and biodynamic farming. As you do so, you may come across the term “biodynamic permaculture”, and come to understand biodynamic gardening as a philosophy that is closely connected with permaculture. This is not the case.

Permaculture has an entirely different origin; it was developed by two Australian environmental engineers, Bill Mollison and David Holmgren, in the 1970s. This approach to gardening relies in principles that may sound similar to biodynamic gardening at first glance:

• Observing the land you are working with.
• Catching and storing energy (such as catching rainwater or installing solar panels).
• Farming to increase your yields.
• Using renewable resources.
• Producing no waste.
• Starting with the big picture and working your way down to the smaller details.
• Integrating, rather than segregating.
• Using small and slow solutions.
• Valuing diversity.
• Using edges.
• Responding to change.

The principles permaculture practitioners embrace are similar to those practiced in biodynamic farming, but without the spiritual aspects, without the unique preparations, and without the call to raise animals alongside plants.

Practical Ways to Incorporate Biodynamic Agriculture Principles Into Your Home Garden

Most people who come to learn about the concept of biodynamic gardening are simply looking for a greener, more wholesome, way to care for their gardens. As an early player in the organic farming scene, an approach of farming free from pesticides and an approach that honors the earth and all living beings that grow in and on it, biodynamic gardening has a lot going for it.

Are you not quite ready to dive into potions that involve animal skulls and bladders, but do you very much hope to create a beautiful and sustainable garden? Try these practical ways to garden in a more sustainable way! They’re not just used in biodynamic gardening, but also have a solid scientific basis.

1. Practicing Crop Rotation in Your Garden

Crop rotation — a practice in which a new crop is grown in a plot of land after a harvest, and the land is also left fallow or bare for a period of time — is an important part of biodynamic gardening. Crop rotation has been used to nurture the land and enrich the soil since Roman times, and it has definite benefits.

By rotating crops, choosing to grow new plants with different characteristics after a harvest, gardeners ensure that the soil does not become nutrient poor. The overall soil quality improves with crop rotation, and this makes plants more resistant to pests and plant diseases. It can also increase yields, as crop rotation allows gardeners to make optimal use of the fact that different crops mature at different times.

People who are growing a vegetable garden benefit if they rotate their crops, growing new vegetables in place of the ones they just harvested, to ensure the soil and the plants remain healthy. Even people in charge of ornamental gardens can make use of this principle, especially if they are growing annuals.

2. Using Natural Compost in Your Garden

Biodynamic gardening makes use of natural compost, acquired from plant sources as well as from manure produced by diverse animals, to create fertile soil for the plants being grown in a garden. This aspect of biodynamic gardening offers many benefits, too:

• Using natural materials as a fertilizer eliminates the risk of soil or water pollution altogether.
• By using natural compost, gardeners can use waste materials that they would otherwise have no use for in an efficient manner.
• Artificial fertilizer is expensive, and rising in price. Using natural compost is easy on the wallet.
• Preparing natural compost is easy and requires no math skills. Novice gardeners can work with natural compost without any problems.
• Natural compost helps to ensure a rich soil quality that help your plants grow more quickly, as well as to maintain their health and strength.

3. Welcoming Natural Pest Control in Your Garden

You are working hard to create a beautiful or fruitful garden — and you definitely don’t want pests like slugs, scale, mealybugs, and aphids to threaten the plants you are growing. Are pesticides the only solution? Absolutely not! Biodynamic agriculture embraces natural pest control methods, and you can, too.

Natural pest control methods range from eliminating potential food sources for pests, to using natural insect repellents such as neem oil and citrus peel, to introducing natural predators such as frogs or birds to your garden, often by creating an environment they would feel welcome in.

Natural pest control methods are not only more environmentally friendly, as they allow gardeners to avoid the use of harsh chemicals in the garden, but they can also save money. In addition, creating a garden in which songbirds, frogs, and pollinators feel welcome can add much enjoyment.

Natural pest control is another thing biodynamic gardening got right, and anyone can begin implementing it.

4. Generating ‘On-Farm Fertility’ Is a Great Idea

If you would like to be completely self-sustaining, a wonderful goal especially if you live in a rural area, the biodynamic farming principle of generating ways to fertilize your soil on your own farm is a rather practical one. The idea of raising animals and plants together, on the same farm, is at the center of most small homesteads, where everything is reused, reduced, and recycled.

Are you raising animals such as chickens and goats? As they say, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure — and the manure these animals leave behind can be of vital importance to the health of your garden. Have you got fallen leaves or grass clippings? It would be a waste not to put them to use as a source of compost or mulch.

Becoming truly self-sustaining requires ample resources, including often a lot of space, but taking steps in the direction of an independently sufficient garden is always a worthy goal.

5. Your Garden Is a Living Organism

The biodynamic farming principle that every part of your garden is closely connected to every other part also holds true, and every gardener can learn something from this idea. Plants become compost, which become plants. Chickens eat off the land and produce manure, which promotes new growth. The rain that falls on your land can be collected to become a source of water long after the clouds have lifted.

Biodynamic gardeners seek to live in harmony with nature, and this is something we can all learn from. It all starts with seeing your garden, and indeed the planet as a whole, as a whole rather than a sum of small parts.

In Conclusion

Biodynamic gardening is, at its core, a spiritual approach to gardening — one that is packed with esoteric and pseudoscientific elements that will not appeal to most gardeners. It’s also the earliest-ever organic agriculture movement, and it sparked many of the practices that have now become commonplace. As such, we can all draw inspiration from biodynamic gardening — taking what’s useful, and only trying the unique preparations out if we feel like it.

The post What is Biodynamic Gardening? Here’s All You Need To Know appeared first on GardenBeast.

In this gorgeous mid-summer weather, it is wonderful to admire the successful rows of plants you seeded in spring and just water and weed where necessary.

Over the years, I have learned some tricks to beat the colder nights of autumn and winter approaching and late in the winter, I try to gain a few extra weeks by sowing seeds earlier so they are ready to be planted outside, as soon as the last frost is gone in spring.

Everything depends on your available space, the light available for plants, the soil temperature, how well your plants can adapt to colder weather, and what you can do to cover them up.

You may need to move some plants into a more suitable, late autumn location so that they can continue to thrive and provide leaves, fruit, and flowers for you to enjoy. Here are 6 ideas so that you can extend your growing season a bit longer.

6 methods to help extend your growing season.

1. Know Your Weather

This is a very obvious first choice and it means simply keeping an eye on the weather forecast. If there is a heatwave, you need to water more. If a storm or thunderstorm is due, some plants will drink up the extra rain but you may want to protect more delicate ones like aubergines (eggplant in the US). Early on in the season, you may need frost protection like bubble wrap covers, cloches, or cardboard and the same goes for later on in the season.

Squash that is still producing flowers in September can go on to produce that fruit, provided no frost damage kills it off. Do not try to plant exotic plant seeds outdoors which are meant to grow in India or Brazil and expect the same results in your UK back garden. I always try one new exotic each year (with varying success) but my advice for new gardeners is to stick to seeds they know will grow well in their area.

2. How to Get More Heat: Cover and Wrap Plants!

• Buy a greenhouse or polytunnel. It depends on whether your winters tend to be harsh with cold winds, frost, and snow or whether you live in the sunny south of the UK where frost is not as frequent. You can protect wintering greenhouse plants by insulating the whole area with bubble wrap, to keep draughts out. Make sure you keep the door closed when frost is predicted. You can also use heated propagation mats to keep seeds at a steady temperature. These can be timed to come on at night time for a few hours or if the temperature drops below a certain temperature.
• In winter, warm up the soil in an outdoor area, where you will plant in spring by placing a layer of polythene, fleece, or even cardboard on the area. Allotments used to place old carpets down as cover but this has now been forbidden because many carpets contain poisonous substances, which can leak into your soil, and therefore your food. I use manure bags, compost bags, and any recycled clothes from home.
• I dig the patch over in the autumn first, and then add some homemade compost, and then lay the chosen cover.
• I cover this with comfrey leaves for my first crop of spring salads or peas. Just leave this weighed down with stones for the winter. When spring comes you can crumble the leaves directly into the soil to release their goodness.
• An added benefit is pest control because when you lift the cover, you will find a fantastic selection of slugs and snails which have used the cover all winter to evade the frost. Gather them all in a bucket in one go and feed them to the compost heap or the chicken coop!
• The ground underneath will be weed free and much warmer than the soil nearby. Perfect for early rows of lettuce and leafy vegetables!

• Use a cloche. These can be bought in garden centres or online or you can make one yourself. A cloche (pictured left) is usually a tunnel made from wire with fleece or polythene covering the tunnel to keep the heat in. Some gardeners use these to keep butterflies and moths away from cabbages and also to protect a new row of seeds from birds. I use them to keep a row of plants warmer for longer. On allotments, they have the dual purpose of keeping a particular plant warm in the cooler months and helping to promote early germination in spring. The word cloche comes from French and it refers to glass jars made to place over delicate plants. Nowadays we use washed-out milk or yogurt containers to do the same job but if you have an unlimited budget, look for some glass designs online. There are some beautiful designs!
• Cover up delicate trees: Some trees or delicate shrubs will benefit from frost protection in a very harsh winter. This is particularly important for almonds, apricots, and peach trees which tend to flower early. If a late frost comes, the whole crop may be ruined so use fleece or build some fences around the trunk to shade these shrubs from the worst of the weather. Drape blankets or fleeces, if snow is predicted.
• Protect plants on cold windowsills indoors. The coldest air from outside is next to your windowsills when you pull the curtains in the evening. To help keep that cold air out, place a piece of recycled bubble wrap around the pot and also next to the window to keep that cold away!
• Have you heard of hot beds and cold frames? These are ways to nourish and protect plants from harsh weather or to give them early protection in the spring. See more about hot beds and cold beds below in FAQs.

3. Know Your Growing Area

• Plan for the sunny areas. This is where you will place hungry feeders like peas and beans, sunflowers, squashes, and so on. You can heat up the ground by covering plots with fleece or cardboard after the last produce has been picked. In winter you can put a plant in a pot here to add some colour, then it is easy to remove this plant and the cover after the last frost has gone. Your new plants will get a head start, especially if you dig in some leaf mould, some manure, and some comfrey leaves to enrich the soil.
• Plan for the shady areas. Under protection from a fruit tree is often a shady spot where you will not find it easy for heavy feeders to grow. Plant mint and herbs that like shade and you cannot go wrong! Russian Tarragon is a great plant to self-seed in shady areas but do not plant sun lovers here. Remember that many Brassica plants (the Cabbage family – sprouts, cabbage, kale, etc) adore shade so when the leaves from autumn fill the ground, this is when your shady patch will come alive.
• Plan by season. Have you got a plant that dominates in one season but is not there in another?  When I know that my grape vines and my almond and cherry trees will cover the entire driveway in summer, I plan an early treat of flower bulbs and Honesty for a lovely spring display. Once they have finished, then I let the trees and the vine compete for light later. When the vine dies back completely in winter, then my snowdrops, grape hyacinths and cyclamen take over when the temperatures are cooler.

• Plan using a crop rotation system for your garden. If you want to keep your soil healthy it is not a good idea to keep growing the same crop on the same soil, as it depletes the area of the same nutrients. So if you have potatoes the first year, plant peas or beans the next year to add some nitrogen to the soil. Follow these up with cabbage family plants and finally, roots like carrots, parsnips, and swedes. Beans do not really tolerate frost whereas the cabbage plants are just fine with cold weather. In this way, plan for each area to have something to follow it so that you use the ground well and keep your soil healthy.

4. Get As Much Light as Possible for your Plants:

• Cut back overgrown shrubs, that keep the sun from getting to certain corners of the greenhouse and also those that shade your windowsills. It is really important to do this in the autumn, winter, or spring so that light can easily reach plants behind them or just close by.
• Big shrubs in the ground outside also benefit from pruning to keep them in shape and to make sure that plants underneath them have enough moisture and nutrients. The established shrubs have deeper roots than lettuce or herbs so to help these along, trim the branches and put them to dry for firewood or make them into mulch.
• Windowsill plants will love the extra light and will help your new seedlings to develop well.
• Place your greenhouse in the sunniest location. This is easy on paper, but in my garden, this meant either moving a gooseberry bush or trimming back a bay tree. If you and your family are sun worshippers, you can have seats dotted all over the garden to catch the sun but the greenhouse plants need steady sunlight, water, and nutrients and they can’t hop and move into the sun so make sure you give your greenhouse the sunniest location. You can always put a seat in there so the family can enjoy it too!
• Indoors, check that furniture is not shading indoor plants when you want as much sun as possible. Move it for the summer if it stops light getting in.
• Vertical gardeners or balcony growers can use mirrors and paint the wall black to attract more sun. This work really well if you paint a wall black behind a pallet shelf for example. The mirrors can also help to increase the feeling of space in a small terrace but be warned that increased heat in summer may need to water more.

5. Harden Off Plants Before Placing Them in Permanent Positions

This means that you allow greenhouse plants to get used to the weather outdoors by placing them out in the sun for a while each day as soon as it feels warm enough.

This means you can plant more delicate seeds like aubergines and courgettes earlier than in the soil, and use the greenhouse protection to have bigger plants ready earlier. This is the time of year when gardeners are keeping an eye out for blustery winds, frost, or anything that their new plants will not like.

All the plants need to go back indoors before Jack Frost visits though, so I usually have a table outside my greenhouse and move them out early in the morning and back in at sunset. It takes a while each day but the plants like being outdoors during the day and get used to it gradually.

6. Plant a Second Set of Seeds at the End of the Summer

When I first started my allotment, Mick a more experienced grower, told me to always plant more seeds in August. I remember looking at Mick blankly and thinking “But it’s nearly the end of the season?” He let me into a big secret.

In Kent, the frost may keep away until December and the squash plants will keep going but you can plant lettuce, rocket, parsley, and even beans in August so that you get a second run of greens by October and right up to the time when the frosts hit.

Obviously, if your frosts start in October, this is not necessarily good for your area but you can think about which seeds might survive indoors on a windowsill or in your greenhouse if you give them some protection in colder spells.

• Certain seeds are better planted in August because they do not bolt so easily. “Bolting” means the plant gets too hot and tries to flower and go to seed, like beautiful white basil flowers but lovely as they are, the whole plant then tries to go to seed and dies off.
• Herbs like Rocket are fabulous because they will grow outside and you can pick green leaves all winter. Garlic Mustard is another hardy green salad that I eat all year round. “Winter Density” is a Cos lettuce that performs really well in colder temperatures. Coriander has been another success story for me in my winter greenhouse and Winter Savoury is another delicate taste to add to salads in the cooler months. Placing a cloche over these late seeders will conserve nighttime warmth too to ensure germination takes place. You can remove the cloche if the weather is mild.
• Transfer less hardy plants like Basil into the greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill and try to keep them cooler, remove the flowers (you can eat basil flowers), and they last longer too.
• Tarragon and Lovage must be protected from frost and both tend to die back when the weather gets cool so just make sure their pots are protected indoors and plant them back outdoors when the weather gets warmer.
• Take cuttings from herbs before winter. This is just in case the frost kills any you have left outside. We all remember years of heavy snow and bitter cold and some herbs just give up in this weather. If you have taken cuttings, you can still enjoy them indoors and wait for spring to plant them in the soil the following spring.

What is the difference between a cold frame and a hot frame (or bed)?

A cold frame is a box with a removable (or adjustable lid), full of soil on a slope, usually close to a building that can provide some warmth. This could be a conservatory, a greenhouse, or a shed. Some gardeners use hay bales stacked to provide some insulation from the cold and then fill the inside with soil and add the lid.

The idea is that it provides new seeds a chance to grow in a warm, frost-free environment. The soil can be made from homemade compost, leaf mould, old plant pot soil, etc. You place your seeds in pots on top of the soil and as the weather improves, you can lift the lid and harden them off until the weather gets warmer.

The advantages are that you can start seeds a lot earlier than if they are in cold, wet soil and you can also protect them by covering them up at night or when frost or cold weather is forecast. The seedlings are usually in pots and then transplanted into the growing bed as soon as the danger of frost is gone.

A hot bed is a box similar to the cold frame but usually placed on top of a warm area, such as a large compost heap. If you have ever felt the top of a plastic composting bin, you will be surprised at how warm it is.

This is due to the rotting and decomposing of the material in the heap. Heat rises so the placing of a grow box on the top will mean these plants benefit from a really cosy atmosphere. Plants grown like this include melons (which are super fussy about heat) or aubergines, which adore the heat and being placed on top, they can greedily absorb every bit of available sunshine.

The hot bed has a lid too and you can lower or raise the lid to make the plant happy. In mid-summer, the heat continues to work and you can completely remove the lid if the temperature is stable.

Both hot beds and cold frames benefit from facing south, to make the best of available sunshine. Insulation can be provided in winter using straw, wood piles, old planks, recycled cloth, bubble wrap, or polythene to increase temperatures.

They need soil to slope for stability and to allow many plants access to the sun. Watering is essential too as the hot bed, in particular, can reach very high temperatures in summer. You can DIY either of them using your outdoor compost heap to provide heat and a free wall to build a cold frame.

They both offer the gardener the chance to both protect vulnerable plants in cold weather and boost growth before the plant can normally go directly into the soil.

Conclusion

Hopefully, by now you will have discovered a few ways to extend your growing season wherever you live. Cloches, greenhouses, and sunny windowsills offer protection to delicate plants and their cheerful scent indoors will fill your space too.

Hot beds and cold frames provide additional space and weeks in the growing calendar. Covering up delicate plants with fleece, cardboard, or carpet can save trees and shrubs that don’t enjoy the snowy weather.

Your greenhouse can have a dual function of protecting more delicate herbs and also allowing you to experiment with hardier herbs and salads that will happily grow throughout the year so that you can have salad all year round. Wrap up, keep warm and bring the delicate ones indoors. Winter does not have to be a gardener’s holiday!

Useful websites

• https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/greenhouses/cold-frames-for-spring-seedlings.htm
• https://agriculturistmusa.com/difference-between-hot-bed-and-cold-frame/#:~:text=1.,glass%2C%20Fiberglas%2C%20or%20plastic.

The post How to Extend The Growing Season: Greenhouses, Polytunnels & More Tips appeared first on GardenBeast.

I look upon my garden as a sanctuary; a place I visit every single day to pick something or just to enjoy the beautiful flowers. In my greenhouse, I have salads all year round but here I recommend some unusual salads and herbs even for winter vitamins and taste.

Everybody knows Lavender as a flower loved by bees, which also helps to ease muscle aches in a bath with lavender oil added and it is common knowledge that garlic has many benefits including lowering cholesterol.

However, many of my plants listed below can be used for medicinal purposes as well, and besides being beautiful to look at, some make excellent herb oils, infusions and dried herbs. These are loved by not only me but also a range of flying insects including bees, hoverflies, and butterflies.

In these tough economic times, read on to see if you can seed any of these in your garden or a balcony pot. They will give you some ideas on unusual tastes to plant for the summer this year!

Lovage (Levisticum officinale)

This herb is an old English cottage garden favourite that has somewhat fallen out of use in the recipe books but it has a delicious taste if added to fresh green salads. Historically, in traditional cottage garden medicine, it was used as a blood purifier and to ease kidney stones.

Current scientific testing reveals that it is a diuretic, an anti-inflammatory, and contains vitamins B and C. It also acts as an anti-histamine relieving itching. In the middle ages, it was used to ease menstrual pain too, as well as ease the symptoms of menopause so this is a must-have for your garden.

How to use Lovage:

• Eat the leaves raw or add a few to fried eggs, omelettes and soups.
• Make Lovage oil by adding fresh leaves to a carrier oil and leave for 3 weeks or so in a shady place, and then strain out the leaves. A few drops can be dropped onto cotton wool to ease itching.
• Make an infusion of fresh or dried leaves to help cope with period pain or night sweats, at either end of the menstrual cycle.
• Dry the leaves by placing them on a wire tray in a hot greenhouse (no moisture though!) or oven and use them to make infusions or dry in cooking.

How to look after Lovage:

The whole plant dies back naturally in the winter so don’t worry. Just dig up some of the roots and pot them on into a frost-free area and plant them back outside when spring arrives the following year. The piece you leave behind in the soil often survives the UK winter in the South East where I live but in frosty areas, you might want to add a mulch of leaves. In any case, it is safest to bring a piece of roots potted up in a pot indoors or into a warmer greenhouse so it does not get frostbitten. New leaves show again as the spring warms up the soil and after that, dig up the root and divide it into smaller sections to revive it.

Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petitolata)

Although it is regarded as invasive in parts of the US, here in the UK, this cheerful herb provides green foliage with a garlic taste, packed with goodness in the cold winter months. It is a biennial herb, meaning that it starts to grow from seed in year 1 and then flowers and goes to seed in year 2.

In the spring of its second year, it rewards you with a tall plant topped with bunches of dainty, white flowers, which will go to seed if you don’t prune them.

You can eat the leaves fresh in salads or sandwiches, or cooked lightly like spinach and the roots make an excellent sauce (similar to horseradish without the bite). So you can have Garlic Mustard pesto and Wasabi root sauce all in this one plant!

What to use it for:

• As food. Nutritionally the leaves are full of vitamins A, several of the Bs, C and E as well as many vital trace nutrients including calcium, copper, iron, manganese, potassium and selenium so these leaves pack a punch!
• In the past Garlic Mustard leaves were applied directly to ulcers on legs, bruises and wounds because its antiseptic leaves were known to speed healing.
• If the whole plant is boiled, it makes a yellow dye which can be used as a natural dye to colour fabric.
• A word of caution! If fed to either animals or chickens (even if they love it!) the meat or the eggs may taste a little strange, taking on the garlic flavour of this herb so keep it away from egg layers unless you fancy garlic eggs.

How to look after Garlic Mustard:

This plant can be prevented from spreading far and wide f you know about its growing cycle. Always have a year 1 plant growing and then allow just 1 or 2 plants to go to seed in year 2; otherwise, it will self-seed all over your garden. That’s not bad if you like the taste but for some, it is an invasive weed and in the US they hold regular let’s dig up the garlic mustard field trips! Save a few plants and let them go to seed but remove the rest. They are easily pulled from the ground in spring, roots and all. Make pesto with whatever you pull and introduce friends to the taste.

Borage (Borago officinalis)

This flower is one of the bees’ favourites in my garden and what I love about it is the amazing vibrant, blue colour of the flowers when they arrive in Spring. They have a really unusual star-shaped, pink, cross on the reverse of the electric blue flowers but where I saw it first is what makes it so fabulous for me.

I was at Chelsea Flower Show my first time and I ordered some Pimm’s. Decorating the top of my drink were several blue flowers of Borage. That’s right! This flower adored by pollinators is also edible for humans and can be made into a cocktail flower for Pimm’s, champagne, or even a wedding toast.

These edible flowers are loved by bees. So this one is included for this reason alone and the bees will thank you for allowing this one to grow.

How to use it:

• Add the flowers to drinks for children’s parties and celebratory events for adults.
• Add flowers to salads and desserts or as cake decorations.
• Borage flowers are prescribed by herbalists as a mild sedative, for depression and to lower fevers. Historically they were used for “blood purification” which nowadays is due to adrenal insufficiency.
• If you know somebody with a beehive, introduce your borage flower bed to the bees. It gives the honey a particular flavour so make Borage honey!

How to look after Borage:

Sow seeds in rich soil initially but set up a net to contain them if you do not want the plant to spread everywhere. This plant rarely needs to be grown again if you plant one because they spread like crazy all over the garden.

The shrub can grow quite wide and may need to be moved after a time due to the size. If you are adding some flowers to drinks, then that’s fine but if you want to contain it, then use a net fence and prune the flower heads before they go to seed. Dig up any extra offsets and give them as presents. The bees will love the extra pollen.

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)

The leaves of this plant have a peculiar taste, which is not to everybody’s liking. It smells somewhat like camphor but its medicinal effect used to be described as one to lower a fever, hence the name. However, it is also known to reduce the likelihood and severity of migraine so this plant is a must for anybody who suffers from blinding headaches.

How to use it:

• Use the leaves by chewing a few every day, if you like the taste. The effect over a continuous period of time is to reduce the likelihood of migraines and I have several friends who swear by this!
• If you don’t like the taste, then dry some leaves and use these as an infusion if a headache happens. Rest for a few hours and it usually relieves any fever and also the headache.
• The plant was used against pain from rheumatism by eating leaves or making a tonic of leaves infused in oil and taken now and then.
• Although we do not have a tradition of using Feverfew in cooking, Adele Nozedar in “The Hedgerow handbook” has a recipe for feverfew cake which she discovered in Italy. She uses a handful of leaves added to the cake mixture.
• Add the flowers to bouquets in summer vases to promote that smell in the house, particularly if you tend to get migraines.

How to look after Feverfew:

Buy seeds from a reputable seed grower or ask a friend who has plants to donate one. They are not difficult to grow and once established, you need to make sure they stay in the area you want them to. They are hardy in the UK except in Scotland and high, mountainous areas so bring it indoors if you live in a colder area just to make sure.

Passionflower (Passiflora caerulea)

If you recognise this flower, it is what becomes a passion fruit, and it climbs many garden trellises in Europe. The flower was used by Spanish monks to discuss the passion of Christ because parts of the flower were said to resemble the crown of thorns, the 12 apostles and so on. For late autumn fruit, it is delicious and you can pick it direct from the plant so no carbon miles to worry about!

What is it used for:

• In health food shops, passionflower extracts are used to aid insomnia or anxiety connected with sleeping disorders. It is also prescribed by herbalists for menopausal symptoms like hot flushes and nighttime sweating.
• Historical use records its use when applied topically to the skin for burns. It is also reputed to hydrate the skin because it contains lycopene, which moisturises dry skin and heals skin wounds.
• Passionflowers can be made into infusions.
• Take 10 drops per day with a cup of water in Passionflower tincture or as prescribed by your herbalist.
• Passionflower seed oil is full of omega 6 linoleic acid which can ease acne skin issues.
• High blood pressure (hypertension) is said to be reduced by the use of Passionflower but be very careful if you are on prescribed medication as Passionflower can interact with other medication and your blood pressure can drop dangerously low. Make sure you tell your herbalist about any prescription drugs you take when they are prescribing any medication.

How to look after Passionflower:

Passionflower is a climber and it wraps itself around any other plant nearby and grows very tall indeed. If you want to grow it in a pot make sure it is large and sold and maybe weighed down with some stones because some plants grow as tall as 5-6 (16-20 feet). Give it full sun and water it well in dry weather. Make sure you provide some support for it to climb.

Watercress (Nasturtium officinale)

This herb is found in ponds but if you are lucky enough to be able to find fresh watercress, you are in for another unique salad ingredient that is packed with goodness! The plants are gorgeous in water; they spread far and their white roots trail through the water and eventually their white flowers form. It is best to pick leaves often or this herb may spread all over the pond but it filters the pond and keeps it safe for fish as well as providing you with food. In the US it is considered a weed but here in my poly-tunnel pond, it grows well right through the winter.

These leaves are full of vitamins A, and C and this is a vegetable which can survive many parts of the winter in the UK so for me, it is a constant salad. We always use fresh watercress for Christmas lunch as a salad base for prawn cocktail or fried cheese or egg starters.

What it is used for:

• Eating, first of all! Watercress salad and watercress soup are UK favourites and I adore it on top of scrambled eggs too.
• Studies show that regular consumption may lower blood cholesterol and there are current studies examining its effect on keeping your heart healthy too.

How to look after watercress:

Plant seeds in pots of compost and allow the roots to develop, then place them directly in the water in a pond or stream. You may want to contain it from running away if it is in a moving stream by placing it in a large wire basket.

When it flowers, collect the seed heads and start again. In an established pond or stream, this is rarely necessary as Mother Nature spreads the seeds to start again.

Wild rocket (Diplotaxis tenuifolia)

This is an attractive shrub in any garden, with a tall stem up to 2 feet (60 cm) when it flowers. The leaves are pretty with a scalloped edging and they grow well in areas without regular watering. They are also hardy so this plant deserves a place in your garden. The leaves contain vitamins A, C, and K as well as plentiful supplies of calcium, potassium and some iron. The peppery, unique taste is fantastic to add a zing when added to your salads.

It is believed to detoxify the liver and the spleen due to its high levels of antioxidants and traditionally, it was also used to reduce swelling and to clean wounds. It has gorgeous flowers too – in shades from creamy to yellow-coloured bunches of 4 petalled, cross-shaped flower heads, which bees adore in late Spring.

These flower heads turn into seed heads that you can save as seeds to grow on all summer long. In Kent, I sow a patch in late August on my allotment and also in the greenhouse and it grows happily providing me with fresh greens right throughout the winter.

How to use it:

• Add fresh leaves to salads all year long. This is a hardy herb.
• Use ointment made from the leaves on swelling and also for wound cleaning.
• The herb is said to help prevent constipation, and aid the management of diabetes and it is said to be an excellent cough medicine.

How to look after Wild Rocket:

Collect the seed heads when they form and plant them again either directly into the soil or compost. Give it rich deep soil in the sunshine for the best leaves. Keep it damp for germination and after that, just allow it to grow and water it occasionally. The leaves can be picked as soon as there are at least 6-8 leaves but never pick the whole plant or it will die. It may need a stake as it grows taller or it will happily lean against other taller plants.

It has a very long deep root, which you can see if you dig one up after the plant dies and with this, Wild Rocket can extract nutrients from deep in the soil. When the seed heads form, they tend to self-seed so if you want to confine them to one part of your garden, collect the pointed seed heads when they turn brown and save them for when you want to plant them.

Conclusion

Many of the plants we grow in our gardens were also used to treat medical ailments historically. This list of my 7 favorites could have included many more but hopefully, it has given you some ideas for plants that may be used for any medical problems you have.

Your local health food shop can show you the supplements, teas, and tinctures available so use this as research for what to plant in your garden. If you have any fantastic medical plants we have not mentioned, do let us know. Enjoy the journey!

Useful websites

• https://www.verywellhealth.com/lovage-benefits-side-effects-dosage-and-interactions-4686373
• https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/herbs/lovage/what-to-do-with-lovage-plants.htm#:~:text=Lovage%20is%20probably%20best%20known,and%20as%20a%20blood%20purifier
• https://www.healthbenefitstimes.com/garlic-mustard/amp/
• Watercress: Health Benefits, Nutrients per Serving, Preparation Information, and More (webmd.com) .
• https://wellbii.online/8-health-benefits-of-wild-rocket-leaves/

The post Medicinal & Healthy Edible Plants to Grow at Home: Top Picks & Growing Tips appeared first on GardenBeast.

Food forests, also known as food gardens, are man-made forests created through the diversified planting of edible plants that aims to replicate natural ecosystems and patterns. This practice is called permaculture and has gained plenty of notoriety in the past few decades, despite being around since old times.

By researching the forests of the world, experts have discovered that each thriving forest ecosystem has at least seven layers, with some tropical forests having more. In order to thrive, food forests also need to follow the same principle, developing the perfect ecosystem for all flora residing there. To achieve this, think of food forests as 3D designs, with life flourishing in all directions: upwards, downwards, and outwards.

For anyone willing to put in the effort, growing a food forest holds an abundance of benefits, including fresh, organically grown fruits and vegetables at your disposal and being able to do tremendous good for the environment.

This guide aims to teach you a few interesting things about food forests, why gardeners should consider them, as well as how to grow your own without needing acres and acres of land. Keep on reading and prepare your gardening supplies!

Growing a food forest. Why?

Forests exist as this perfect ecosystem: lush, plentiful areas of unspoiled wilderness filled with life, rich in biodiversity, and breathtaking to observe. Trees, shrubs, and small plants entwined, occupying every available area, but somehow never overcrowded – the very essence of life.

Forests can survive on their own. There is no need for mowing or weeding, nor do they need pesticides, fertilizers, or other harmful chemicals. They somehow seem to do a fantastic job without needing an ounce of our help. Now, what if you could achieve this perfect balance with edible plants? This is, in essence, what food forests can do with proper design.

For tens of thousands of years, nature has fulfilled our most basic needs. As we evolved and grew in number, however, modern agriculture seemed like a more effective approach to producing all the food we need for sustenance. However, the consequences may have been more concerning than we thought.

Agricultural fields are constantly reused, which means the soil will eventually lose part of its beneficial properties and become unable to feed the crops we continue to plant. And, because there is no ecosystem in place, pests can’t be kept at a distance effectively either. To compensate for this, farmers need to add fertilizers, pesticides and other chemicals that will, in time, affect soil quality. With food forests, these concerns no longer exist.

Food forests are ecosystems able to thrive on their own, without the help of human hands. Each of the seven layers (which we will discuss in the following paragraphs) has its well-defined purpose which can be, for example, to shade the area, cover the ground to protect it, balance the soil, or attract pollinators.

The benefits of creating this ecosystem are plenty. Here are some examples:

• High productivity. While some people believe you need a lot of space to create a food forest, the reality is very different. With permaculture, you can grow up to 300 species of plants on just 1/4 acres of land, because every bit of the space will be properly utilized.
• Natural reactions. Similar to traditional forests, food forests are able to self-mulch and retain moisture inside the soil. At the same time, fallen leaves and fruits that cover the ground will attract decomposers (a class of insects), which will break down the organic matter and create natural fertilizers.
• Pest control. Food forests will attract and shelter natural predators, such as birds and good insects (native bees, ladybugs, butterflies), which will naturally eliminate pests. All you need to do is provide flowers that are rich in nectar and these friendly garden helpers will come in no time.
• Natural synergy. In nature, plants don’t grow neatly arranged in rows. Instead, they mix to create a natural synergy that allows them to live longer and healthier. They help and protect one another, keeping pests and diseases at bay.
• Soil repair. Most plants are perennial so you will not have to till, dig, or disturb the soil periodically. If the soil is left to its own devices, its natural structure is preserved. Soil is a complex and intricate system that supports an array of important life forms some are tiny – bacteria, fungi, and some are easy to observe – insects, and earthworms, and even small mammals. When plants die off, they don’t magically disappear from nature. Instead, they rot in time, provide food and shelter, and their roots creating channels for air and water to flow through the soil.

To reap all these benefits, of course, you need to understand some rules that have been carefully researched by observing the best gardener at its work: Mother Nature. To do so, you will need proper planning and a solid understanding of your surroundings.

Understanding your surroundings

Understanding how forests grow and sustain themselves without human interference allows us to learn from Nature and model our own forests, which will be filled with trees and plants that generate food for us to consume.

This way, we have the ability to design and build the most sustainable food production system, honed, improved, and cared for by Mother Nature herself.

To begin, you will need to understand your land. Whether you already have a site or plan on purchasing one, you will need to start asking a lot of questions and taking notes.

While the right piece of land can make a big difference, don’t stress too much about perfect soil quality. There are plenty of natural ways to upgrade it using mulch or soil mixtures.

Once you are settled on the land, start gathering as much information as you can about the surroundings. Ideally, your research should be able to answer the following questions:

• What type of plants grows best around there?
• What are the temperatures and how does the weather behave?
• Are there any type of nasty pests to be concerned about?
• How is the feral animal situation?

Knowing all these aspects will help you plan for and develop a thriving forest that is able to sustain itself. However, don’t rush to start planting just yet.

Take some time to observe the land and draw your own conclusions on aspects such as wildlife, shade, rain, and sun – between a few months and a year should be enough to form an informed opinion.

If planting an entire forest sounds overwhelming, these questions can also help you identify some native trees that thrive in the area.

Why native? Because the pollinators here are used to them and will be instantly attracted to your forest. Plant some of these and gradually build around them.

Whichever way you choose to proceed, arm yourself with a lot of patience. Food forests take years to develop so there won’t be much room for instant gratification here.

Level up – The 7 layers of a thriving food forest

Permaculture pioneers and experts following them have studied nature and determined forests develop their ecosystems in at least 7 layers. Following nature’s example, food forests also need these levels in order to thrive. When you will start working on your list of fruits and vegetables, make sure you tackle all of these layers to fulfil your forest’s needs.

1. The canopy layer – big native, fruit, or nut trees.

The first layer is your food forest’s greatest encompassing layer – a cupola. It is made up of trees that reach a height of at least 9 meters (30 feet). It can contain bigger nut tree species such as walnut, nitrogen fixers such as locust trees,  or non-edible wood species such as oak and pine.

Based on the scale of your food forest, you may not be able to plant trees that grow too large, so consider this aspect before making your choice.

2. The understory layer – smaller trees

When completely grown, trees in the understory layer reach heights of 3 to 9 meters (10 to 30 ft).

Fruit trees such as apple, pear, cherry, and apricot are typically found in this food forest stratum. If bigger trees are not practicable, these trees will serve as the forest’s canopy layer.

3. The shrub layer – bushes, currants, and shrubs

Shrubs are known as perennial plants which grow bigger than most herbaceous crops but not as tall as trees.

These plants can grow to be 3 meters (10 feet) tall. You can choose from blueberries, raspberries, currants, and almost any other type of fruit shrub. This stratum also includes smaller nut species, in addition to therapeutic herbs such as elderberry, witch hazel, rose, and hawthorn.

4. The herbaceous layer – herbs, beets, and comfreys

While trees and shrubs lose their leaves during the winter season and keep their branches and general structure intact, plants in the herbaceous layer and the layers below will die in the winter and then regrow in the spring. This happens because they lack the strong woody stems their more established forest friends have.

Asparagus, garlic, kale, rhubarb, and horseradish are all edible plants that can be added to the herbaceous layer. Actually, you will discover most of the veggies you’d expect to see in a home garden can be added to this layer.

Many culinary herbs, such as basil, parsley, cilantro, and thyme, grow in the herbaceous layer as well, and so do plants such as chamomile, echinacea, and valerian.

5. The ground-cover layer – plants that spread horizontally

Plants in this layer grow closer to the ground than those in the herbaceous layer. They are more shade tolerant and fill in any gaps where herbaceous plants have not yet established themselves.

Ground cover plants may also withstand being trampled on, which makes them an excellent cover for bare pathways in your food forest. Plants in this layer also serve as a living mulch, keeping weeds away. Some options for this layer include spearmint, thyme, wintergreen, creeping rosemary, strawberries, and oregano.

6. The underground layer – bulbs and edible roots

Any plant that produces a root crop is typically considered to be part of the subterranean layer. But as you will notice, these plants do not only grow underground. This sometimes causes a lot of overlap with plants in the herbaceous and ground-cover layers.

Examples of plants suited for the underground layer include onion, garlic, leeks, scallions, and the Jerusalem artichoke – a hardy North American plant that produces edible tubes underground and little sunflower-like blossoms above, attracting pollinators.

Some flower species, such as dahlia or lily, are also found in the subterranean layer, and so are medicinal plants such as ginger and ginseng.

7. The vertical layer – vines and climbers

This stratum of the food forest comprises any climbing and vining plants. Consider this layer to be a ladder that connects all the previous layers, as vining plants may grow from the ground layer all the way to the crowns of your highest trees.

These plants provide another layer of production to any food forest since they utilize the current higher layers as support. Just be careful not to choose species that can suffocate other plants.

Grapes are the most popular choice for a vining plant, but beans, tomatoes and cucumbers make for some pretty great climbers as well. If you happen to live in a warm climate, kiwi and passion fruit can be a great addition to this layer.

Each forest is unique, so you may need to adapt some of these layers to the conditions of your land. Some growers choose to eliminate the canopy layer to save space, while others may choose to plant fewer understory trees.

Whichever way you choose to design your layout, make sure you understand the role of each layer and make adjustments in a way that does not affect the ecosystem you are trying to build.

Building the food forest, step by step

Now that you have a clear idea of which plants do and don’t work in your area and the layers which comprise a food forest, it’s time to get the actual work done.

Unless you were magically handed over a bare field, you will most likely already have some plants growing on your land. Do a thorough inspection and clear any unwanted weeds or vegetation but don’t throw it away. Instead, use it to make compost and mulch, which will help improve the soil.

Next, you will need to decide on the actual product you want to harvest. After all, the main purpose of this forest is to provide you and your family with food, so plan(t) accordingly. Of course, take into consideration all you have learned by now when making your selection. Your family may be massive pineapple lovers, but a Minnesota food forest may not be the best-suited place to grow it.

When you do the plant selection, your goal is to create polycultures that support each other and grow together. While creating random mixtures can work in some cases, it’s best that you create a habitat based on what you know works together. Keep in mind the 7 layers mentioned above and choose suitable options to cover all.

Make sure you properly plan the spacing as well. You want trees to gently touch crowns when they mature, but you should avoid planting them too close to each other. This may work well for shrubs and hedges, but limits growth when it comes to trees.

Before you begin planting, take care of the infrastructure. This means fences, a potential cabin, an access point, paths and roads, as well as room for water tanks. Choose the right spots for all of these and stick to that layout, because once your forest starts growing you don’t want to disturb it by constantly building or adding artificial elements.

Food forests should develop naturally, but that does not stop you from aiding yours a bit. You can create a pond, create a sitting area for when you come visiting, or even plan on adding rabbit hutches and a few bird feeders to invite wildlife in.

Bottom line

The layers of a food forest aim to emulate the structure of a real forest seen in the wild. The key distinction is that they have been altered to accommodate plants that are valuable to humans, with an emphasis on edible and medicinal plants.

Each layer of a food forest serves a vital purpose. When creating your own food forest, be sure to include species from each stratum. This will result in the most resilient and self-sustaining food forest.

Keep in mind that it takes time to plan, plant, cultivate, and build permaculture food forests. And, while you may want to finish yours in a single season, you are probably better off letting each layer of the food forest establish itself for a season or two before adding the next one, especially if you are planting a big food forest area.

However, given enough time, your food forest will provide you with enough food to last for many years. While a food forest is not a fast remedy, it is a long-term investment with several benefits!

Are you growing a food forest? Share your journey with us in the comment section!

The post What Is A Food Forest? Here’s All You Need to Know appeared first on GardenBeast.

A lush garden filled with beautiful plants is really a feast for the eyes – and when those plants are edible, it’s a feast for your belly, too!

People have been growing edible plants since the dawn of time, but over time, society has kind of drifted away from growing their own food, thanks, in large, to the shift in mass-produced food. However, in recent years, many people are turning back to their roots and have taken a serious interest in planting edible gardens again; in fact, it’s become homegrown food has become so widely popular again that the process of growing edible plants has been given a trendy name: “foodscaping”!

It’s really quite clever, actually, as it perfectly describes exactly what it is – landscaping that is centered on plants that aren’t just aesthetically pleasing, but that are edible, too!

If you are interested in starting your own foodscape and you’re just starting to gather information, you’ve come to the right place! Doing your due diligence and researching before you just grab a bunch of seeds, toss them into the ground, and hope for the best, is certainly wise. In this guide, you’ll find an overview of some of the best plants for foodscaping; that is, plants that are aesthetically pleasing, delicious, and nutritious!

What is Foodscaping?

The term “foodscaping” or “Edible Landscaping” is just what it sounds like: incorporating edible plants into your landscaping. However, unlike a traditional fruit and veggie gardens, foodscaping combines both ornamental and edible plants into one space, such as a flower bed or a raised garden.

Just like traditional landscaping, there aren’t any limitations when it comes to foodscaping. You can grow gardens in an shape, size, and style, and you can incorporate any and all types of plants that you see fit, so long as you’re combining both edible and ornamental plants in the space. You don’t need a lot of room to grow a fabulous foodscape, either, and you don’t need to start a new garden bed (unless, of course, you want to); you can simply transform your existing gardens into foodscapes.

What are the Benefits of Foodscaping?

So, what are the benefits of foodscaping? We’re glad you asked! There are actually several benefits, and here are just a few:

• Growing your own food is truly rewarding. There’s nothing better than going out to your garden, grabbing a few fruits, veggies, and herbs, and enjoying their delightful taste and wholesome goodness; and the best part is, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing that you grew that deliciousness!
• In a world where things are so crazy and times are so uncertain (if you’ve been paying attention even just a little, there’s no doubt that you’ve heard about the impending food shortages that have been predicted around the world), knowing that you will have easy access to food that can feed yourself and your family is very reassuring.
• Homegrown food is a whole lot healthier than store-bought. Mass-produced, processed foods are loaded with dye, chemicals, allergens, and ingredients that you can’t pronounce (just look at the back of the box!). Even if you stick to the organic food section, that doesn’t mean it’s healthy. What, with Big Ag (agriculture) producing genetically-modified foods that are treated with toxic pesticides and fertilizers (glyphosate, anyone?), eating store-bought food can be pretty disconcerting. When you grow your edible plants, you’ll have peace of mind knowing exactly where your food came from, how it was grown, how it was harvested, and how it was prepared. Nothing is more important than your health, and good health starts with what you eat.
• It’s more cost-effective. There’s no doubt you’ve noticed that the price of food is increasing at a rapid rate. Each time you go to the grocery store, your bill is bigger and bigger, even though you aren’t buying any more or anything out of the ordinary; in fact, you may be getting less than you normally do! Growing your own food can save translate to pretty significant savings. Sure, you need to purchase the seeds and supplies, but when you compare the overall cost, it’s much more cost-effective than a trip to the food store.
• It’s just fun and exciting! Foodscaping adds unexpected interest to your gardens. Not only does it enhance your home’s curb appeal, but the addition of edible plants add an unexpected dimension that just adds to the fun and makes gardening a lot more exciting.

Foodscaping Tips

So, now that you know some of the benefits of foodscaping (those are just some of the advantages; there are a whole lot more!), you’re really excited and you can’t wait to get your hands into the ground – and even more, you can’t wait to sink your teeth into the delectable goodies that you’ve grown in your own garden!

Before you get started, however, here some handy tips to keep in mind that will help to make the experience more enjoyable – and more successful.

Make a Plan

First thing’s first: you need to make a plan. Take some time to do some research and to visualize your goals. Choose an area for your foodscaped garden to figure out how much space you have to work with, what you’ll be able to fit into the space, and examine what kind of lighting the space receives. It may be helpful to sketch out a draft of a garden, complete with measurements. Doing so will make it easier to visualize your foodscaped garden.

Choose Your Plants

Check out the hardiness zone in your area. Once you know that, you can then select plants to include in your garden. Don’t just choose edible plants that are visually appealing; make sure that you choose plants that you’ll actually eat! After all, that’s the entire point of growing your own edible plants!

To help you determine which plants do include into your garden, think about the foods that you eat on a regular basis. Write down a list of your favorite types of fruits, veggies, and herbs. After you’ve formulated your list, take the time to research each of the plants so that you can determine which ones will work best in your garden. Choose varieties that will thrive in your area, otherwise, your efforts will be for naught; for instance, if you love artichokes, but you live in a the Pacific Northwest, where the climate is really wet and humid, they aren’t going to thrive.

We strongly recommend getting a little adventurous. Incorporate one or two fruits or veggies that you don’t eat on a regular basis and that will thrive in your location; you might be more inclined to try those foods again – and to really enjoy them – when you’ve grown those plants yourself!

Prep Your Soil

In order to have a successful foodscape, you need to have healthy soil. Invest the time in prepping your soil to ensure that it’s healthy and ready to accept, support, and nourish your plantings. Spend some time researching the soil and nutritional requirements for the plants that you’re going to be incorporating into your garden, and make any necessary amendments (always opt for GMO-free and natural options when you’re amending your soil).

The Best Edible Plants

Now that we’ve reviewed some important tidbits of information, let’s get to the good part: a list of some of the best edible plants. While there are so many different types of fruits, veggies, and herbs that would be a wonderful addition to a foodscape, the following are just some of our favorites.

Artichokes

If you’re a lover of artichokes or you’ve always wanted to try them, consider incorporating them in your foodscape. Artichokes aren’t just healthful and delicious; they’re simply stunning! The grow vertically, and can reach as high as 6 feet tall! Large flower buds appear on their thick stems, and it’s these buds that you eat. The buds have large, thick leaves, and they have a purplish, greenish color. If you don’t harvest them, they’ll turn into stunning purple flowers; however, we strongly recommend picking at least some to consume!

Creeping Thyme

Thyme is a versatile aromatic and flavorful herb that adds wonderful taste to so many dishes. Creeping thyme is also quite stunning, making it a great choice for your foodscape. It grows low to the ground, creating dense clumps of ground cover that produces purplish, pinkish, and whitish flowers that will completely cover the soil. Pick the leaves and dry them out to use as seasoning in your foods, or to create your own home-grown herbal tea!

Dandelion

Unfortunately, dandelions have been treated rather harshly, and that treatment has been really unfair – and unnecessary! These sunny yellow flowers are said to be weeds, but in reality, they’re edible and they offer a wealth of health benefits. It’s jam-packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and nutrients, as well as soluble fiber, and it really can do wonders for your overall health and well-being. Plus, dandelion has a delightful taste earthy flavor; it’s delightful in a salad, it can be ground up into a pesto, or the leaves can be dried and turned into tea.

Eggplants

Eggplants are a delightful veggie. They’re hardy, fairly easy to grow, backed with healthy goodness, and are super delicious. Their dark purple color and unique shape will lend unique beauty to your garden, too. There are different varieties of eggplants, and they all look wonderful when paired with several different types of ornamental flowers and shrubs.

Ornamental Peppers

From sweet to spicy – and even four-alarm fire – there are so many different types of peppers that would make wonderful additions to your foodscape. The fruits can vary in shape, size, and color, and depend on the variety that you’re planting; some are bright red, others are sunny yellow, and there are even stunning purple and pink varieties! NuMex Centennial, Medusa, Chilly Chili, Poblano, Tangerine Dream – and of course, the good old Bell Pepper; there really is no shortage of options to choose!

Summer Squash

If we could only use one word to describe summer squash, it would be “prolific”. While it’s true that they can take up a good bit of room, a single summer squash will provide you with a sizable harvest that will not only feed your family, but that you can share with friends and neighbors, too. The yellow and green veggies that they produce will a fresh and unique look to your garden; what’s more, they are so versatile in the kitchen and can be used in a wide array of dishes. Stuffed, baked, and even turned into noodles, there’s no doubt that you’ll love having summer squash in your garden!

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